CK5
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I'm sure the head was at least worn enough to need a 14mm socket to get them out...rusted in place, they came out tough....they are a fine thread, haven't checked the tpi gauge to them yet though. Its no biggie, but I need to get some new ones.
 
My kids blazer was 14mm on the stops too, I thought it was ODD being gm and from 72.

Maidens coming along dave:waytogo:
 
The bolts measure 3/8 x 24tpi....I guess maybe the bolt heads had been beat on a few times, and needed a 14mm to get a grip on them.

Got my lines made up tonight, ram is mounted, new caps are on the box, I'll throw the cooler back on the lines to do a test run tomorrow.

Bought a steering box gasket/seal kit from Autozone to get the top cover gasket, and the front cap Oring and metal cap retainer ring.

A few pics coming tonight...
 
The pics of the hydro assist installed...should have plenty of line for the axle to drop.

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HPIM3765 (800x600).jpg

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been rethinking what I need to get done to be sure and make it to the dunes on the 4th....the re-prioritized list:


Prep and paint beadlocks...Done
trim inserts and mount tires...on hold
Remove front fenders...Done
Remove radiator support...Done
Hydro assist...Done
Repair transfer case leak
Remove radiator and mod for clearance of fan motor...Done
Gas tank filler tube
Gas tank fuel shutoff valve
Front axle limit straps
Torque front suspension
Install radiator support/radiator/coolers...Done
Pass head v/c bolt repair/PCV line repair...Done
Add 1-2 leaves to rear springs
Torque rear suspension
Drivetrain venting
Check/secure flexible brake lines
Skid plates fitment
Front fender mods, inner fenderwells
Fan relays
Hood pins
Hood hinges...Done
Paint front fenders/hood/tailgate/bumpers
Paint Tube doors
Tube grille/light mounting/bezels/moldings

everything up to this point is Gotta get done....



from here down is time permitting:

Carb tuning
Ignition tuning
Assemble beadlocks
Trans temp guage port in trans pan
Front hub wheel studs
Check/modify front seat height
Disassemble body for paint
Refinish safari top
Organize/secure mtg. rear storage area
Interior bedliner
Winch mounting
Spare tire mounting
Front driving light mounting
Neutral safety switch
Dome lights
Dash cluster organization
Switches wiring
Rear lights
Defroster/heater fan operation
Rewire breakers relays
Assemble body

One more thing checked off the list before Silver Lake!
 
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With the end of the ram disconnected from the tie rod, I cycled the ram today, but it would only will turn left (extend the ram piston out)...is this because the air isn't worked out of the cylinder yet?...I then hooked it up to the tie rod, I ran the engine a few minutes is all, as no radiator right now, so it got warm pretty quick, and I shut it off.
Tires are off the floor also. I just went slowly back and forth to remove air, probably 10 times with the cylinder hooked up, kept the level up on the reservoir, perhaps a little too much as there were some bubbles, and it foamed out the reservoir when I shut it off?
It did operate relatively smoothly as I went side to side...a slight stiffness which wasn't there without the ram hooked up to the tierod....I believe it is the cylinder seals causing a slight drag. I think its only noticeable because there is no weight on the tires right now.

So, does this all sound normal, is there something else I need to do, or put it back together and drive it?
 
With the end of the ram disconnected from the tie rod, I cycled the ram today, but it would only will turn left (extend the ram piston out)...is this because the air isn't worked out of the cylinder yet?...I then hooked it up to the tie rod, I ran the engine a few minutes is all, as no radiator right now, so it got warm pretty quick, and I shut it off.
Tires are off the floor also. I just went slowly back and forth to remove air, probably 10 times with the cylinder hooked up, kept the level up on the reservoir, perhaps a little too much as there were some bubbles, and it foamed out the reservoir when I shut it off?
It did operate relatively smoothly as I went side to side...a slight stiffness which wasn't there without the ram hooked up to the tierod....I believe it is the cylinder seals causing a slight drag. I think its only noticeable because there is no weight on the tires right now.

So, does this all sound normal, is there something else I need to do, or put it back together and drive it?

You need to hook up the radiator, you will need to do more bleeding, if you see bubbles and or foaming it means you still have air in the system.
Refer to NorCal Chris's thread about how it took him so much to finally get it purged, and what he had to do, als what was happening before all the air was out, you don't want to drive it that way.
 
You need to purge the air out of it with the tires off the ground and the motor not running first. Go to PSC web site and look up the instruction on how to bleed the system under technical. I will get you a link when I get home if you cann't find it.
 
This mac can be as bad as my iPhone with auto correction. :doah:

Glad I could help.
 
Dave I wouldn't run the engine very long at all without a radiator. Without the water flow evening the temps out you can get hot spots that get extremely hot even before the engine is completely warm. You're probably fine, just giving you a heads up that just because the engine isn't too hot doesn't mean parts of it aren't without any coolant.
 
thanks Dustin....don't know if you were witness to it, but I was crawling along on the roads about 20mph the last couple days in Moab...Kert kept telling me to power through it....I didn't have the balls to step on the gas...I hit the brakes and pulled over. the last run we did was Potato Salad (I didn't get up that one either...carb and driver issues) but we aired down to 12# and it drove home much better than with #20 in them. I'm hoping this will take away the deathwobble all together!
 
Radiator and front support back in today...made some more clearance between the Windstar fan motor and the tensioner pulley....seems they like to make a little contact, so now I got about 1/2" between them by cutting down the windstar shroud, and fitting it tightly to the radiator.

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Also picked up a spare set of 781 castings today for 150 frogskins...

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Thats funny, I had to do the exact same thing to my windstar shround to make enough clearance. I see you got the version with the flat connector too. There is another year that has the connector that sticks straight out, and that version probably wouldn't work too well for us I don't think.

As for the heads, those look like they are in really good shape, nice deal! Now sell them and buy some aluminum heads...:waytogo:
 
I got that fan set from Jess...hooked me up quite right!

Getting them wired back up this weekend...had some sh!tty Derale relay sets...one melted a fuse in the holder without blowing the fuse. And why did they send a 30a fuse with a 25a relay? When we got to Moab last year, Kert put 30a relays on and the fan issue was solved for the time being. Now when I turn on the power to them they run all the time regardless of what the temp switch is saying...perhaps a bad temp sender to the relays?
I got an electrical buddy coming over Sat to help me sort it out.
But today I got the Hydro Assist bleeding procedure done, and seems to be working good with the little tires on it...I hope it goes down the road without death wobble now.
 
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