I'll ask my buddy to get me his info.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
No problem man.
Might be a few though, remind me if you haven't heard from me on this in a while. Neither of us is known for our memories but I did just send him the email.
Might be a few though, remind me if you haven't heard from me on this in a while. Neither of us is known for our memories but I did just send him the email.
From what I read, and have talked about I will be needing a traction bar/antiwrap setup. I've also been trying to figure out how to tie that into a truss setup, and bingo...DIY4X makes those, so I got those coming to combat those problems. Best part is it will all work with the Flatback cover, and the pinion guard I have from them already....
I will have to customize the front crossmember for the traction bar as I'm still going to box the frame, but it shouldn't be a big issue....this should be a great addition to the rear suspension.
Here are the components of both kits to fill the bill for me:
and a cool piece of history
I will have to customize the front crossmember for the traction bar as I'm still going to box the frame, but it shouldn't be a big issue....this should be a great addition to the rear suspension.
Here are the components of both kits to fill the bill for me:
and a cool piece of history
nice hardware....
and I've seen that car before..... somewhere....
and I've seen that car before..... somewhere....
Last edited by a moderator:
it was footy like that... little cleaner, they had a blip about 60's racing on one of the drag racing shows i watch...
i was amused that I happened to be cranking L7's "Shirley" right now when i was watching that... tribute tune to Muldowney..
i was amused that I happened to be cranking L7's "Shirley" right now when i was watching that... tribute tune to Muldowney..
it was footy like that... little cleaner, they had a blip about 60's racing on one of the drag racing shows i watch...
i was amused that I happened to be cranking L7's "Shirley" right now when i was watching that... tribute tune to Muldowney..
Paul, what show is that, and what supplier of TV reception do you have?
honestly Dave, I couldn't even tell ya.... it was a weekend day show, not something specific like Gears or something... just coverage of a national event with some little 5 minute piece in it iirc...... and i'm 99% sure it would have been on Speed... awhile back too... I have the always evil Comcast...
I got Speed on Directv, so I'll scope some shows out there...
And Paul, If I could infringe on your time a little, maybe this could help others who are electrically challenged out to:
I would like to gather some parts to get ready for the rear mounted battery setup, and could use some Simple setup advice to get this done....
I will only mount one battery (for now, but maybe upgrade to 2 in future, so I will put a pull wire in the conduit too) behind the rear bench seat on the floor in a battery box. I will run the cables through a conduit inside the frame rail up to the firewall area, and as you suggeted earlier to use a remote solenoid on the firewall or inner fender. Also as you suggested to me earlier, to run the ground to the frame next to the engine. I'm thinking to run a jumper ground to the engine block from the frame main ground. I think you had a big amp continuous duty solenoid in mind when we PM'd earlier to make a one wire starter hookup, and then using the original firewall wiring, or using a breaker? I'm good to go on that, with some explanation. I got a reman. typical GM starter with higher torque output. The wiring will be from rear axle area to the firewall, so maybe a 10-12' length. I'm not doing this tomorrow, but would like to get some parts ordered to have them ready when I get back to the Iron Maiden project again.
Thanks Paul.
And Paul, If I could infringe on your time a little, maybe this could help others who are electrically challenged out to:
I would like to gather some parts to get ready for the rear mounted battery setup, and could use some Simple setup advice to get this done....
I will only mount one battery (for now, but maybe upgrade to 2 in future, so I will put a pull wire in the conduit too) behind the rear bench seat on the floor in a battery box. I will run the cables through a conduit inside the frame rail up to the firewall area, and as you suggeted earlier to use a remote solenoid on the firewall or inner fender. Also as you suggested to me earlier, to run the ground to the frame next to the engine. I'm thinking to run a jumper ground to the engine block from the frame main ground. I think you had a big amp continuous duty solenoid in mind when we PM'd earlier to make a one wire starter hookup, and then using the original firewall wiring, or using a breaker? I'm good to go on that, with some explanation. I got a reman. typical GM starter with higher torque output. The wiring will be from rear axle area to the firewall, so maybe a 10-12' length. I'm not doing this tomorrow, but would like to get some parts ordered to have them ready when I get back to the Iron Maiden project again.
Thanks Paul.
Ouch. Adds scary up fast don't it?
Not bad though when you compare it to a $50k+ new Tahoe, and much cooler and way more functional.
Not bad though when you compare it to a $50k+ new Tahoe, and much cooler and way more functional.
Last edited:
Ouch. Adds scary up fast don't it?
Not bad though when you compare it to a $50k+ new Tahoe, and much cooler and way more functional.
Yeah, I can see this hitting 20K, just to get it in the fun range...
I'm thinking about a cage kit from S&W to get it going, then add on later if I can get a bender. So many things are just going to have to wait....I just want to get this bitch going, and recover some financially.
I know a guy who can bend if you want to pay someone else to do it.
run the grd to the block, then a jumper over to the frame then over to the rad support grd...
basically you'll be running your bat cable pos to the solenoid... all the wires that where on your main starter lug will now go to the other big post of the solenoid.... it could be as simple as retaining the wires as is, fusable link and all, and just relocating them to wherever you put the solenoid... or, you may have to lengthen them, or run new ones if they dont reach the solenoid... if you do need to lengthen/replace them, then yes, it's a good time to run a breaker, but not necessary.......
thats the advantage of putting the solenoid on the firewall by the heater, you can just relocate those wires from the starter to the solenoid.... put it up front/fenderwell/etc, you'll need more length... your trigger wire that runs to the "s" terminal on the starter will also need to go to the small post on the solenoid...
and just go as big as you can afford on cable, i'd recommend at least 0 gauge... same with the solenoid, as big an amp rating as you can afford... i can hunt you down a decent one for about $50 if you need....
Hey AJ, how close to Kzoo? Can you get me a #?
I don't want this to get to far away from me, as I just don't want it to be gone for a long time....I just don't have the time to spare.
I looked at the S&W kits and even though they aren't ideal it would be something to get going right now, and I would add to later. Right now I just need a basic roll bar with a rear bar for the rear seat, to get it legal to run the dunes with.
I got a guy that runs a chassis shop, and another that runs a hotrod shop...he built this Vette chassis, Wow this pic sucks but:
My buddy with the built Scout 800A. He's SW of Middleville just a hair. NE of Gun Lake, although I dunno, he might be doing his work by Gun Lake now. At any rate, I'll give him a call and see if he's looking for more work.
He's the one doing the work on Big Ugly and The Blazer. Great guy and very talented.
Interior cage? He built one for his Scout and I helped fit it last summer. Is pretty cool.
He's the one doing the work on Big Ugly and The Blazer. Great guy and very talented.
Interior cage? He built one for his Scout and I helped fit it last summer. Is pretty cool.
Hey Paul, while searching for a solenoid, I came across this diagram. Sums it up right?
Also it said to run a specific ground wire from a mounting bolt to the frame for positive ground.
I'm still looking for a solenoid....Painless has some, and others have used a F*rd solenoid, but I don't find a rating on them.
no... thats not a 1 wire setup.... it is a remote solenoid, but 1 wire is much better... all your doing with that is firing the "s" terminal with the solenoid.. you still have juice to the starter all the time...
look at my old diagram here.. ignore the bat switch and just concentrate on the slave solenoid.... power in..... signal/trigger wire (purple) fires the solenoid off from the little post, sending power out the other side of the solenoid down to the starter main post and the jumper wire sends it to the "s" terminal at the same time...
like i said, just ask and i'll hunt ya down a deal on a solenoid...
look at my old diagram here.. ignore the bat switch and just concentrate on the slave solenoid.... power in..... signal/trigger wire (purple) fires the solenoid off from the little post, sending power out the other side of the solenoid down to the starter main post and the jumper wire sends it to the "s" terminal at the same time...
like i said, just ask and i'll hunt ya down a deal on a solenoid...
found this one:
http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=162901F&WT.mc_id=gb1
Well pictures work for me.....I see the one wire concept your talking about....as you mentioned all wires from the big lug on the starter solenoid come up to the remote solenoid now right?
I was searching while you posted up, ok what ya got for a solenoid?
http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=162901F&WT.mc_id=gb1
Well pictures work for me.....I see the one wire concept your talking about....as you mentioned all wires from the big lug on the starter solenoid come up to the remote solenoid now right?
I was searching while you posted up, ok what ya got for a solenoid?
