What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Overview Gallery Discussion
No AJ, he showed me the bags of beads, I just can't remember what they were. I can find out if interested?


Got the headers mounted up today....had to grind a little on the pass side frame, where the front tube goes down, maybe 1/8"....it was just touching, and I wanted a little clearance there so they wouldnt' hit the frame, and I still need to get boxing metal in there too.
I also had to grind the bottom of the head flange where it touched the ARP head bolts. These bolts are a little taller profile than the stock bolts are. After the few mods they fit great.

Flange before clearancing:

HPIM1823.jpg




After, notice the flange is more rounded off now, than above.

HPIM1824.jpg




The pass side frame clearancing:

HPIM1818.jpg


HPIM1825.jpg


HPIM1817.jpg




Head bolt clearance after mods pass side

HPIM1822.jpg


Drivers side

HPIM1826.jpg




Pass side installed


HPIM1821.jpg




plenty of shackle clearance

HPIM1833.jpg


HPIM1819.jpg


HPIM1831.jpg




Drivers side

HPIM1827.jpg


HPIM1828.jpg


HPIM1829.jpg


HPIM1832.jpg
 
Nah, not important. Heck, I have airsoft BB's in my 38's.
 
Yes, I'd like to know what beads.

You probably want to clearance the frame near the header a bit more. When you put your foot in it that motor is going to torque over real good, and your header will crack or break and then you will be mad. Take some more out of the frame and you should be ok as long as you leave a decent sized gap.
 
ryoken said:
beef... those flanges are sick... pretty sure I'll be running those...
Click to expand...
Yep, L&L are the only manufacturer I know of that makes 1/2" thick flanges at the heads.
Their flanges at the collector are 3/8" thick. Thats still thicker than most other headers at the head flange! :bow:
 
Zim, how about a shot of the collectors from under the truck while looking forward so we can see the clearance shot and how even they appear inline.
 
Recon! said:
Now I have to worry about the right amount, too? crap...
Click to expand...
Just follow their recommendations for the amount you need per tire. I also figured use about as much in the beads as the tire had in weights.

I just say that they worked great provided you have enough because I had two instances of badly worn tires, an impossible to balance set of tires, and bent rims that no amount of the beads fixed. They made it better but I ran out of money and willpower to keep dinking with it before I fixed it.
 
those headers are sweet.dont have to worry about bending those flanges from overtightening.looks like you need to clearance the frame a lil more.even though you got that stronger crossmember in there it will probably still flex a lil torward the frame upon hard acceleration or just reving the engine may be enough to make it hit the frame.for the most part once its running you will know for sure how much to clearance it.then you still have to box it in that location so who knows.they are crazy awesonme headers though.the nickle will not let it rust im guessing.looks almost like a hairline crack in the flange where you grinded it.hope im just seing it wrong in the pic.
 
Recon! said:
Yes, I'd like to know what beads.

You probably want to clearance the frame near the header a bit more. When you put your foot in it that motor is going to torque over real good, and your header will crack or break and then you will be mad. Take some more out of the frame and you should be ok as long as you leave a decent sized gap.
Click to expand...

I did clearance the frame more than this pic....I posted the wrong pic evidently...

This pic is bolted up tight, but as it shows it just touches the frame rail, then we marked the area to be clearanced.

HPIM1817.jpg






We clearanced the frame back to the orange line in this pic:

HPIM1818.jpg


I'll try to get another shot of the finished mod tomorrow.

And Wes, I'll get a couple shots from the rear looking forward to show the collector area above and below the crossmember areas....
 
chulisohombre said:
those headers are sweet.dont have to worry about bending those flanges from overtightening.looks like you need to clearance the frame a lil more.even though you got that stronger crossmember in there it will probably still flex a lil torward the frame upon hard acceleration or just reving the engine may be enough to make it hit the frame.for the most part once its running you will know for sure how much to clearance it.then you still have to box it in that location so who knows.they are crazy awesonme headers though.the nickle will not let it rust im guessing.looks almost like a hairline crack in the flange where you grinded it.hope im just seing it wrong in the pic.[/quote]

would this be the pic your referring too?

HPIM1824.jpg


I'll look at it again, but didn't notice it while working on them, some of the flange material is far from smooth, and may just be a "handling" mark.

thanks for pointing it out though.
Click to expand...
 
crawdaddy said:
Those are some nice headers. But how about that coozie?:D
Click to expand...


My Dad asked if they sent the coozie and the stickers with the headers....I laughed and said, I'm not paying extra for the advertisements, but I'll use the can coozie :D
 
Here are the pics of the pass side header after clearancing the frame rail....it has a minimum of 1/8" around the tube....think I need more?....I have DIY4X motor mounts with the poly bushings.

Picture031.jpg


Picture030.jpg



Wes here are some pics looking forward from above and below the crossmember:

Drive side

Picture026.jpg


Picture027.jpg




Pass side

Picture028.jpg


Picture029.jpg
 
Dang! I was hoping both collectors would be at the same height, parallel to each other instead of the passenger side being higher than the drivers.
 
I just got headmans for mine and they are the same way the pass side sits higher.
 
thatK30guy said:
Dang! I was hoping both collectors would be at the same height, parallel to each other instead of the passenger side being higher than the drivers.
Click to expand...
I was looking at that too, and I figure I will route the pass pipe over the transfer case, as I have a 2" body lift anyway, even though the t/c is clocked up 2" I should have enough room to get it through over the t/c and maybe make a heat sheild for the body. I also may consider an oval pipe to get through there with.
 
Recon! said:
Yes, I'd like to know what beads.

You probably want to clearance the frame near the header a bit more. When you put your foot in it that motor is going to torque over real good, and your header will crack or break and then you will be mad. Take some more out of the frame and you should be ok as long as you leave a decent sized gap.
Click to expand...

The beads(?) are IMI Equal beads...a polymer granule product for continual balancing....

I've heard that if they get wet (I think you have bigger problems if it gets wet) that it will clump up, and not do its job.

If water is inside a tire, does it have any effect on EQUAL, and if so, what is the effect?
  • EQUAL Tire Performance does NOT ABSORB water in any way.
  • Due to the fact that EQUAL is a plastic polymer granule, water or moisture will not change its composition.
  • Moisture that accumulates inside the tire will evaporate due to normal driving conditions and therefore is in contact with EQUAL for a very short time.
  • EQUAL, when in contact with large amounts of water, (to the point where it is actually floating freely), will do just that, float. This will interfere with the ability of EQUAL to optimize the given tire in the way that the tire dealer or fleet had intended when installing the product. Simply, this means that although EQUAL will never damage the tire in any way, if it is in contact with large amounts of water, it cannot perform its job. Again, it is important to reiterate, that in most cases, moisture will evaporate due to the heat build up in normal driving, and once the moisture has evaporated, EQUAL will perform as it originally did.
It does however provide balancing throughout the axle/hub/rotor/wheel/tire combination:

What is Tire Force Variation?
Tire Force variation is the result of tire/wheel, brake drum/rotor inconsistencies along with other rotating axle end components and variables in operating conditions that cause vibrations as the tire contacts the road surface under load.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom