I've only seen them use those on dirtbikes and ATVs to check for a spark arrestor, on the 4x4s I just see them use a DB meter, with a 20" string I believe to space it away from the tailpipe a certain test distance. Then make you hold it at 2500 RPM.
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
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jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
I've only seen them use those on dirtbikes and ATVs to check for a spark arrestor, on the 4x4s I just see them use a DB meter, with a 20" string I believe to space it away from the tailpipe a certain test distance. Then make you hold it at 2500 RPM.
I've got a plan from Rene for that....outside the framerail and dump behind the tire, I might try to figure something out in that space for a quick add on for noise reduction.
They'll have to poke a ways to get to the mufflers, but yeah I've only seen them do the bikes and quads for a spark arrestor, and whats the big deal with that, what the hell are they going to burn out in the sand, some of the weeds?
Do they supply the tach?
So what is the max amount of Db can you go? At least they are using a meter instead of the officer's discretion.
Sound Level Rules and Testing
In 2002, a pilot program was undertaken at Silver Lake State Park to use a static or stationary sound level test on all types of ORVs, and that program will continue. Noise levels will be checked from a twenty-inch distance from the exhaust pipe at half the vehicle's rated RPM or as detailed in the automotive specs SAE J1169, March 92 or SAE J1287, June 86. The maximum noise level permitted under these conditions will be 94 dBa which is the current limit set by the Off-Road Recreation Vehicles Act of Part 811 of 1994 PA 451. All vehicles will be required to have a muffler and spark arrester. Mufflers must contain baffles that can be confirmed by inserting a flexible, plastic rod.
Generally speaking, the guidelines for testing at "half the rate RPM" will be based on some vehicle similarities. In most cases, full-sized vehicles with "V" configured engines will be tested at 2,500 RPM and all others at 2,000 RPM. Most reverse flow mufflers will meet the spark arrester requirements, as will most turbochargers. However, straight-through mufflers, such as glass-pack designs without baffles and mechanically driven superchargers, do not qualify as adequate spark arresters.
Motorcycles and ATVs will be tested like the full-sized vehicles by placing a sound meter at a forty-five degree angle, twenty inches from the muffler exhaust pipe. In most cases, 80 cc engines will be tested at 6,000 RPM, 125 cc at 5, 000 RPM, 250 cc at 4,000 RPM and 500+ cc at 3,000 - 3,500 RPM. The Motorcycle Industry Council produces an manual detailing the standards ATVs and motorcycles must meet. A muffler that meets Environmental Acoustic Reduction (E.A.R.) standards may be considered as a viable solution for motorcycles. Most ATVs with unaltered, factory-equipped exhaust systems, that have been properly maintained, will meet the requirements. Those vehicles that have been manufactured for "closed track" use only, such as many motocross or "dirt-bike" motorcycles, will most likely not meet the requirements. This is also often true where after market installations have altered the original exhaust system in attempts to gain additional horsepower.
Found this on the MI DNR website:
All ORVs must have, in good working condition and in constant use, a muffler that will meet or exceed all sound emission standards set by state law.
Exhaust noise must not exceed 99 dB(A)—or 94 dB(A) on vehicles manufactured after January 1, 1986—when tested according to the provisions of the SAE J1287 test. (Refer to the manufacturer's documentation.)
Users should replace all worn or damaged exhaust systems with a quality muffler.
In 2002, a pilot program was undertaken at Silver Lake State Park to use a static or stationary sound level test on all types of ORVs, and that program will continue. Noise levels will be checked from a twenty-inch distance from the exhaust pipe at half the vehicle's rated RPM or as detailed in the automotive specs SAE J1169, March 92 or SAE J1287, June 86. The maximum noise level permitted under these conditions will be 94 dBa which is the current limit set by the Off-Road Recreation Vehicles Act of Part 811 of 1994 PA 451. All vehicles will be required to have a muffler and spark arrester. Mufflers must contain baffles that can be confirmed by inserting a flexible, plastic rod.
Generally speaking, the guidelines for testing at "half the rate RPM" will be based on some vehicle similarities. In most cases, full-sized vehicles with "V" configured engines will be tested at 2,500 RPM and all others at 2,000 RPM. Most reverse flow mufflers will meet the spark arrester requirements, as will most turbochargers. However, straight-through mufflers, such as glass-pack designs without baffles and mechanically driven superchargers, do not qualify as adequate spark arresters.
Motorcycles and ATVs will be tested like the full-sized vehicles by placing a sound meter at a forty-five degree angle, twenty inches from the muffler exhaust pipe. In most cases, 80 cc engines will be tested at 6,000 RPM, 125 cc at 5, 000 RPM, 250 cc at 4,000 RPM and 500+ cc at 3,000 - 3,500 RPM. The Motorcycle Industry Council produces an manual detailing the standards ATVs and motorcycles must meet. A muffler that meets Environmental Acoustic Reduction (E.A.R.) standards may be considered as a viable solution for motorcycles. Most ATVs with unaltered, factory-equipped exhaust systems, that have been properly maintained, will meet the requirements. Those vehicles that have been manufactured for "closed track" use only, such as many motocross or "dirt-bike" motorcycles, will most likely not meet the requirements. This is also often true where after market installations have altered the original exhaust system in attempts to gain additional horsepower.
Found this on the MI DNR website:
All ORVs must have, in good working condition and in constant use, a muffler that will meet or exceed all sound emission standards set by state law.
Exhaust noise must not exceed 99 dB(A)—or 94 dB(A) on vehicles manufactured after January 1, 1986—when tested according to the provisions of the SAE J1287 test. (Refer to the manufacturer's documentation.)
Users should replace all worn or damaged exhaust systems with a quality muffler.
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Some these rules sound stupid. There are some though mufflers that are quieter than baffled mufflers.
So, how loud is 94 db?
So, how loud is 94 db?
- Near total silence - 0 dB
- A whisper - 15 dB
- Normal conversation - 60 dB
- A lawnmower - 90 dB
- A car horn - 110 dB
- A rock concert or a jet engine - 120 dB
- A gunshot or firecracker - 140 dB
According to the experts, prolonged exposure to 90+ dB can cause hearing loss.
Where did you order that kit from? What brand?
http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com/servlet/StoreFront
It wasn't a kit, I just ordered the bends I thought I could use, and 4--5' straight pipes...
16 ga. aluminized.
the hell you got planned for that ubend+45er there? i can imagine anywhere thats gonna go.
but i can imagine lots of my money is going to that website.
but i can imagine lots of my money is going to that website.
I figured with that piece I could have any bend I want....or two, or more.
its good to have options.
I also picked up a foresome of these seats today...40$ each...pretty comfy too. Superduty pass side takeouts...brand new.
Those seats look real nice, and a good deal, but if you have 4 passenger seats how can you drive????
Those seats look real nice, and a good deal, but if you have 4 passenger seats how can you drive????
Oh, that's easy, I do it in my mind all the time
I've been working on the exhaust, and messed around most of the day Friday getting the DR side. Noticed I was running out of welding gas, so I went to the Airgas supply, and got another tank....it fell over in the truck and partially opened the valve, by the time I noticed the hissing when I got home, it was pretty empty. Hooked it up to my reg. and it said close to 0....I was able to weld for about 30 minutes....suck me dry.
So didn't get any more fabbed up on the exhaust.
Tomorrow back for another tank, and I'll secure this one better.
Started on the brake system too, need to order a few things for that.
Looking for some lines for each of the calipers....
I'm running hard line across the back of the 14 close to the caliper, so the Banjo line don't need to be long at all.
Not sure how long I'll need the front to be...more homework for me.
that sucks about the tank... i just realized this morn i'm just about out too... got about 20lb's in there... cheap, just more of a nuisance going to get it...
They let you leave with no steel cap on your bottle Dave? 
Rene
Rene
yeah, my guys anal about that.. everything leaves with a cap, even if ya forget yours...
Here they just swap bottles with you...but everything is capped and the guy comes out to have a look at how you're loading/securing it. Transporting with an exposed regulator is spooky!
Rene
Rene
I don't even think these bottles...20#??? (about 2' tall), have threads on them for a cap?
I got caps for my acetylene, and oxy bottles, but not this argon/CO2.
It is a PITA, because its another 15 mi. into town to get one.
First thing in the AM!
Also, I'm having a tough time getting a good bead on this 16ga. I'm using .030, should I go to .023?
I got the heat at "B" (A-E settings, not variable) and feed at 3 (1-10 variable)
The wire feed seems good, but if I turn down the heat it just rounds up the weld, if I turn it to C it blows a hole in it.
I gotta move it fast to keep from blowing a hole in it. It is aluminized new pipe, does that matter? Do I need to sand off the aluminized coating?
I got caps for my acetylene, and oxy bottles, but not this argon/CO2.
It is a PITA, because its another 15 mi. into town to get one.
First thing in the AM!
Also, I'm having a tough time getting a good bead on this 16ga. I'm using .030, should I go to .023?
I got the heat at "B" (A-E settings, not variable) and feed at 3 (1-10 variable)
The wire feed seems good, but if I turn down the heat it just rounds up the weld, if I turn it to C it blows a hole in it.
I gotta move it fast to keep from blowing a hole in it. It is aluminized new pipe, does that matter? Do I need to sand off the aluminized coating?
Use .023 for sure, and definitely grind off the aluminized coating before welding. Clean bare steel always...you wouldn't weld over paint would you? 
Post a pic of your bottle...
Rene
Post a pic of your bottle...
Rene
Use .023 for sure, and definitely grind off the aluminized coating before welding. Clean bare steel always...you wouldn't weld over paint would you?
Post a pic of your bottle...
Rene
K, guess I'll get some wire too then, I shoulda known that one...Fail
My home comp is OOS right now, trying to get it fixed.
