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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
- Thread starter 76zimmer
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- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
The wire wheel I used was from a DO IT hardware store locally. The wire said FINE....there were also coarse wheels available. If you go to Home Depot or Lowes they would probably have a better selection. My wheels look like they've been tied down with chains or something through the wheel, and also have some rock rash.
And I expect to give them more, so a wire wheel, and a little metal polish will suit me fine. They will be easy to touch up that way too.
Another Pic of the tire/wheel combo mounted up:
And I expect to give them more, so a wire wheel, and a little metal polish will suit me fine. They will be easy to touch up that way too.
Another Pic of the tire/wheel combo mounted up:
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I've checked the search, and it doesn't look like a ring gear spacer is available for the 14BFF. I have a 3.73 open carrier in a 3/4t axle housing, that I was hoping to put a set of 4.56 gears in from another 14BFF that has a bad gov-bomb in it.
SO I need to get a 4.56 and up open carrier, or thick gear set. Are those my only options? There is no locker made to replace a gov-bomb right?
SO I need to get a 4.56 and up open carrier, or thick gear set. Are those my only options? There is no locker made to replace a gov-bomb right?
OK, here are more pics, teardown of the 454.
The heads are 781 castings from 76, they are going to my head guy for a rebuild, and a little massaging, along with adding 2.19/1.88 valves.
I found this deal on a valve set from Ebay, the guy seems to have been a head engineer from Crane Cams, and has spun off his own co. My head guy said get them, and he'll look at them to see if they're all they are advertised to be.
I'll take a pic when they come in, and then take them to my head guy to evaluate them.
VALVE LINK: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEV...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ceb403d49
The next pics are of the block, and cylinders.
The block is standard bore, and I cleaned the top ridge of carbon, then put a ring in to measure the gap. I used the bolt and stop nut to get a relatively even squareness in the cylinder of the ring. Top gap measured .036. This is in the unworn part of the cylinder. Then I turned the piston upside down to square the ring again to measure down to the top of the piston ring travel area. Gap there was .042, then the length of the piston skirt down into the cylinder, which is about 3.625 inches, not quite the bottom of ring travel, but it will give an idea of how much taper there is to the bore.
Gap at bottom was .040. So taper in the bore is good, however the bore is worn at least .006. too much I think to reuse the existing pistons.
Shining a light from the bottom showed no light between the ring and cylinder wall, so it looks to be pretty round still also.
The machinist will have to make the determination on this though, I don't have the precision measuring tools to accurately check this out.
In addition there is this gouge in the bore, which is more than a couple thousandths deep, so it would blow oil by there, so it looks like a bore job is in order.
The Crankshaft has already been ground too. I didn't check the size of it when I bought this engine, my ignorance is going to cost me more here too. It already has .020 under bearings in it. So another grind will take it to .030. Machinist will advise on this one, but he said as long as it magnafluxed ok, we would go from there on what to do. The crank mains measured (still in the block) with a set of calipers are 2.75, and rod was 2.178.
This is typical of the bearings I took out:
The crank is a cast unit, as can be seen by the yellow marked parting line on the flywheel flange. Forged cranks have about a 1/2" wide parting line here, where as a cast crank has just a thin line. Casting number mean anything to anyone?
And it looks to me like some of the lifter bores have been bushed. Look carefully, and you can see what looks like an insert in the bore of some, but not all of the lifter bores:
And finally I have stripped out two bolts 9/16-18 thread to my puller trying to get the damn Dampner off. That sucker is stuck. I have moved it about 3/4", but I wonder if someone put locktight on it or something. I've never had such a bitch of a time getting one off. I'm going to go get a couple more bolts, and use some heat on the inner bore of the dampner where it is pressed onto the snout of the crank.
The heads are 781 castings from 76, they are going to my head guy for a rebuild, and a little massaging, along with adding 2.19/1.88 valves.
I found this deal on a valve set from Ebay, the guy seems to have been a head engineer from Crane Cams, and has spun off his own co. My head guy said get them, and he'll look at them to see if they're all they are advertised to be.
I'll take a pic when they come in, and then take them to my head guy to evaluate them.
VALVE LINK: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEV...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ceb403d49
The next pics are of the block, and cylinders.
The block is standard bore, and I cleaned the top ridge of carbon, then put a ring in to measure the gap. I used the bolt and stop nut to get a relatively even squareness in the cylinder of the ring. Top gap measured .036. This is in the unworn part of the cylinder. Then I turned the piston upside down to square the ring again to measure down to the top of the piston ring travel area. Gap there was .042, then the length of the piston skirt down into the cylinder, which is about 3.625 inches, not quite the bottom of ring travel, but it will give an idea of how much taper there is to the bore.
Gap at bottom was .040. So taper in the bore is good, however the bore is worn at least .006. too much I think to reuse the existing pistons.
Shining a light from the bottom showed no light between the ring and cylinder wall, so it looks to be pretty round still also.
The machinist will have to make the determination on this though, I don't have the precision measuring tools to accurately check this out.
In addition there is this gouge in the bore, which is more than a couple thousandths deep, so it would blow oil by there, so it looks like a bore job is in order.
The Crankshaft has already been ground too. I didn't check the size of it when I bought this engine, my ignorance is going to cost me more here too. It already has .020 under bearings in it. So another grind will take it to .030. Machinist will advise on this one, but he said as long as it magnafluxed ok, we would go from there on what to do. The crank mains measured (still in the block) with a set of calipers are 2.75, and rod was 2.178.
This is typical of the bearings I took out:
The crank is a cast unit, as can be seen by the yellow marked parting line on the flywheel flange. Forged cranks have about a 1/2" wide parting line here, where as a cast crank has just a thin line. Casting number mean anything to anyone?
And it looks to me like some of the lifter bores have been bushed. Look carefully, and you can see what looks like an insert in the bore of some, but not all of the lifter bores:
And finally I have stripped out two bolts 9/16-18 thread to my puller trying to get the damn Dampner off. That sucker is stuck. I have moved it about 3/4", but I wonder if someone put locktight on it or something. I've never had such a bitch of a time getting one off. I'm going to go get a couple more bolts, and use some heat on the inner bore of the dampner where it is pressed onto the snout of the crank.
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I'm liking them, the more I look at them. At first I was trying to find something that would work...I needed 16.5's and they are getting limited for selection of wheels now. The really cleaned up pretty good with a fine wire wheel, and could be made smoother, and more polished if I wanted to take the time to put into them. This won't be a mall crawler, so they will be fine as they are for my use.
Also I actually have 2 sets of 2 wheels, as they are different manufacturers, and they look a little different, and take different lug nuts.
Ooyye.
Samething for a friend of mine. He's got 3 of 1 style and 4th is just slightly different. Not real noticable unless you know.
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
I'm right there with you on the budget thing...
I like build threads, but I also like project specific tech threads...
Searching for stuff sucks, there's so much crap you have to sift threw just to get to some good info...
A build thread only area would be really cool... I've thought about going threw my pics(from my build thread and the ton of pics on my computer) and breaking it down into separate tech threads...
I've also thought about adding a link to every update post in the build thread to a tech thread that goes into way more detail...
I like build threads, but I also like project specific tech threads...
Searching for stuff sucks, there's so much crap you have to sift threw just to get to some good info...
A build thread only area would be really cool... I've thought about going threw my pics(from my build thread and the ton of pics on my computer) and breaking it down into separate tech threads...
I've also thought about adding a link to every update post in the build thread to a tech thread that goes into way more detail...
Searching does kinda suck, but in a positive way...I've run across some info that has been pretty helpful.
AS PROMISED.....NEKKIDNESS:
Block, Crank, Rods and Pistons ready to go to machinist.
I got the dampner off finally after trashing 2 more puller bolts. I could only find grade 5 bolts, and even using penetrating spray, and a couple doses of heat on the dampner, it finally came off.
I stripped the block of everything, all galley plugs, freeze plugs, and such. The only thing left in the block is the cam bearings. The machinist can take those out.
I also tapped all threaded bolt, and plug holes.
AS PROMISED.....NEKKIDNESS:
Block, Crank, Rods and Pistons ready to go to machinist.
I got the dampner off finally after trashing 2 more puller bolts. I could only find grade 5 bolts, and even using penetrating spray, and a couple doses of heat on the dampner, it finally came off.
I stripped the block of everything, all galley plugs, freeze plugs, and such. The only thing left in the block is the cam bearings. The machinist can take those out.
I also tapped all threaded bolt, and plug holes.
Today the Fed ex guy brought these new hubs/rotors w/studs for the D60....still can't believe these were only 338 to my door.
link: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm
part #: 15635530 129$ each plus 40$ each shipping/handling
link: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm
part #: 15635530 129$ each plus 40$ each shipping/handling
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Nice...
I posted that link and part number somewhere last week for a guy...
Hard to beat that deal...
I posted that link and part number somewhere last week for a guy...
Hard to beat that deal...
absolutely...I think I used that link you put up....Thansk for that.
Shipping was a little pricey, but I like what I got to work with.
New parts is always fun, no cleaning, no rebuilding....just a little paint on em, and races, bearings, and seals. Cool.
I got some Valves in today, and a Edlebrock Performer Intake, and some Front 6" Springs from Rich..XTREMEGMC80...look good Rich, thank you sir.
I'll get pics up soon.
New Valve set:
for more info see the above posted link on heads/valves.
Edelbrock intake:
for more info see above posted link to Edelbrock intake.
Shipping was a little pricey, but I like what I got to work with.
New parts is always fun, no cleaning, no rebuilding....just a little paint on em, and races, bearings, and seals. Cool.
I got some Valves in today, and a Edlebrock Performer Intake, and some Front 6" Springs from Rich..XTREMEGMC80...look good Rich, thank you sir.
I'll get pics up soon.
New Valve set:
for more info see the above posted link on heads/valves.
Edelbrock intake:
for more info see above posted link to Edelbrock intake.
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BTW, I love the build threads.
I've always been a fair mechanic, and it seems I always learn sumthin new from you guys. Lots of great ideas and innovation.
So thanks, and keep up the great work!
I've always been a fair mechanic, and it seems I always learn sumthin new from you guys. Lots of great ideas and innovation.
So thanks, and keep up the great work!
Looks good man. Love the "in the weeds" Blazer shot.
Sounds like a solid plan, nothing too crazy but very stout when done.
Sounds like a solid plan, nothing too crazy but very stout when done.
And thats all I'm shootin for, with this phase....gotta have it done for
Drummond Island Turtle Ridge Run, in May.....you going?
Dunno. Doubt I'll have anything to drive and I dunno if I'll have vacation by then. Gotta find a job first.
Well if you can make it, I'm sure we could find a seat for ya. It would be good to have you along, and to meet you too.
My new costs and Price to date on Iron Maiden:
Previous $$$$ to date: $2855
Edlebrock Performer.........106
Stainless valve set..........110
Front 6" Springs..............100
D60 Rotors/Hubs.............338
Total to date............. $3509
I took the block, crank, rods, pistons to the machinist today. He said the crank was a reman kit, because of the paint marks on the flyweights...... .020 under.
My new costs and Price to date on Iron Maiden:
Previous $$$$ to date: $2855
Edlebrock Performer.........106
Stainless valve set..........110
Front 6" Springs..............100
D60 Rotors/Hubs.............338
Total to date............. $3509
I took the block, crank, rods, pistons to the machinist today. He said the crank was a reman kit, because of the paint marks on the flyweights...... .020 under.
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Depending on finances and timing I might be in the area to get The Blazer painted and pick up Big Ugly. All kinda depends.
