CK5
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Bearing/hub installation.....Attention to detail noted:

I got both disc/hub assy's on the housing today.
I'm glad I read the GM service manual as it states:

Install outer bearing into hub.
Install bearing cup into hub.
Drive cup beyond the snap ring groove.
Install snap ring in groove.
Drive cup back against snap ring.
Install inner bearing cup.
Install inner bearing.
Install oil seal.

The red one caught me by surprise.
 
Just got back from visiting my Rearend guru, whom I've been trying to get ahold of for a week now (He was out of town).
He was looking at the pattern, and said "Used gears huh, I hate used gears, they cause trouble eventually."
So we messed with the shims a little, and he looked at the pinion gear, and noticed that it, and the ring have seen some abuse, and then hit the pinion with some magnaflux, and we found a crack in one of the teeth. He said that it WOULD be the problem he was talking about earlier. So now he's going to order me a new set of gears at his cost, and then said " You'll be surprised how much easier they are to set up, than a used set"
So I guess even though I had it in my head I got this great deal on these 4.56's, and I was going to use them, so I had my great deal on gears thing in my head, I should have stepped back and evaluated them better before even fooking with them. It's cost me a week or more, and frustration for Brian trying to read my ****ty pattern pics, and I still have to get a new set of gears. Chalk it up to "lesson learned"
So Brian recommended a couple manufacturers in an earlier post, I'll check them out to order.
 
Well, like I said, I'm a funewgie @ diff set up, and this guy has literally done hundreds, mostly drag stuff, but a diff is a diff right?
He was looking at the size of the 10.5 and said dam that thing is big, but when he got a look at the ring gear, he said he wanted to look at the pinion, and thats when he decided to mag it. It had definitely had something raise hell in there at one time, and I guess since this was a junk yard wrecker they just took out whatever caused the damage and ran the snot out of it, cause it was still in use til they smoked the trans.
So I take a couple steps forward, and a couple back for right now.
I get to do this all over again with a new gear set, we'll see how that goes. I'm optomistic about it. And I won't have any question in my mind about it either I hope.
 
Hey, could be worse. When I ran my own Michigan based 4x4 site we had a member who was sure he could setup his own gears.

He spent some money on all the parts for his 14FF and went to it.

Totally did it wrong.
I have the good sense when I don't know what I'm doing to say "no, stop now before you break something." I learned the hard way.
He didn't and yep, screwed up his new stuff so bad he had to pay a shop for a bunch of parts AND to put it together the right way.
 
well, I'm still confident I can do this. After setting up the pinion once, and getting through that, and screwing around with the gear setup (Thanks Brian (readymix) again), and my diff guy said other than the ****ty pinion, and a banged up ring gear that everything else felt and looked good. He runs a blown Pro-mod, sets up diff's and builds cars, so I guess he has some experience with this stuff. I'm hoping a new gear set will make this a great experience for me.
 
its good to see all these build threads.how someone else builds things will help a lot people when they decide to mod their trucks.and on that,looks like you have a good start here.it took me a weekend to set up my dana 44.i had a friend that had done it a few times come over and help me,so it went much smoother than if i tried to do it myself.also helped he had the press for chaging bearings and dial indicator so i didnt have to buy it myself.:o i also had used gears but they had low miles on them from a dodge 44.when i bought my 14ff i went to the junkyard and bought one with the right gearing.looks like it sat at the bottom of the pile for years.i just used a tire iron and a bfh and pryed the drum off because i was going disk brakes also.no need to keep all that rotted rust stuff when i can save 100 pounds and have all new parts for about the cost of replaceing the bad drum brake system that was there.
 
Hey Joel, I hear ya on the disc setup. My drums were crap too, and I didn't price out the cost of a drum rebuild, but I doubt the cost of the DIY4X brackets, rotors, calipers, and hardware, would be much more, if any than the drums, shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders. Besides its a great upgrade.

Here is a pic of the pinion, and although I cant tell where the crack is now as we wiped it down after the magnaflux check, you can tell something went through those teeth. Looking back, I can't believe I was actually going to try to run these....WTF?


HPIM1469.jpg



I talked with my rear end guy, and he ordered the ring and pinion from Richmond, they will drop ship tomorrow. Hopefully I can get it by the weekend. He was telling me, he thinks the Richmond gears are about the only gears made in the US anymore. Even then you have to be careful, as they have an import brand called Richmond Excel so they can compete with the other cheap ones out there.
 
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So while I had some downtime today, and I dont' have my frame back from the strippers yet (may be next week now....arrggg), I moved the wiring for my welder to another bay of the shop, and put a couple more lights in that bay too. NICE....


I also recieved this from Kert @ DIY4X today:


HPIM1465.jpg


HPIM1466.jpg


HPIM1468.jpg


HPIM1467.jpg



This is the frame boxing kit that Kert has been working on.

I believe this kit is for a shortbox p/u.

I will be using what I can on the Blazer frame, and making templates to send to Kert so he can make a kit for the Blazers'. Cool stuff Kert.

Stay tuned for this fitting process. As soon as I get my frame from the strippers, I will concentrate on this as much as possible, so Kert can get this kit together.
 
I think it will be pretty easy to fill in the blanks where the PU box kit doesn't quite work.

Fingers crossed.
 
Nice. I wonder if he is making these for first gen blazers?
So while I had some downtime today, and I dont' have my frame back from the strippers yet (may be next week now....arrggg), I moved the wiring for my welder to another bay of the shop, and put a couple more lights in that bay too. NICE....


I also recieved this from Kert @ DIY4X today:


HPIM1465.jpg


HPIM1466.jpg


HPIM1468.jpg


HPIM1467.jpg



This is the frame boxing kit that Kert has been working on.

I believe this kit is for a shortbox p/u.

I will be using what I can on the Blazer frame, and making templates to send to Kert so he can make a kit for the Blazers'. Cool stuff Kert.

Stay tuned for this fitting process. As soon as I get my frame from the strippers, I will concentrate on this as much as possible, so Kert can get this kit together.
 
I don't think so, but give him a PM....maybe something in the works?
 
Looks awesome, what part is for the front?

Good thing you posted a build thread huh? :D
 
I think this is the front, and I don't think I have them layed out, as they are to be installed on a blazer. Thats what we are trying to find out, what parts need mods to work on a blazer.


HPIM1468.jpg




I'm hoping this build will help others somehow, as others builds have helped me.....and also addicted me.

I hope I can help Kert out with the mods to this kit, to develop the Blazer kit too.
 
what machine of metal melting goodness will you be using?
 
Well, I got the oxy/acetylene torch, or a sawzall, or a air powered cutting disc, then finish it out with a 5" disc grinder. I'm still a little pre-historic in my metal working tools.
 
mmmm gotcha......Lincoln WeldPak 175 MIG.
But I think I will just be tacking all pieces in place right now, so if needed I can make mods after fitting the pieces. I'm not sure yet of running metal lines inside the frame for brake and fuel, or on top of the frame. Still some logistics to figure out.
 
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