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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Overview Gallery Discussion
ryoken said:
one of these fockers...


...
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:haha::haha:... fockers...:haha::haha:that still cracks me up to read that.

I put the engine crossmember and motor mount brackets back in today, and have them bolted, and will run a few welds on the crossmember too. Maybe tack the brackets on also. I need to mold the boxing kit around all those brackets and see how that comes out. Hopefully tomorrow. Also got the frame reinforcement brackets for the DIY4X flip kit tacked to the inside of the frame. The DR. and P.T. visits sure suck the shop time out of ya. Between those and work (on a 21 day stretch right now), I feel like I ain't gettin' sh!t done out there.
 
A few pics of the minute progress:

The crossmember and motor mount brackets bolted in, and a few stitch welds for a little extra strength:

HPIM1555.jpg



A coating of Zinc weld through primer before putting the DIY4X shackle flip brackets on:

HPIM1553.jpg


HPIM1554.jpg


Installed with some welds to hold the nut brackets in place, so when the box kit goes on they won't get lost if the shackle brackets have to come off.

HPIM1558.jpg


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Forming a piece of the boxing metal:

HPIM1556.jpg

HPIM1557.jpg
 
looks like ya got that to fit up nice...

what did that guy use to tank the frame? an acid? it just kinda comes across, dirty-ish looking in pics... not that clean light gray look I'm used to seeing from blasting...
 
I did have it acid stripped....but it was to big to put in their oven.....check post #210 for a better explanation of the process, and less than desirable results.
 
ah, gotcha.... maybe a quick hit with a DA and some 80 grit would help...
 
If you look at the pic of the crossmember in post 242, top pic, that went through the whole process, as did the rear axle housing....and they are really bare of everything, and have a acid etch left to them.
The frame still has some coating left on it, and has some new rust from the ride home on salty roads....The shop is nice and dry though, so it should hold its own for now. After the fabbing of the boxing kit, I'll try to prep it better before throwing some paint at it.
Paul, when you use that zinc coating, then weld through it, does it affect your welds?
I seemed to have a hard time penetrating through that stuff. It says weld through, so I thought I would try it, and its ok for what it needs to hold on for the nut brackets, but I dont' think I'll use it for a more important weld.
 
most of the weld-thru primers like to be pretty piss-thin where the actual bead is going to be... it doesn't like to arc well when it's thick... also, yes, if I can, I weldthru prime the parts first in the area ya want protected, clamp it up, etc, than before i lay bead i'll take my angle die grinder with a 24 grit roloc and rehit the bead area as much as i can get at it.. it does help.... but in a pinch, if ya can't rehit it, you can generally burn thru it... also, when i'm laying bead if i start getting any sputtery crap, i'll stop, grab a welding brush quick, and wire brush the joint good and hard...

where weld thru primer is nice is for like a weld-on steering brace.. douche the back of the brace, hit the frame, clamp it all up, than clean the weld areas... or rust patches where your stepping sheetmetal, overlapping and doing a poormans spotweld...
 
cool, thats what I was thinking with the coating on the frame, and the shackle flip brackets, and nut brackets.....get that coating on the bare metal before any attachment.
this is the first "project" I've used my Mig on....had an old Lincoln buzz box for years, but never used it much.....I so.....love this mig unit.
 
I went to a local piping supply warehouse today, to look at some tubing for the fuel line.
I found some 304 stainless welded seam tubing for $1.20/ft. 1/2 OD. .035 wall. I ordered a 20ft piece for the fuel line. Should be in Monday.
He suggested not trying to flare it, as it might split the seam. I'm running a mechanical pump on the engine, and will run Swagelock connectors at the ends, so it should work great. We use the same stuff at work for air lines to instruments, and valves with 40psi on them all the time, and they hold up great under the abusive conditions (high vibration, heat extremes, and cold weather).
I removed the front shackle hangers, and will replace with some DIY4X hangers, and shackles. Waiting for my parts orders from DIY4X, and ORD.
 
With the BB motor I would run a return line. You can run a bigger pump and install a regulator. Will help when you mash on the go pedal.:saweet::D
 
I got my eye on a 130gph mechanical pump, which doesn't need the regulator. One less thing to mess with.
K.I.S.S. principal at work here. The .430 i.d. line should feed my 450 hp. fine. And as long as the float is set right, the off the line acceleration shouldn't need the fuel pump right away, right?
 
Dave,

Good to talk to you this evening.

Tip for you if you plan on doing some sort of conduit inside the... or for that matter, even if you don't. When you pull a wire through, always pull a sacraficial "PULL" wire along with it. Next time you need to get something down the frame you already have a "PULL" wire in place.
 
another "good to have idea"
and yeah always good talking with you Kert. Thanks for the advice "again"
 
tools for the metal fab for the boxing kit:

pretty basic, but quite effective.

I have a cutting wheel on the grinder.

HPIM1560.jpg


making templates of the frame areas to transfer to the metal:
lots of cutting and trimming:

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And some new goodies from Kert @ DIY4X:

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Some of the metal work progress:

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Kert sent pieces about 3-4' long, and I've been hacking them up where I can fit them. The front sections work pretty good, as they are pretty common between K-5,10,20,etc.

Just tacking them in place right now, as I have some brake and fuel lines to put in, then more mods to the crossmembers before they go back in.
I will weld some nuts to the inside of the frame for the crossmembers where I can.
 
I got my stainless fuel line today, and will work on getting it bent up, and ordered a stainless main brake line also. These will be enclosed inside the frame, so I want them stainless, and well secured, so they will be pretty permanent when the boxing kit is on.
I'm thinking of modifying the original pickup unit to a larger pickup tube. Anyone ever done this before?
 
76zimmer said:
I'm thinking of modifying the original pickup unit to a larger pickup tube. Anyone ever done this before?
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I have not done it myself but I have heard of it being done a lot. Especially when adding a return line to a tank for fuel injection.

Same principal, remove old feed line from sender and replace it with larger feed line. Clean all the surfaces really well, apply flux and solder. Install sending unit in tank and pressurize tank to check for leaks (low pressure, like 2 or 3 psi). That is about it.

Rufus
 
I will be running the stock tank for now, maybe moved up and forward in the frame some. Also will be making a skid plate for it.
That being the case, I was considering making an outlet on the bottom of the tank towards the rear and forget about using the sender/pickup for fuel. I would just keep the sending unit for tank level. Anyone have this type of mod on their rig?
 
I plan on removing the combination valve/ brake warning switch block to simply make a standard one line Front, one line Rear system. I will put a proportioning valve in the rear line for adjustment of the system as needed for my particular combination.
I will have 4 wheel discs, and plan on using the stock vac booster, and pedal assy. with a 1 ton m/c. I know there is a thread about that here in the garage. I will have 3/16" lines throughout.
I have about 6" lift going on.

So my questions are:
1) Will I lose anything other than mentioned above by removing the combo valve?

2) I have a model year 85 D60, with the stock calipers on it right now, and I will replace them. Any problem putting a 79 caliper on there, to get the SAE sized brakelines instead of metric?

3) Anyone have a set of braided line part #'s for the 6" lift and 79 calipers?
 
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