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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Overview Gallery Discussion
76zimmer said:
Me too. I had a 427 I painted like that one time, and have really liked the look ever since. Block, heads, and intake all aluminum, with Chevy orange pan, and valve covers. I saw a Chevrolet pic of a 427 ZL1 like that about a hundred years ago somewhere.
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Chevy Orange or Huger Orange is just a bitchen color. My huge parts washer is done in that color. You may have never seen it looking at your join date. Check it out.

link
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133904&highlight=powder+coated+parts+washer
 
my opinion and i havent even run my doubler yet is triple stick it now.

the stock 205 shifter is a pain in the but. my bench test of the triple stick is much much better. thay move like butter.

and if you didnt check the detent feel on the range box. if its real light do the rounded off nut trick like i did in my build as a spacer on the spring in the plug on the bottom of the range box shifter area.

the nut made the spring tighter and 95% match to the way the 205 front and rear shift feeling the same on all 3 levers.
 
I did check that detent ball spring for pressure after assembly, and again with the stick installed, and on the 203 it feels real solid, the 205 however shifted good independently on the bench but now with the attaching arm between the 2 shafts, it wants to bind when moving the levers to the front. I can't remember now if thats low or high. I was thinking I'll check that again when I put that spacer in you sent me (got it today).
I do see what you mean by the stock attaching arm feeling sloppy though.
Is there a way to warrant a fix on that or is triple stick the only way out of it.
I really don't see a need for ME to have triple sticks.
 
the style of the 2 rods linked makes the 205 shift tight and bind a little at times. my plow truck was giving me a ton of crap this season. and its all greased and lubed.

i have these ready to swap in this summer . :D pic posted . modifyed shift rails for full twin stick use. prob get a twin stick kit from vendor here at some point.

took my stockers from doubler case and new from ord and had them modifyed via a friend with machine shop use.

modifyed 205 rails 005.jpg
 
so even when they're good, they'er bad huh?
Fook me, I need to spend more on this pig?

What is done to the shafts to make them twin-stickable?
 
76zimmer said:
so even when they're good, they'er bad huh?
Fook me, I need to spend more on this pig?

What is done to the shafts to make them twin-stickable?
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This is the link I used to grind mine and it worked like a charm, perfect. I also agree that the tripple stick is the way to go. I may even twin stick my Dodge after feeling how smooth this ORD tripple stick setup is. BTW I still haven't installed my doubler yet so take my advice for what it's worth:wink1:Oh and I did machine a .25 long spacer for my 203 detent spring and it's perfect now.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=572617
 
Is this a stock 6 qt. pan? And is that without a filter?
HPIM1761.jpg


measures about 8.5" to bottom of pan:

HPIM1764.jpg


And about 10.5" for the length of the sump:

HPIM1763.jpg
 
I was checking some conrod bearing clearances today, and its been a while since I put a BBC together, but I think the dish in the piston dome goes toward the lifter valley right?

HPIM1766.jpg




does it matter what orientation the rods are facing?

HPIM1765.jpg




I got 4 rods checked today, and all were .002

HPIM1767.jpg
 
76zimmer said:
I did check that detent ball spring for pressure after assembly, and again with the stick installed, and on the 203 it feels real solid, the 205 however shifted good independently on the bench but now with the attaching arm between the 2 shafts, it wants to bind when moving the levers to the front. I can't remember now if thats low or high. I was thinking I'll check that again when I put that spacer in you sent me (got it today).
I do see what you mean by the stock attaching arm feeling sloppy though.
Is there a way to warrant a fix on that or is triple stick the only way out of it.
I really don't see a need for ME to have triple sticks.
Click to expand...
its is 4 low on the 205.up 4 low next nutral.next 2 high bottom or all the way out 4 high.4 low is a pain to get in sometimes for me also.awesome detail on that paint.looks real good.
 
76zimmer said:
I think the dish in the piston dome goes toward the lifter valley right?
Click to expand...
Yes, thats a valve relief, and that looks right.

76zimmer said:
does it matter what orientation the rods are facing?
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Yes, You can see on your third picture that the bearing is offset towards one side of the rod.
Thats to make room for the small radius at both ends of the journals.

So the rods should be mounted so that the bearings becomes offset towards the center of the journal.
 
chulisohombre said:
its is 4 low on the 205.up 4 low next nutral.next 2 high bottom or all the way out 4 high.4 low is a pain to get in sometimes for me also.awesome detail on that paint.looks real good.
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I figure I'll get the shift pattern down when I run it, but it bugs me that its being such a bitch trying to shift with both the shafts at once. Everything worked good on the bench....I think I can upgrade to triple without much cost right?

And thanks for the paint remark, but what paint are you referring too?



FRED....they are what you say they are....its all good.
 
I got the rings fitted to the cylinders today. My machinist said to go a little bigger on the gaps then GM has, we got .020-.022 for the top, .024-.026 for 2nd, and plenty on the oil rings. Its got SRP forged pistons, and moly rings.



The pistons ready to go in.

HPIM1768.jpg



The cylinders, and crank are CLEAN, and ready for the slugs:

HPIM1769.jpg



I used brake cleaner first to clean the cylinders, then trans fluid and washed the cylinder walls with it, leaving a nice wet coating on them, and a mixture of STP, and 30w oil to make a thick honey for the bearings, all of them found a home;

HPIM1771.jpg


Tomorrow, I'll get to the cam and other goods.


Cam info:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=468&sb=0
 
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For the valve reliefs, just think of which way the valve is going to come down towards the piston from the head. The valve reliefs go to the inside.

As for which way the rods go on the crank, see the oil slingers on the one side of the rod cap (the little piece of iron that sticks out past the other end of the rod, creating a little shelf)? The oil slingers go away from each other on the journal. So they will go opposite every rod. #1 will go towards the front, #2 towards the rear, #3 towards the front, #4 towards the rear, etc.

Martin
 
Got it....it seemed logical as I was checking the bearings out today...that relief "fits" the intake valve, I figured that was how it went, just needed the reassurance of some experienced BBC guys. Its just been a while since I've been into a BBC.

Anybody have any comments about the pan posted above? If its a 6qt. I'll probably use it.
 
76zimmer said:
I figure I'll get the shift pattern down when I run it, but it bugs me that its being such a bitch trying to shift with both the shafts at once. Everything worked good on the bench....I think I can upgrade to triple without much cost right?

And thanks for the paint remark, but what paint are you referring too?
Click to expand...
i was talkin bout the drivetrain.looks good.should look good for awhile.i like the plans on the engine also.ive never rebuilt a bottom end yet,just heads so far.looks to be you are not too far away from gettin it all together.
 
Thanks on the paint job, its just rattle can stuff on the drivetrain, with a zinc primer underneath. It'll look good til I mud it the first time anyway....:D

I was hoping to get the rest of the shortblock together today, but realized I don't have any moly cam paste for the lobes....:mad:.

If you've done head assembly, I think you could handle shortblock assembly too. Just plan on building it in stages, and trial fit each stage before final assembly.
And don't be afraid to ask questions!
I've probably had the pistons in and out 3 times in each hole now, and rings a couple times in each hole, while setting gaps...time consuming but I write everything down on a blueprint sheet also when trial fitting all the components. Its a good reference down the road when you second guess yourself on something.
 
Gotta love the engine building part of the build, what kind of numbers are you expecting?
 
Dyno 2000 program says about 460hp, 550tq as it will be installed. I think that is optomistic, but thats what I have to go by from that program.

What I was really shooting for was torque...

@2000 it shows 522...peaks @ 3500 w/548...and 527 @ 4500.
 
Found the cam lube in the box, just didn't look for it....duh.

I got the cam in and degreed today....all numbers were right on except .001 less intake lift than the spec card says....

I installed it straight up (0*) as Comp Cams grinds their cams +4*.

HPIM1772.jpg



Finding true TDC...after this I moved to the lifter for degreeing.

HPIM1775.jpg
 
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