that may be tough, every pcv i've ever seen was a push-in, grommet style... and yes, the threaded fitting is pressure...
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
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- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
I remember seeing some threaded type PCV's at a swap meet before, but have no idea what the application was for. there has to be one out there somewhere. If not, maybe an inline oriface.
Update!!!....of all vehicles it would be on...a 64 327 Corvette (and many other apps too)...who'da thunk it...My car wasn't set up that way since I've had it, so I never knew it should have been on my car. Anyhow I think this will work:
If i was to hook that PS pressure port up to one of the returns, with a hose clamp would it be ok for now, or possibly blow off at an inopportune time?
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Make sure that PCV valve works the correct direction, you could pull the vacuum on the wrong side. Was it designed for the threads to go into the intake port or the the crankcase?
Also, not sure on the pump. Theoretically if there is no resistance it can't build any pressure. But usually the steering box deals with the pressure side and returns the low pressure. I guess the concern would be if it would pressurize the reservoir and cause a problem there. But I would think it couldn't since it is pulling the fluid from the same place it's pumping it if you hook the output right back into the reservioir. There is one way to find out, just make sure and shut it off immediately if it does blow the hose.
Also, not sure on the pump. Theoretically if there is no resistance it can't build any pressure. But usually the steering box deals with the pressure side and returns the low pressure. I guess the concern would be if it would pressurize the reservoir and cause a problem there. But I would think it couldn't since it is pulling the fluid from the same place it's pumping it if you hook the output right back into the reservioir. There is one way to find out, just make sure and shut it off immediately if it does blow the hose.
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
as for your ps pump, you could find a rubber plumbing cap and hose clamp for the top, a threaded pipe cap for the preasure line and for the return, a small amount of return line with a bolt stuck in the end and a small hose clamp around it...
then you could pour like half a quart in there and cap it all off so it doesn't run dry
then you could pour like half a quart in there and cap it all off so it doesn't run dry
as for your ps pump, you could find a rubber plumbing cap and hose clamp for the top, a threaded pipe cap for the preasure line and for the return, a small amount of return line with a bolt stuck in the end and a small hose clamp around it...
then you could pour like half a quart in there and cap it all off so it doesn't run dry
Would that deadhead the pump....is it a positive displacement type
pump? That's my big concern is that it don't build enough pressure to blow fluid all over the headers
What about hooking up a line from the pressure port to a return port, then plug the other return port, and put a cap on the reservoir?
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
Not sure if the pump needs to work that way, however your solution will solve that.
Got my evac can and fresh air supply can back from my welder fab guy. He TIG'd em and they look nicer than I could have done with my MIG.
the fresh air can. Simple with a filtered breather, and each bottom port will go to the small tubing nipples on the valve covers, toward the back of the V.C.
The evac can has two internal baffles in it, and the top port will connect to a PCV then to the base of the carb.
The valve covers with breather/separators toward the front, and the fresh air intake hookup to the rear.
Those headers are beef
I've been looking at my front 60 more considering how to truss it from knuckle to knuckle....just don't see a good way to get all the way out there on top or below.
The top has the spring plates to contend with, and the bottom the u bolts, which I would like to be able to remove if needed.
I was smoking my brain on how to tie in the spring plates, with the truss, but again still have them removable.
The top has the spring plates to contend with, and the bottom the u bolts, which I would like to be able to remove if needed.
I was smoking my brain on how to tie in the spring plates, with the truss, but again still have them removable.
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i generally like overkill, but as 'fat' as this thing already is I have a hard time believing you want it to fly too? I may own my D60 for another 30 years, and it'll never get trussed. I just don't see the return vs. the cost and the time.
Just my 2 cents...
rene
Just my 2 cents...
rene
BUDDY
1/2 ton status
I agree with Rene'.
But if you are locked in to trussing the front axle over the top, then It would probably be worth it to link it up with coil overs & build your lower mount into the truss.
To truss a d60 on leafs would be pretty difficult, not to mention it wouldn't "fly" very well, or for very long. That's why coil overs are so popular in baja.
Ask ktmoutfront about his setup. His blazer is one of my favorites that I've seen & he's running a 10 bolt up front.
Later,
Buddy
But if you are locked in to trussing the front axle over the top, then It would probably be worth it to link it up with coil overs & build your lower mount into the truss.
To truss a d60 on leafs would be pretty difficult, not to mention it wouldn't "fly" very well, or for very long. That's why coil overs are so popular in baja.
Ask ktmoutfront about his setup. His blazer is one of my favorites that I've seen & he's running a 10 bolt up front.
Later,
Buddy
planned flight isn't in the plans, but sometimes the momentum going up a dune hill, and the sharp breakover carries the front up to get a little air.
I guess this would be more of a preventive measure (insurance) that I don't break a tube on the center section.
And as cool as coils sound, I don't think I'm ready to jump into that realm right now.
I guess this would be more of a preventive measure (insurance) that I don't break a tube on the center section.
And as cool as coils sound, I don't think I'm ready to jump into that realm right now.
Honestly I'm not a fan of welded trusses. I like the idea of a removable truss. Also I have concerns of all that welding warping the axle tubes. You can build a stout truss that is removable IMHO. Thats the route I'm going when I'm at that point. Just my .02 cents.
got any ideas on your design?
I was looking at it more today, and a removable unit that would clamp around each axle tube at the knuckle, and tie into the spring plates, and the center section may be doable somehow. I'll be burning the brain on that one.
meanwhile, I got my PCV/Breather systems hooked up today with a makeshift support for them (they will be mounted on the firewall in the truck), and got the fan/waterpump pulley spaced right for alignment of the belt, and got the PS pump hoses hooked up enough to run the engine.
The pressure line (metal hard line) makes a loop under the frame back to the bottom of the reservoir, and the other return reservoir line is plugged with a hose. The top of the reservoir has a hose on it for now. I spun the pump by hand and it seems noisy in one direction, but not the other (direction of rotation as installed).
I need to hook up the Battery, starter, ignition, radiator support and radiator, radiator hoses, and a few other miscellaneous items before firing it up.
So keep in mind I'm a tard when it comes to electrical, and need some ideas to fire it up.
I can run a pos cable from the battery, to the starter solenoid main lug, and a negative from batt to the engine block for ground.
Can I run a pos 12 ga. wire to a simple on/off switch and then to the solenoid to activate the starter?
How can I hook up the stock HEI ignition to work for this also?
I was looking at it more today, and a removable unit that would clamp around each axle tube at the knuckle, and tie into the spring plates, and the center section may be doable somehow. I'll be burning the brain on that one.
meanwhile, I got my PCV/Breather systems hooked up today with a makeshift support for them (they will be mounted on the firewall in the truck), and got the fan/waterpump pulley spaced right for alignment of the belt, and got the PS pump hoses hooked up enough to run the engine.
The pressure line (metal hard line) makes a loop under the frame back to the bottom of the reservoir, and the other return reservoir line is plugged with a hose. The top of the reservoir has a hose on it for now. I spun the pump by hand and it seems noisy in one direction, but not the other (direction of rotation as installed).
I need to hook up the Battery, starter, ignition, radiator support and radiator, radiator hoses, and a few other miscellaneous items before firing it up.
So keep in mind I'm a tard when it comes to electrical, and need some ideas to fire it up.
I can run a pos cable from the battery, to the starter solenoid main lug, and a negative from batt to the engine block for ground.
Can I run a pos 12 ga. wire to a simple on/off switch and then to the solenoid to activate the starter?
How can I hook up the stock HEI ignition to work for this also?
You could just use a wire from the battery to the dist? BTW that engine is looking good!! NICE WORK MAN!!
magik235
Still Alive
The BATT terminal on the distributor cap gets switched voltage. Hot to run, off to stop the motor.
