77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

[76zimmer]

I'm in a pickle about this, what about that front shackle/hanger setup? I don't have all the weight on the chassis obviously, but I need to make this right before I get the frame boxing done....

Pretty straight right now, which isn't good...

and with the headers in the position they are, it creates a problem moving the hangers on the pass side:

and the drivers side:

Too close for comfort for me... what can I do?
Get longer springs and do a B52...$$$$, and more delays?
get about an inch or two longer spring to move the shackle angle back more?
any ideas?

 

[max 02]

Not sure about your problem, but that looks trick sitting out like that.
Is that pic from today? NICE day. I got to go and push snow on the yard, and it`s a nice -20c for me right now.

 

[Recon!]

I'm thinking they will be fine once you get everything on the frame. My rear shackle angle looks borderline but it rides like a dream, my front is crap because of the pro comp lift springs. Of course the front rides like crap, but I think it's more to do with the springs and shocks than the shackle angle.

I say wait on getting new springs and B52's until you get all the weight on them, just in case your fears are unfounded and you don't have any wasted money.

 

[blazinzuk]

Not sure Dave I need to stew on this for a bit

 

[howdiy]

Whats the distance between the the front hanger and the rear upper hanger?

 

[blazinzuk]

If you turn the bolt around will that give enough clearance to move the hangers?

 

[76zimmer]

Not sure about your problem, but that looks trick sitting out like that.
Is that pic from today? NICE day. I got to go and push snow on the yard, and it`s a nice -20c for me right now.

No Max, we got about 6" on the ground right now. I think it was in Oct. when I took that pic. It was a trial fit of the tires

I'm thinking they will be fine once you get everything on the frame. My rear shackle angle looks borderline but it rides like a dream, my front is crap because of the pro comp lift springs. Of course the front rides like crap, but I think it's more to do with the springs and shocks than the shackle angle.
I say wait on getting new springs and B52's until you get all the weight on them, just in case your fears are unfounded and you don't have any wasted money.

I know I got to get it to squat more in the front. A straight shackle angle isn't good at ride height. I can see another 300 lbs. on the front, plus body weight too. Maybe that'll make it drop an inch or so?

Whats the distance between the the front hanger and the rear upper hanger?

The DIY4X hangers are in the stock location. Not sure what the measurement is between them

If you turn the bolt around will that give enough clearance to move the hangers?

It will help Eric, but I think I need longer shackles too, which will push that drivers side a little closer to the collector, not as bad as the pass side though.....

The pass side I can swap ends of the bolt to allow a little more clearance where it is, but if I move the hanger forward it will be a lot closer to the header collector.

 

[76zimmer]

Maybe I can take a leaf or two out, and try to ratchet the front end down between the axle and frame to see what happens with a lower ride height?

 

[COCHEV]

I'm in a pickle about this, what about that front shackle/hanger setup? I don't have all the weight on the chassis obviously, but I need to make this right before I get the frame boxing done....

Pretty straight right now, which isn't good...

slotted mags...dool...sorry, i have no technical advice

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Got sandbags?

 

[76zimmer]

slotted mags...dool...sorry, i have no technical advice

, I'm diggin' em too.

Got sandbags?

Yep, I got a winch mount front bumper I can put on it, then pile stuff on...

 

[blazinzuk]

Honostly I would not waste time weighting stuff down, its a pretty regular thing for that front shackle to be straight up and down or even angled just slightly forward(the wrong direction) with just about any lift spring.

Your motor is all poly mounts right?

You might have to have them super close, I would put the top bolt pretty darn close without much worry. Its the lower bolt I would worry about. It moves around alot

 

[76zimmer]

Alright Eric, I've been doing some more thinking too....I'll leave it alone for now.
The engine is Kerts mounts, with the poly. Its the lower bolts I'm worried about too. I know they can move alot with the axle twisting on the shackles. I got the poly bushings in the springs too.
I would like to get the frame stuff done before April, so when the body is on, it can be left on. I will get as much done to the frame as possible before then in prep for what we have going on when you get here.

 

[76zimmer]

Been working on a new completion list and rethinking the order of tasks:

IRON MAIDEN TASK COMPLETION LIST​

Break in engine……call Jerry Arnold for spring change... DONE

Check t/c output angle... DONE

Make transfer case cradle and crossmembers...DONE

Weld rear axle tubes... DONE

Remount rear brake calipers for proper positioning...DONE

Mount rear axle truss ... DONE

Check and modify rear pinion angle... PARTIALLY DONE

Mount anti wrap kit to axle/frame... FINISH WELD WHEN PINION ANGLE IS FINALIZED...ADD GUSSET TO BARS

Figure suspension travel rear...DONE


Figure and Fab shock mounting rear...DONE


Route exhaust system... ..... DONE


Modify frame rail @ rear fuel line....DONE


Modify fuel tank for filler neck....DONE

Install fuel pickup system


Figure, route and fabricate rear brakelines/proportioning valve/parking valve.....DONE


Figure midframe skidplate mounting....DONE


Figure gas tank skidplate mounting....DONE


Fab rear recovery points....GAUNTLET BUMPER


Fab rear tiedown brackets....DONE

REMOVE DRIVETRAIN/STRIP FRAME​

Remove front bumpstop brackets

Clearance around pass side header

Weld nuts for skid plates mounting


Sandblast and zinc coat inside of frame rails


Weld up frame boxing kit, tack weld area around FUSH.


Sandblast frame


Clean and seam seal any double layered plates


Paint frame..zinc outside frame rails for welding

Major component completion​

..................Engine:​

Align crankshaft pulley​

Install temp sender​

Install oil pressure sender​

Valve cover venting​

Vacuum advance source​

.....................Transmission:​

TH400, install trans temp sender unit and check T400 worksheet, and Direct drum measurement​

Torque convertor cover mounting holes​

Shifter cable hookup​

Check pan seal​

Install dipstick tube​

Install oil cooler line fittings​

......................203/205 Doubler:​

Dis-assemble the 205 for replacement of the front output, add a spacer, replace the shifter rails w/ ORD rails for triple stick

mount triple stick brackets


Fab and install transfer case venting system

Locktite everything doubler related.


....................Rear 14BFF axle:

Install truss/Antiwrap mounting plates/rear cover​

Finish weld Antiwrap bars, and add gusset


Install pinion guard

Sandblast and zinc


....................Front Dana 60 axle:


Fabricate and install front axle truss


check wheel studs for proper fit


check all lugnuts for proper application

Major drivetrain component install

Clean and paint body underside

Body back on frame and Build week begins:​

Figure Rock rails and roll cage mounting points....build week


Cage installation.... build week

Keep in mind Gauntlet rear bumper brackets....build week


Seating.... build week

Seat belts.... build week


Shifter mounting .... build week

Weld on roll cage tie in plates....build week


Rock sliders .... build week

Mini Boat side .... build week


Figure and Fab engine cage and front shock mounting(shock hoops to front cage bars)....build week


Figure suspension travel front.....build week


Check front shackle angle....build week


Check front pinion angle....build week

Figure & Fab bumpstops....build week


Figure front tie down bracket placement....build week

Figure and Fab travel limiters....build week


Grab handles.... build week


Cup holders .... build week

Driver reachable storage.... build week


Weld on mounts for Spring limiting blocks (for trailering to limit suspension travel)....build week

Mount rear gauntlet bumper.... build week

Mount front winch bumper.... build week


Install radiator, and windstar fans and wiring....build week


Finalize rear suspension/pinion angle....build week

Final weld rear shock mounting.... build week​

Final weld rear spring perches.... build week

Paint rear axle/springs/all brackets/shackles etc.... build week

Misc. items​

Figure oil coolers mounting

Figure trans oil filter mounting

Install late model steering box

Install crossover steering


Figure trans temp guage placement and needs


Fab and install axle and t/c venting system


Figure battery cable layout


Fabricate battery mount

Install battery master shutoff

Install remote starter solenoid

Run Battery cables

Mount 9.5XP winch

Install winch fairlead

Figure winch cable routing


Fab and Mount midframe skid plate

Fab and Mount fuel tank skid plate


Route and fabricate front brake lines

Fabricate oil coolers lines

Figure routing for PS/hydroboost hoses/ Make hoses

Fab a mount for Hi-Lift

Fab a mount for fire extinguishers

Fab mounts for coolers, spareparts, and toolbox.

 

[toner91]

Wow. I think I'll just copy this for my blazer and add/delete a few things. This would save me a lot of time. So.... how long before it's all done? A few weeks?(poke, poke)

 

[76zimmer]

Hoping its usable by the 1st of June. That'll give me a few weeks before running it at Silver Lake over the 4th of July.
I was hoping someone would use that list as a starting point for their own project.
I find it helps me not forget stuff.

 

[BGKYK5]

What front springs do you have? Are they pretty soft? As long as they aren't super stiff lift springs I'll bet you end of up a decent shackle angle once you get all the weight on. A longer shackle will make your shackle angle worse...

 

[76zimmer]

I will wait it out for now, maybe try to cycle the suspension in the near future and see what I got then. I know if it settles an inch or two that would help a bit, as long as I can get the shackle bottom pointed towards the back, so the shackle actually does its job of compressing when the spring rises, instead of just sending a shockwave straight up the shackle and to the frame, making it harsh.

I think my springs are Superlift 6", they are 5 leaf as is. I may be try to move the shackle mount forward, if it looks feasible.

 

[folkenheath]

Dave, what I would do is buy stover nuts, the all metal locking nuts, which are thinner than the nylon lock nuts. Then, cut the bolt off flush with the nut. Because I think the nylon nut that close to the header collector is not going to do anything anyway, they are limited at like 250 deg or something.

Also, I would not flip the bolt around if it's going to be blocked by the header, , the head is not much thinner than a stover nut, and you don't want to have to remove the header just to replace a shackle bushing.

Also, it's looking good Dave, I know you can have it working this summer....


"YOU CAN DO IT" (with a Rob Snyder voice)

I may be up for a meet and greet depending on the schedule that week.

 

[max 02]

Could you bend the headers in alittle to give you more room?
Or would that give problems with the starter getting to hot?
Also those headers look $$$ so maybe you wouldn`t like to do that.

I`m happy you got snow, makes me feel better
I should have looked at the trees in your pic and seen the fall colours