CK5
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"Fits: cans, bottles and kuzis" awesome kuzis!!!!

and that sucks on the shock hopefully you can get a new one
 
Seems kind of scary that it would break like that, theres not much holding it on.
 
Man, I fail to check in for a week and there are 60+ new posts in this thread! (and only 37 of them were about cup holders). :rolleyes:

Keep up the good work! :D
 
I called them a bit ago, and a replacement will be sent out today, and an authorization for return is being generated also.

I got them here....about the best price I found shipped.

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/bst_5150.cfm

Not to thrilled about having to pay return shipping on an item that was broke when I got it. That's their policy......well it SUCKS:mad:
It cost me 13.31 to send it back so I left it all oily in the cardboard box, and put it in a plastic wrap they sent it in...that should be as much fun to open as when I got it that way. Buttmunch.
 
Not to thrilled about having to pay return shipping on an item that was broke when I got it. That's their policy......well it SUCKS:mad:
It cost me 13.31 to send it back so I left it all oily in the cardboard box, and put it in a plastic wrap they sent it in...that should be as much fun to open as when I got it that way. Buttmunch.

Next time use duct tape!
 
Not to thrilled about having to pay return shipping on an item that was broke when I got it. That's their policy......well it SUCKS:mad:
It cost me 13.31 to send it back so I left it all oily in the cardboard box, and put it in a plastic wrap they sent it in...that should be as much fun to open as when I got it that way. Buttmunch.

Yeah I would be PIIIIIIIIISSED. You didn't order a broken shock, you ordered a good one, if they want it back it's their problem. If I had to pay to send it back I would be sending both of them back and getting them somewhere else.
 
Nice....Hey on your recommendation I got a couple new lenses for my cheapie helmet, much better vision now, and also ordered this last night:

Heavymetalhelmet.jpg


Detailed specs for Lincoln 2450 Heavy Metal Viking Welding Helmet
  • Speed: 1/25,000 seconds
  • Control: 9-13 / Internal Control
  • Magnifying “Cheater” Capable Lens: Yes
  • Grind Mode Shade Control: 3.5 / Internal Control
  • Light Sensitivity Control: Continuous
  • Arc Sensors: 4
  • TIG Amp Rating: >3 Amp DC, >5 Amp AC
  • Delay Control - Dark to Light (sec): 0.10-1.0 Fully Adjustable
  • Cartridge Size (inches): US 5.25 x 4.50
  • View Size (inches): 3.88 x 2.44
  • Weight (oz): 20
 
Nice....Hey on your recommendation I got a couple new lenses for my cheapie helmet, much better vision now, and also ordered this last night:

Heavymetalhelmet.jpg


Detailed specs for Lincoln 2450 Heavy Metal Viking Welding Helmet
  • Speed: 1/25,000 seconds
  • Control: 9-13 / Internal Control
  • Magnifying “Cheater” Capable Lens: Yes
  • Grind Mode Shade Control: 3.5 / Internal Control
  • Light Sensitivity Control: Continuous
  • Arc Sensors: 4
  • TIG Amp Rating: >3 Amp DC, >5 Amp AC
  • Delay Control - Dark to Light (sec): 0.10-1.0 Fully Adjustable
  • Cartridge Size (inches): US 5.25 x 4.50
  • View Size (inches): 3.88 x 2.44
  • Weight (oz): 20


Nice dave it sure does make a difference :thumb:
 
yeah even the old helmet with new lenses made a difference, but I'm anxious to try this one out now...saweet.
 
Yeah, this thing is a whole new world.
With my stick welder I had an old flop down type helmet.
When I bought my MIG, I got an auto darkening, now that I have this Lincoln Viking Heavy Metal helmet its another huge step up in helmets.

Ironmaiden137.jpg



All I got accomplished today was this short section of line, flared 4 ends. How does that work you ask, when there is only 3 flares in the pic? Well I forgot to put the flare nut on the previous line before I flared it, so had to cut off that short section, and start over.
I put the stainless ball valve in for a parking brake....that handle will come off, and a reach rod will come down underneath the drivers seat. I had to have something to hold the valve in place on the frame, so I cut a small rectangle in the frame for the valve body to sit in and keep it from moving, then used an extra set of Ujoint girdle caps to hold it in place. All 4 holes had to be drilled and tapped for 5/16-24 thread. Another minor accomplishment for so much time put in.


I started running the brake lines on post 1387 for reference:


Ironmaiden135.jpg


Ironmaiden136.jpg


So where have you mounted your Adjustable Proportioning Valve, in the line to the rears?
 
what are the red hold downs on the valve?


An extra set of Ujoint girdle caps I had laying around :D
They hold it firmly in place along with the cut out rectangle in the frame, that the base of the valve sits in!
 
That seems like an expensive way to do it with those billet u-joint caps, wouldn't you be better off using u-bolts or something, then you wouldn't have to tap the frame either. By the way, are those for 1350 size? Would they happen to fit a 14BFF yoke?
 
That seems like an expensive way to do it with those billet u-joint caps, wouldn't you be better off using u-bolts or something, then you wouldn't have to tap the frame either. By the way, are those for 1350 size? Would they happen to fit a 14BFF yoke?

They were like $20 if I recall, and they were just lying around, not being used....the problem with a Ubolt is the frame will be boxed in, so unable to get to the nuts.
Yes they are for 1350 sized....bought them for the Vette, but it was too tight to use them on the rear of the driveshaft.
 
They were like $20 if I recall, and they were just lying around, not being used....the problem with a Ubolt is the frame will be boxed in, so unable to get to the nuts.
Yes they are for 1350 sized....bought them for the Vette, but it was too tight to use them on the rear of the driveshaft.

Hmm, where did you get those, I have been wanting a pair for the 14BFF since those are straps but I haven't been able to find them.
 
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