Good progress Dave, still shooting for this summer? Keep in mind it will be difficult to do the shock hoops without the steering shaft and brake booster/master cylinder in place, depending on what you are putting on.
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
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Good progress Dave, still shooting for this summer? Keep in mind it will be difficult to do the shock hoops without the steering shaft and brake booster/master cylinder in place, depending on what you are putting on.
Yep, thats one thing I still need to figure before pulling the body back off this weekend. The hydro boost, M/C, are in place, and I can mock a steering column in place again for placement.
In addition, I still need to change my front shackles, rear shocks, put on the big tires, and cycle the suspension again to check movement of the shock body on the dr. side for interference.
I have plans of taking it to BB11, so yeah I gotta kick it hard...so much summer stuff going on to interfere with it too.
In addition, I still need to change my front shackles, rear shocks, put on the big tires, and cycle the suspension again to check movement of the shock body on the dr. side for interference.
I have plans of taking it to BB11, so yeah I gotta kick it hard...so much summer stuff going on to interfere with it too.
I got a body dolly built, and ready for transport to the bodyshop....
I put a big tire on today and stuffed it, and got about 6" from top of the spring plate to the frame and the same from the spring to the pitman arm, so how much freeplay should I have so the shock doesn't bottom out? I still need to put the longer shackles on too.
I played around with shock mounting from the stock D60 mount and making a hoop to clear the steering shaft, but don't like where the bottom mount puts it so, I think I'll make a mount on top of the axle housing. It will move the shock to a better position all through the stroke of it. I need to cut off the steering arm from the stock kingpin cap.
Using the stock lower mount:
I put a big tire on today and stuffed it, and got about 6" from top of the spring plate to the frame and the same from the spring to the pitman arm, so how much freeplay should I have so the shock doesn't bottom out? I still need to put the longer shackles on too.
I played around with shock mounting from the stock D60 mount and making a hoop to clear the steering shaft, but don't like where the bottom mount puts it so, I think I'll make a mount on top of the axle housing. It will move the shock to a better position all through the stroke of it. I need to cut off the steering arm from the stock kingpin cap.
Using the stock lower mount:
Depends on your bumpstop. I don't know if mine is correct, but it works, I only left about a 1/2" or less of extra shock travel after the bumpstop was solid contact. Then just set your bumpstop so that it limits the travel to before that point. However, if your bumpstops are soft you will want additional room after that, because you can only guess when they will stop compressing. This is another good thing about air bumps, you know exactly when they reach there endpoint, just do mockup without nitrogen in them.
What kind of bumpstops are you running Dave I forget, that depends on how you set up your shock. The really long ones that come on newer superdutys I will leave just over an inch of travel at the shock, more solid ones about half an inch, If you get them from a newer silvarado or xterra you need to leave an inch and a half cause those will compress, timbrins are similiar to the xterra ones.
Whereever you plan on full bump being, i.e. the suspension cannot move anymore up I try to still leave a half inch or so.
Whereever you plan on full bump being, i.e. the suspension cannot move anymore up I try to still leave a half inch or so.
Heath, you got a pic of your setup?
Right now I'm thinking of just using something quick and simple to get it usable....don't have time for me to think about how to make a bumpstop setup and burn another week or two doing that....it takes me too long to figure out how I want to do things and turn those thoughts into execution.
This is with the lowers mounted right at the outermost part of the "C", which get the shock outboard of the steering shaft and stuff. I had more clearance issues around the AC stuff on the passenger side. Having the shocks mounted vertical and as far outboard as possible is about the best way for them to be mounted.
No shock in that pic, but the topside of mounts right behind the cross bar. Here is the pass side with a shock so you get a better idea.
Rene
No shock in that pic, but the topside of mounts right behind the cross bar. Here is the pass side with a shock so you get a better idea.
Rene
thanks Rene' still dig the green metallic paint job on your setup.
I made up some brackets from something I got from Kert and will probably mount them on the outermost portion of the tube, right next to the "C". Looks like it will provide good clearance, and I'll also run the tube on the engine cage.
I made up some brackets from something I got from Kert and will probably mount them on the outermost portion of the tube, right next to the "C". Looks like it will provide good clearance, and I'll also run the tube on the engine cage.
swedester
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made this up today and checked out the clearances and stroke after tacked in position....also checked out my fender mods.
Off with the old mount
And positioning the new lower mount, I made these out of a couple of Kerts' builders tabs
and the shock position and upper tube mount
Stuffed as far as I dared go without rolling it, still have 3" of travel on the down side.
Off with the old mount
And positioning the new lower mount, I made these out of a couple of Kerts' builders tabs
and the shock position and upper tube mount
Stuffed as far as I dared go without rolling it, still have 3" of travel on the down side.
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Pretty fun trying to collapse those shocks by yourself for mounting huh? Looks good so far, see how many "room issues" that shock position solves? No screwing around making compromises near the steering shaft etc etc. It just makes your inner fenders a little more interesting.
Rene
Rene
looking Bad azz manI like the front wheel opening too. You'll be taking the "Maiden" voyage sooner than you think if ya stay at this pace
Man, the body is coming off again in the next couple days, so I got a sh!tload of stuff to get done still Rick....I'll be glad to get it fired again
Your right Rene', I was trying to tilt em back toward the firewall with the stock lower mounting, and it just wasn't coming together like I wanted. Having to make a hoop mount to the top of the frame wasn't appealing to me anymore either. I looked at the inner fender, and decided by just making a slot (about 4" wide and 6" deep) I can make rubber boots to cover the holes (when I do run inners)
I really like the small bar attached to the engine cage too. It keeps the frame area a little cleaner, allowing good access to plugs and wires.
Trying to collapse em wasn't bad, I put a clotheshanger attached to each end of it to hold the length I wanted for mounting.
I have the shock tilted forward a few degrees also, but its pretty much straight up and down otherwise.
Dave if I ever ever go that far with the Jimmy I am copying those mounts off the engine cage, super cool man, super cool.
Most all my pics I posted inb my thread, are you looking for something specific? I see you are already done with the front mounts and they look pretty darn good, so I don't think you need any more pics anyway?
Good job. It looks like your front leaf still has a little more room to compress to be flat right? As long as your shock isn't bottomed out before your spring is flat you are probably good. Then just set your bump stop up to be compressed before your shock bottoms out. Bumps will compress those springs a lot further than articulation will I think.
