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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
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I got the fuel tank the way I want it finally...had to modify the floor so the rollover/vent line didn't interfere with it, then got the engine fired up today to run, and check everything for leaks....NONE!
Added another qt of PS fluid, another gallon of antifreeze/deionized water, and another 6 qts of trans fluid.
The engine fans are wired up and working great/ the dash cluster is partially working (tach, temp and oil)


HELP

We can't get the amp gauge to read anything. the output of the alternator is 14.3, but the single small gauge wire isn't giving any signal....is this the one that supplies the guage in the cluster? Also the fuel gauge isn't reading right. I got about 8-10 gal in the 25 gal tank, but it reads full.
Single wire to frame for ground, and a wire to the sending unit up to the cluster, but no reading.


The more I hear this engine the more I like it. Cant wait to try it out!
 
do you have an ammeter or a volt gauge?

Check ohms on the tank 0 ohms empty, 90 ohms full. Its possible you could have a bad sender.
 
If you actually have an ammeter get rid of it, just run a volt gauge. No reason to run all that current through your dash or worry about isolators, etc.

Also, something I noticed, is that rubber fuel line you are using in your tank rated for "submersible" use? Because if it isn't it's going to get soft and fall apart. Standard rubber fuel line is not able to withstand fuel on the outside of it for extended periods of time.

And I hope this little pickups aren't going to starve that big block and make it go lean. :waytogo:

Also, you see that little white bobble thing just under your sending units lid that you have plugged above it? That is a check/vent valve.

Getting so close Dave, I can't wait to see that thing drive!
 
i'll bet the farm you nuked it.. freakin volt meter's shouldn't even have a send post on em... if you put 12 volts to anything other than the pos post, YOU WILL FRY THE GAUGE...
 
The serious question that needs to be asked.

Do you need a volt gauge? Certainly it would be nice, do you need a fuel gauge. Absolutely not ( at least for blazer bash) Just fill up every morning. :D

What I am trying to say is don't burn a day getting the voltmeter working you can get it working later. Same with the fuel gauge. You got temp and oil pressure. Possibly get an aftermarket voltmeter if you want too, get a cheapie and wire it in really quick.

Not a whole lot of time before BB:eek1: don't burn up days with stuff you don't absolutely need.

You gotta get a motor partially broke in. Drive the truck a bit just to make sure everything is good, find a place to actually put it in 4wd and flex it a bit before the trip.

I am pretty sure you know all of this Dave it just makes me feel better saying it.

See ya in a couple weeks!
 
blazinzuk said:
do you have an ammeter or a volt gauge?

Check ohms on the tank 0 ohms empty, 90 ohms full. Its possible you could have a bad sender.
Click to expand...

Have a volt gage, and your right Eric, not really needed but my electrical buddy can't figure out why we aren't getting a value to send to the gage (or something like that) the alternator is putting out plenty, but the small gage wire that comes off the alternator isn't giving a reading and its buggin him....

folkenheath said:
If you actually have an ammeter get rid of it, just run a volt gauge. No reason to run all that current through your dash or worry about isolators, etc.

Also, something I noticed, is that rubber fuel line you are using in your tank rated for "submersible" use? Because if it isn't it's going to get soft and fall apart. Standard rubber fuel line is not able to withstand fuel on the outside of it for extended periods of time.

And I hope this little pickups aren't going to starve that big block and make it go lean. :waytogo:

Also, you see that little white bobble thing just under your sending units lid that you have plugged above it? That is a check/vent valve.

Getting so close Dave, I can't wait to see that thing drive!
Click to expand...

Volt gage Heath, and yes fuel submersible hose....The Walbros are said to have enough flow to feed a healthy BBC...the lines for each pickup are 5/16, and they tee into a 1/2" line coming up to the sending unit, then 1/2 up to the carb. The needle and seat in the carb are oversized but still are only like .194 or something as I recall. I know about the factory check valve, but it won't serve as a rollover shutoff though, I needed to incorporate that in my setup. Spilling gas when your upside down isn't a good feeling.


blazinzuk said:
The serious question that needs to be asked.

Do you need a volt gauge? Certainly it would be nice, do you need a fuel gauge. Absolutely not ( at least for blazer bash) Just fill up every morning. :D

What I am trying to say is don't burn a day getting the voltmeter working you can get it working later. Same with the fuel gauge. You got temp and oil pressure. Possibly get an aftermarket voltmeter if you want too, get a cheapie and wire it in really quick.

Not a whole lot of time before BB:eek1: don't burn up days with stuff you don't absolutely need.

You gotta get a motor partially broke in. Drive the truck a bit just to make sure everything is good, find a place to actually put it in 4wd and flex it a bit before the trip.

I am pretty sure you know all of this Dave it just makes me feel better saying it.

See ya in a couple weeks!
Click to expand...

Believe me Eric, I'm on the NEEDS, not wants right now....this was just an inquiry for my buddy....I told him as long as we're making juice, that was good, but....I'm wondering if I can make the trifecta on a tank (25gal)???? This thing seems pretty thirsty:whistle:
Engine is broken in, cam has had its breakin, and the engine has been run about an hour now....Moly rings seat really quick, all I need to do is change the oil....and snort more racing gas....

did I mention that buying gas at 6.90/gal the dollars go by like seconds on an E.T. clock....dayum.

Today, I got the front seats put in, the steering wheel on, the gage cluster temporarily attached to the dash, and the cable routed for the shifter....Can someone tell me what stick does what on the triple stick....left to right, forward and backward, what functions do each have????
 
76zimmer said:
...Can someone tell me what stick does what on the triple stick....left to right, forward and backward, what functions do each have????
Click to expand...

Closest to you is the doubler up for low and down for high.
Next it the rear axle and again up for low and down for high.
Last one is front axle, up for low and down for high.

Wow your moving right along:thumb:
 
sixb said:
Closest to you is the doubler up for low and down for high.
Next it the rear axle and again up for low and down for high.
Last one is front axle, up for low and down for high.

Wow your moving right along:thumb:
Click to expand...

Very cool, I'll try to remember that, UP=LOW/ DOWN=HIGH

kgblazerfive said:
unless its a drivers drop then its all backwards :whistle:
Click to expand...
that would fit me good, I'm feeling backwards right now:doah:
 
kgblazerfive said:
unless its a drivers drop then its all backwards :whistle:
Click to expand...

Your the only backwards one here Keith:D

Dave don't worry about the fuel, I will fill my tank and if you run out we can just transfer some. I still have the 31 gallon tank although I have never seen a blazer or pickup run out of fuel on that trail. Even with the 16 gallon shortbed fuel tank

Why are you buying fuel at 6.90 a gallon, super high octane race gas?
 
blazinzuk said:
Your the only backwards one here Keith:D

Dave don't worry about the fuel, I will fill my tank and if you run out we can just transfer some. I still have the 31 gallon tank although I have never seen a blazer or pickup run out of fuel on that trail. Even with the 16 gallon shortbed fuel tank

Why are you buying fuel at 6.90 a gallon, super high octane race gas?
Click to expand...


Just cuz....bought 5 gallons of it, and mixed in 5 gal of 89 with it....it smells so good!

I'll run on premium from here on out though.
 
76zimmer said:
Just cuz....bought 5 gallons of it, and mixed in 5 gal of 89 with it....it smells so good!

I'll run on premium from here on out though.
Click to expand...

LOL yes me loves the smell of race gas in the morning and the mid morning and afternoon, dinnertime, evening at night and all the inbetween times
 
Nice Eric....I usually like to start a new HP motor up on racing gas....it blends nicely with the breakin smells of the engine.

So what size nut does a 32 spline 205 output take? I can't find one, and tried to pick one up today with no luck????? Is it 7/8 fine thread, and does it interchange with anything on a 203 or 14bff or a 60?
 
cybrfire said:
You hooking the voltmeter directly to the alt.?
Click to expand...

hmmmm, well I got the factory printed circuit on the gauge cluster, and stock wiring to the firewall plug, and I believe factory wiring out to the alt. I got an adapter to adapt the newer 105amp alt to the 1977 factory plug.
 
all that matters with the volt is to not power the send post.. you can take the 12v from anywhere really, but the reading will be affected by how downstream it is from the source..
 
76zimmer said:
hmmmm, well I got the factory printed circuit on the gauge cluster, and stock wiring to the firewall plug, and I believe factory wiring out to the alt. I got an adapter to adapt the newer 105amp alt to the 1977 factory plug.
Click to expand...

I thought it was an aftermarket instrument. I couldn't be 100% sure where the factory volt gauge is connected to the factory harness. As far as I know it only needs a keyed ignition source.
 
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