77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

[Teck]

Yes that is the one I bought. haven't finished the brakes yet, just got the front axles ready for paint this yesterday. So hopefully I will have them done in the next couple of weeks.

 

[76zimmer]

OK, Teck, please post up your results when you get it tested....I just read too, a K30 4x4 (hydro) has a 1-5/16 bore....sounds good, I may go that route too, as I'm using standard threaded fittings not metric on the m/c and lines.

 

[Teck]

Here's the only pic I have of it, showing how it cleared the hood.

 

[76zimmer]

is that a hydroboost system you got or vacuum?
I think that m/c was listed as a hydro right?

 

[Teck]

My is Vacuum. The one in that thread is vacuum but I think somebody listed a hydroboost one in that thread.

 

[Teck]

Look at post #17

 

[cybrfire]

Look at post #17

Link in that post is dead.

 

[Teck]

Sorry, didn't check it.

 

[folkenheath]

Yeah why do you need a new drum Dave? I would find that out for sure since you went to all that trouble getting that direct drum with the proper sprag surface OD.

Maybe the forward clutch seal had a cut because there is a scratch in the forward drum seal surface?

 

[76zimmer]

Yeah why do you need a new drum Dave? I would find that out for sure since you went to all that trouble getting that direct drum with the proper sprag surface OD.

Maybe the forward clutch seal had a cut because there is a scratch in the forward drum seal surface?

Alright when he said rear drum, I was thinking direct/reverse drum, evidently its the reaction carrier drum in the rear of the housing....
the offending unit:

When I described this waviness to COAN while checking my parts out, they said to resurface it with some emery cloth, and put in a new band, and check the boost valve in the pump....Well evidently it isn't doing what it should...holding when the band is applied...so this is the drum he is on the hunt for...he has taken apart 3 t400's looking for one, and didn't find one good enough, so he ordered one this AM, only problem its in Detroit, and he had to leave for Indy today by 2...so he has everything put together as much as possible for me, I just have to throw it all in the case. The drum should be in tomorrow by 2pm, just in time for me to pick it all up, and head to work, so Wed...I'll be putting the trans back together, and getting the drivetrain all together again.

Oh and he did say that everything else looked good, and the clutch clearances, endplay, etc are all great!



Today, I finished plumbing the brake system, and had to pick up a new m/c for a 78 K30....its a hydroboost unit with a 1-5/16" bore....

Part Number: NMC P2135
Product Line: Proformer Master Cylinders



Attributes: # of Line Ports : 2
Brake Master Cylinder Bore Size : 1.3125"
Brake Master Cylinder Line Thread Size : 1/2"-20, 9/16"-18
Finish : Rust-Preventative Finish
New Components : 100% New OE Quality Seals

Warranty: See Manufacturer for Warranty Information
Important Information: w/ Hydro-Boost

 

[folkenheath]

Take that thing and roll it off the bench onto the concrete. At least then you can do the drum roll with it.

Sounds like you are going to make it, did he air check the forward/direct clutches? What about the center support piston? I would air check those before you slap it together. (I only air check the center support in the case with the clutches in place) They can make mistakes too.

That 4L80E I took apart was insanely good inside. The direct drum still had the ink printed on the band surface, I don't think they ever put the selector below the OD mark. The reaction carrier you can still see the machining marks from the lathe on the outside.

 

[79rustyk10]

This makes me want to rebuild a transmission for some reason.

 

[tRustyK5]

Is it just me or do auto tranny parts have the coolest names?

Rene

 

[76zimmer]

Take that thing and roll it off the bench onto the concrete. At least then you can do the drum roll with it.

Sounds like you are going to make it, did he air check the forward/direct clutches? What about the center support piston? I would air check those before you slap it together. (I only air check the center support in the case with the clutches in place) They can make mistakes too.

That 4L80E I took apart was insanely good inside. The direct drum still had the ink printed on the band surface, I don't think they ever put the selector below the OD mark. The reaction carrier you can still see the machining marks from the lathe on the outside.

sounds like a good find on the 4L80....I will go through the GM service manual again while assembling the trans...just to make sure all the basics are covered, and that includes checking the pistons with air....also I will try to do that rear band apply pin check again, unless he's already covered that.

This makes me want to rebuild a transmission for some reason.

They are somewhat voodoo, as you can tell.
I've been into about a dozen auto's....350's/200's/400's...but just don't do them often enough to really understand them....of course that is key to making something work right..understanding what its about.
Anyway, I say go for it, just don't wait til 7 days before BB to try your first one

Is it just me or do auto tranny parts have the coolest names?

Rene

Apply pistons, reaction carriers, drums, bands....sounds like a party goin on in there.

 

[folkenheath]

Is it just me or do auto tranny parts have the coolest names?

Rene

Yeah when I was looking at the bonded forward clutch piston that was too thik, I was thinking, "damn, I need a new clutch piston". And at that moment I thought, hmm, clutch piston, that sounds like something made up, like an exhaust belt or blinker fluid.

Although I am still trying to find out if I can interchange an early AL piston for the bonded one so I can machine it down to fit another clutch in.

And Dave, yeah, rechecking the rear band apply is a good idea since you are getting a whole new reaction carrier, that was one was pretty wore so make sure you have enough clearance, do you remember the trick? How does your new band look now? Fine since it was new or did the slipping in reverse damage it already?

I have to admit Dave, the ATSG books are good for reassembly, but that Ron Sessions book had whole chapters on how everything works and what it does. And that helped tremendously on understanding it all and why modifiying stuff works.

One thing I don't understand though is, why does the forward clutch have three seals in it? I don't think there is ever a time when they only use half of it like the direct clutch (which combining those in 3rd gear makes is stronger anyway). Seams like a waste.

 

[76zimmer]

Heath, I would love to have a Ron Sessions book, but they are over 200$ now on amazon?????

Anyhow, I got the GM manual, and it seems the ATSG is just a copy of that, word for word, pic for pic.

I do have the procedure you posted about checking the apply pin for the rear band and will check it with the new reaction carrier in there. He said the band is fine.

Do you use the teflon pump seals, or the cast iron ones?



Heres some brake line pics from plumbing yesterday:

Installing the m/c today, and will try to gravity bleed today, picking up the trans and parts this afternoon, and will work on that tomorrow.

 

[folkenheath]

I use the new graphite ring seals from a 4L80E on the TH400. They are dark gray colored, and have a dual step joint kind of like a gapless piston ring but in both directions. Or you can use the cast iron, or the solid teflon rings (white speckled). But don't use the scarf cut ones. The sessions book recommends cast iron, it is plenty strong, but wears the seal surfaces more. And that book was written before the graphite seals existed.

Also, solid teflon are good, but are more of a PITA to assemble because they have to be stretched and then compressed before final assembly.

Graphite are the best of both in my opinion, but if I didn't have those I would use solid teflon (not scarf cut), and cast iron 3rd choice, all 3 are good.

 

[Teck]

Zimm, nice work. Truck is coming together real nice. Good luck on getting it all done.

 

[max 02]

Yeah!!

Go Dave go!!

Looks good! Nice work!

 

[76zimmer]

PIcked up the trans and parts today....will get on it first thing tomorrow putting it back together....

updated list 5 days and counting:


REBUILD TRANS
INSTALL TRANS
INSTALL DOUBLER...DRIVESHAFTS...SHIFTERS
HOOK UP TRANS LINES...REFILL UNITS W/FLUID
TEST DRIVE..CHECK FOR LEAKS..


Bleed brake system
Check drivetrain operation
Check suspension operation
Change oil/filter






Front Dana 60 axle:
Check caliper mounting
Check all lugnuts for proper application
Torque all fasteners



14BFF rear axle:
Torque all fasteners

Body/Frame/Suspension​

Seat belts
Install headlights, tailights, turnsignals
Complete wiring
Modify front fenders for tire clearance/Install
Install tailgate
Install Hood
Vent all drivetrain w/tubing


Misc. items

Mount front winch bumper
Mount rear bumper
Fab and Mount midframe skid plate
Fab and Mount fuel tank skid plate
Mount 9.5XP winch
Install winch fairlead
Figure winch cable routing
Mount spare tire
Install rear brake valve handle

CHECK TORQUE ALL SUSPENSION​

CHECK TORQUE ALL STEERING
CHECK TORQUE ALL DRIVETRAIN
Check tie down points on frame/suspension

__________________

Wish list​

Figure trans temp guage placement and needs
Figure Hi’lift mounting
Figure and fab mounting for coolers, spareparts, toolbox, tote bins
Fabricate 1.5” Tube grille

TOW TRUCK/TRAILER​

Install new trans cooler
Check PS cooler
Aim headlights
Check fluids in drivetrain
Check tire pressure
Load...tools..spareparts..cooler..map.
Check spare tires.
Lugwrench/jack for flat.
Install tie down rings on trailer.​