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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
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jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
No luck searching "BUNDY" Dave.
Is there a specific thread to look for?
What an I doing wrong?
Is there a specific thread to look for?
What an I doing wrong?
seems I have fried my PS pump...it was a newer GM performance parts unit, and after running the dunes and losing the fluid out of a hydro assist line, the pump isn't fairing well, making bearing noises....Go with another stock type pump or time to upgrade to a PSC? My ram seems alittle sluggish at times when the rpm is at idle, will the PSC pump take care of that?
I run the stock one and have not any issues with it.
I have the PSC pump.
At idle it still leaves a bit to be desired.
Don't expect to do any quick, panic turns.
Not sure how or if it can be improved..??
At idle it still leaves a bit to be desired.
Don't expect to do any quick, panic turns.
Not sure how or if it can be improved..??
I use the KRC power steering pump. You can adjust the steering response with the Flow Valves, this makes fine tuning easy and it works great even at idle. Not cheap but works great!
all right sounds good, maybe I'll just get another truck pump then...the pre-existing condition issue improves with a little rpm, and plenty of fluid, it was the same before putting hydro assist on as well!
Is that a custom mount type Mike....I need a serp setup (GM saginaw type?)
They come designed for both V Belt and Serpentine systems. Last pump you will buy! Will work if you ever decide to go Full Hydro also.
http://www.krcpower.com/ecommerce/aluminum-pumps/pro-series.asp
The Cast Iron pumps are cheaper.
http://www.krcpower.com/ecommerce/cast-iron-pumps/pumps-w-bolt-on-tanks.asp
http://www.krcpower.com/ecommerce/aluminum-pumps/pro-series.asp
The Cast Iron pumps are cheaper.
http://www.krcpower.com/ecommerce/cast-iron-pumps/pumps-w-bolt-on-tanks.asp
I have a PSC pump with a/n fittings on it. It doesn't seem to sluggish at idle. I did have them go through my steering box and port it. They did say something about revalving it for the extra fluid flow for the ram. I also got the field serviceable lines that go to the ram.
thanks for the tips Mike and Tech, Mike does the KRC pumps bolt on like factory mounting in a serp system, or a special mounting required...Hard to tell by looking at the pics for me???
Also Mike and John, do you know what your idle air/fuel ratio is set at? I still can't get mine to idle steady at any leaner than 13.0:1...just seems a little rich to me?
I got a little time to check it out this weekend again....went to start it up and listen for the noise to zero in on it for sure....The Yellow Optima battery was deader than a popcorn fart. Evidently I have a draw from wiring the FAST system directly to battery that has been drawing the batt down over the last 3 weeks. Being a deep cycle I put it on a 2amp setting and let it charge for 24 hours and it was back up to full, and now with a trickle charger on it again.
So FAST says ONLY to wire directly to battery. I have a kill switch in between the battery and everything else....how bout if I put the POS FAST calbe on the kill switch as well? I'm thinking I now how this system acts now directly to battery, if anything significant shows from it, I can correlate it to the wiring change. Worth a shot I think to keep from having a dead battery every 3 weeks if I forget to put a float charger on it. I'm not sure how long it took to actually run down past 12v (required minimium for the FAST system) but it showed nothing on a volt meter when checked.
And did get the engine running again, listened to it with a stethoscope and the PS pump, water pump, Alt., and two of the idler pulley sound good....one idler does sound louder than any of the others, so maybe that is where the noise is coming from? I need to get it good and hot again to test it for noise then as well to be sure, but just running it a couple minutes it sounds real good???
I will try to get my leaky line off and cut a new end on it and try to reseal it, hopefully that will take care of the leak.
One other problem that creeped up from this is a low brake pedal....assuming its in the hydro boost unit, which when I put this all together I just bleed out by using the normal PS system bleeding procedure of lifting the axle off the ground and repeatedly turning side to side with engine off, then starting engine and turning side to side slowly to work out any air...that worked very well for me. The system has always seemed a little sluggish at idle, but the brakes have been VERY good until this leak developed.
Have you guys done anything different for h/b bleeding?
Also Mike and John, do you know what your idle air/fuel ratio is set at? I still can't get mine to idle steady at any leaner than 13.0:1...just seems a little rich to me?
I got a little time to check it out this weekend again....went to start it up and listen for the noise to zero in on it for sure....The Yellow Optima battery was deader than a popcorn fart. Evidently I have a draw from wiring the FAST system directly to battery that has been drawing the batt down over the last 3 weeks. Being a deep cycle I put it on a 2amp setting and let it charge for 24 hours and it was back up to full, and now with a trickle charger on it again.
So FAST says ONLY to wire directly to battery. I have a kill switch in between the battery and everything else....how bout if I put the POS FAST calbe on the kill switch as well? I'm thinking I now how this system acts now directly to battery, if anything significant shows from it, I can correlate it to the wiring change. Worth a shot I think to keep from having a dead battery every 3 weeks if I forget to put a float charger on it. I'm not sure how long it took to actually run down past 12v (required minimium for the FAST system) but it showed nothing on a volt meter when checked.
And did get the engine running again, listened to it with a stethoscope and the PS pump, water pump, Alt., and two of the idler pulley sound good....one idler does sound louder than any of the others, so maybe that is where the noise is coming from? I need to get it good and hot again to test it for noise then as well to be sure, but just running it a couple minutes it sounds real good???
I will try to get my leaky line off and cut a new end on it and try to reseal it, hopefully that will take care of the leak.
One other problem that creeped up from this is a low brake pedal....assuming its in the hydro boost unit, which when I put this all together I just bleed out by using the normal PS system bleeding procedure of lifting the axle off the ground and repeatedly turning side to side with engine off, then starting engine and turning side to side slowly to work out any air...that worked very well for me. The system has always seemed a little sluggish at idle, but the brakes have been VERY good until this leak developed.
Have you guys done anything different for h/b bleeding?
The KRC pump bolts right on, just tell them if you have a serp or v belt Pully.
I have no special bleeding tricks other than what your did and get it warm and the air came out with the hydro boost.
I have a battery tender on mine if it sits for more than a week. I also connected a master ignition switch to it completely separate from everything else that I can shut off to isolate the computer just like what you are talking about but mine is just for the ECU and FI.
I have no special bleeding tricks other than what your did and get it warm and the air came out with the hydro boost.
I have a battery tender on mine if it sits for more than a week. I also connected a master ignition switch to it completely separate from everything else that I can shut off to isolate the computer just like what you are talking about but mine is just for the ECU and FI.
Dave I don't know how much the FAST system draws all the time but my 97 Chevy which is all stock will kill a new battery in a couple of months sitting and that is from the clock and the computer memory.
I don't know if it needs power all the time to remember the tune but I would ask them about it before I would put a disconnect.
I don't know if it needs power all the time to remember the tune but I would ask them about it before I would put a disconnect.
My master kills everything BUT the EZ-EFI computer connection right now.
The MSD box is on the kill switch too.
FAST is adamant about it being directly wired to battery, saying electrical interference may result if not wired that way....losing the tune isn't a big deal...10min. you can dial it back in from nothing! That is cool!
Dave,
Like fast says, hook the ECU right to the battery. That being said, you shouldn't lose any tune if you were to disconnect it.
I unhook my batts every time I shut it down. Every time. Tune is always the same.
Like fast says, hook the ECU right to the battery. That being said, you shouldn't lose any tune if you were to disconnect it.
I unhook my batts every time I shut it down. Every time. Tune is always the same.
That is what they insist....directly to batt....so where does the noise come in? My batt goes from the pos post to the disconnect switch about 15" of -1 welding cable between them. From there the output side of the switch goes to the front of the vehicle to a terminal post for distribution. The output side of the disconnect switch has the MSD power attached to it as well....would this cause any "noise" that the FAST would pickup, as opposed to being directly hooked up to the battery 15" away?
Dave If it is truly 15" then you are fine. Basically fast doesn't want you daisy chaining of of any other power source. And you shouldn't loose your tune unless you clear the flash.
