CK5
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(80 K25) "Nigel" 3/4Ton of Fun

Dang... I fought a u-joint on my rear driveshaft a couple years ago and ended up finding a thinner c-clip for a marine application I-joint. This would have fixed my problem a lot faster! I definitely won’t ever use a u-joint tool again.
 
I learned a valuable lesson the first time I did inner axle seals. It was that I was an idiot and that any tool can be made out of all thread. Anyway, pulled the carrier today. Finished cleaning out the axle tubes, replaced the seal, and installed the locker. I should get everything but the hubs on tomorrow. Still waiting on my spindle nuts to show up.

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Its a Spartan locker. They have worked great for me in the past. Plus I got this one for $200 new on ebay, so it was hard to pass up
That is a great deal, nice. That D60 is turning out awesome.
 
well damn. I found the first problem with this axle. Two of the bolt holes are stripped for the lower cap on my right side knuckle. I didnt clean the holes or bolts until today. Half of the threads for those two holes are still in the bolts

The question is. should I drill and tap, replacement stock knuckle, or just buy a Reid for that side? It would allow me to run the 5th stud on that steering arm.
 
well damn. I found the first problem with this axle. Two of the bolt holes are stripped for the lower cap on my right side knuckle. I didnt clean the holes or bolts until today. Half of the threads for those two holes are still in the bolts

The question is. should I drill and tap, replacement stock knuckle, or just buy a Reid for that side? It would allow me to run the 5th stud on that steering arm.
I'd helicoil it or drill and tap it up a size.
 
The bolt through the front hanger on mine is 9/16 diameter and 5" long

The shackle end of the front spring, the bolt through the frame is 9/16 diameter x 5" long (I have ORD's FUSH kit on mine.) The bolt through the spring eye/shackle is 1/2" x 5" long.
 
Who has class 3/4/5 hitches on the back of their trucks? Can you post pictures of how they mount to the frame and hang down please.

I want a hitch on this truck, and I need a gas tank skid as well. Im thinking two birds with one stone by using the hitch as the rear and side mounts for my skid plate. I am looking at This hitch. I think I should be able to bolt it up to the frame. Flip the cross bar upside down so the hitch is on top, then position it where I want and drill new side holes. After that I just trim off the excess and drill/ tap holes for the skid plate bolts. That will give me solid mounts for the rear of the skid and I can take some lighter tube or whatever to make the forward mounts and cross braces. The rear is what will see the most use anyway.

I dont really have to flip the hitch to the top, but Im thinking a flat bottom would be better than coming down on the receiver every time.
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Any tips and tricks for 14 bolt gear setup? I read the guide in the Bible, seems simple enough. I haven't been able to find the pinion nut torque with a crush sleeve eliminator.

Things I have
  • 4.56 gears
  • Master install kit
  • Crush sleeve elminiator
  • Big torque wrench for bolts
  • Dial torque wrench for pinion preload
  • Magnetic base dial
  • Press and bearing separators

Am I forgetting anything?
 
Equipment list looks good.

Torque spec on that pinion nut is up to 350lb-ft. I set mine up with shims. I think i ended up with 325ft-lbs at the 35-in-lbs preload required by new bearings. I used red loctite on the nut too.
 
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