What about some sold rubber door stops or chair pads stuck to the bottom of the battery? It would cushion and provide a gap.
CK5
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80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.
- Thread starter cybrfire
- Start date
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- squarebody-avalanche
Well, we did get it started today but I believe the lift pump has dried out and is no longer any good. Just couldn't get the pressure/flow out of it.
It really sputtered and chugged right up till we seen some diesel dripping from the lift pump.
It really sputtered and chugged right up till we seen some diesel dripping from the lift pump.
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
I'll be upgrading mine to a low pressure, high volume lift pump. These are the Cummins part numbers.
Low pressure piston lift pump - 4988751 (1)
Fuel line - 3914753 (1) same as before
Gaskets - 3939258 (2)
Spacer - 3914284 (1) same as before
Seals - 3963983 (2)
Low pressure piston lift pump - 4988751 (1)
Fuel line - 3914753 (1) same as before
Gaskets - 3939258 (2)
Spacer - 3914284 (1) same as before
Seals - 3963983 (2)
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Fun!
What is the scoop on that upgrade?
That was more of an orange haze wasn't it?
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
The current lift pump is a diaphragm style. When it fails, it can fill the crank case with fuel. In 94, the pump was switched to a piston style. The piston pump is more reliable and can deliver more fuel. It also won't leak fuel into the crank case if it fails.
The 94 - up piston pump puts out too much pressure for the VE pump. If you exceed 15 psi you risk pushing the front seal out of the injection pump. Some people have used the stock 94- pump with a regulator before. The pump I listed doesn't need a regulator. It's referred to as a high volume, low pressure piston pump. It can deliver more fuel (when you need it) and is much more reliable than a diaphragm pump is.
The 94 - up piston pump puts out too much pressure for the VE pump. If you exceed 15 psi you risk pushing the front seal out of the injection pump. Some people have used the stock 94- pump with a regulator before. The pump I listed doesn't need a regulator. It's referred to as a high volume, low pressure piston pump. It can deliver more fuel (when you need it) and is much more reliable than a diaphragm pump is.
So from reading that, this pump is safe for the VE pump engine without a regulator?
I'll keep this in mind for the future. I've already purchased a replacement factory lift pump so i'll put that one on for now.
Thanks for the tip though.
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
Yep, that pump is safe to use on the VE pump without a regulator.
Sweet.
That is one of the things I really like about having a build thread. Now that part number is there and its pretty easy to go back and look at it in the future. Otherwise there is so much information that I would never be able to remember.
How about a fast lift pump?
me too, so much info on this site...build threads are great for retaining the info of your build (when they're not full of fluff)...I refer to them often, especially my own so I can remember what the heck I did, and how I did it???
How long have you had it running? It can take a couple minutes to bleed air out of the system.
Probably just a couple minutes. Don't have any water in the block right now so I didn't have it running real long.
That is the way it is acting. As if a couple cylinders aren't firing. The popping in the exhaust I don't understand. My gas engine mentality says the timing is off.
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
12 valves will not self bleed. You have to manually bleed each injector.
Unplug the fuel solenoid and crack each injector nut loose. Have someone crank the engine until you see fuel spraying out of each injector line. Tighten each nut and then re connect the solenoid. Start the engine and while it's running crack each injector nut loose again. If you can hear that cylinder drop when you crack the nut, then it was bled. Tighten the nut and move on to the next injector. If a cylinder doesn't drop when you crack the nut then it still has air in the line. Let it spit the air out until you see fuel. When you tighten the nut. The cylinder should start firing.
Hope this helps.
Unplug the fuel solenoid and crack each injector nut loose. Have someone crank the engine until you see fuel spraying out of each injector line. Tighten each nut and then re connect the solenoid. Start the engine and while it's running crack each injector nut loose again. If you can hear that cylinder drop when you crack the nut, then it was bled. Tighten the nut and move on to the next injector. If a cylinder doesn't drop when you crack the nut then it still has air in the line. Let it spit the air out until you see fuel. When you tighten the nut. The cylinder should start firing.
Hope this helps.
