I haven't cracked the nuts loose while it was running but we did crank it over and get fuel to squirt out.
I'll try cracking them with it running.
Thanks!
CK5
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80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.
- Thread starter cybrfire
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- squarebody-avalanche
I haven't cracked the nuts loose while it was running but we did crank it over and get fuel to squirt out.
I'll try cracking them with it running.
Thanks!
mmmmm, no bueno. Non stock piece for a mission critical system.
I've self bled a lot of Cummins.
Martin
Martin
Pretty sure Stomper's rig bled on its own for the most part. It was tough to start to but much easier than this one.
Getting tons of whitish/grey smoke out of it as well. Can only let it run for a little bit and that's with the fans full blast.
It would barely stay running at first but is getting better. Still very chuggy and guessing by the way it sounds, 2 cylinders not hitting.
Getting tons of whitish/grey smoke out of it as well. Can only let it run for a little bit and that's with the fans full blast.
It would barely stay running at first but is getting better. Still very chuggy and guessing by the way it sounds, 2 cylinders not hitting.
so for those that have self bleed these engines, how long? 5 min/ 10/ 20??? I will be going through the same thing and would like to know.
My brother has worked on quite a few and he always bleeds them at the injector (usually after putting a new pump on) and said that is the best route to go.
My brother has worked on quite a few and he always bleeds them at the injector (usually after putting a new pump on) and said that is the best route to go.
I think if I'm gona need to bleed them at the injector, i'll probably go ahead and get some radiator hoses on it and get some water flowing.
I'm not comfortable running it very long without some kind of coolant through it. I can park a squirrel cage fan in front of the radiator for air flow.
I'm not comfortable running it very long without some kind of coolant through it. I can park a squirrel cage fan in front of the radiator for air flow.
Within a minute of getting it to run. I crack a few easy lines, and when the engine fires up, I tighten the lines that are lose.
Martin
Martin
Got super lucky with the Upper and Lower Radiator hoses. Ended up using the factory 1992 Dodge cummins hoses.
Radiator was pretty good alignment but had to cut the necks off the radiator and weld on bigger ones.
Got the vintage air unit installed. Looks like that's gona work out super nice. Only downside is I'm going to have to rework the air intake just a little bit to get past the AC and Heater lines that come through the firewall.
A couple more bars for the cage. Did this same one on both sides.
And it still doesn't run worth a damn. Pulled it outside last night and filled up the radiator with water so we could run it a good long while. It ran better and better until it smoothed out pretty good, not perfect. Most of the smoke went away. Shut it off for a while and it went back to the way it was before. Popping, and banging and making all kinds of smoke and won't idle.
Radiator was pretty good alignment but had to cut the necks off the radiator and weld on bigger ones.
Got the vintage air unit installed. Looks like that's gona work out super nice. Only downside is I'm going to have to rework the air intake just a little bit to get past the AC and Heater lines that come through the firewall.
A couple more bars for the cage. Did this same one on both sides.
And it still doesn't run worth a damn. Pulled it outside last night and filled up the radiator with water so we could run it a good long while. It ran better and better until it smoothed out pretty good, not perfect. Most of the smoke went away. Shut it off for a while and it went back to the way it was before. Popping, and banging and making all kinds of smoke and won't idle.
did you run it in the donor truck? Injectors maybe?
Post #50 shows the condition in which it was purchased. We did start it up right before money changed hands. It popped right off and had almost zero smoke on start up.
I think I must have screwed up and put the injection pump on wrong or more accurately, put the gear on wrong.
Continuing with the front end. Been working on the inner fender wells. Most builds with this much tube work, I'd skip the inner fender wells all together, however, this being a daily driver I want to keep them in. Gona be a bit of work to seal them up from all the holes from the tubing and shocks and what have you. I think it will turn out nice though.
Yesterday I played around with my GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) remote powered up and some preliminary testing done.
Looks like it should work out pretty slick. Has the ability to control things momentarily based on a preset timer or simple on/off commands.
Works primarily off of SMS text messages. With the phone app it simplifies the commands to a press of the touch screen.
In short, i'll be able to activate the grid heater for a preset time, start the engine, switch on lights, start the cab heater and possibly open the tailgate. Up to seven different things via cell phone.
I figure engine start up and cab heat/AC would be nice to control remotely. For me personally opening the tailgate remotely would have some value. Possibly some exterior lighting could come in handy. Beyond that, not sure what I'd want to control remotely.
Looks like it should work out pretty slick. Has the ability to control things momentarily based on a preset timer or simple on/off commands.
Works primarily off of SMS text messages. With the phone app it simplifies the commands to a press of the touch screen.
In short, i'll be able to activate the grid heater for a preset time, start the engine, switch on lights, start the cab heater and possibly open the tailgate. Up to seven different things via cell phone.
I figure engine start up and cab heat/AC would be nice to control remotely. For me personally opening the tailgate remotely would have some value. Possibly some exterior lighting could come in handy. Beyond that, not sure what I'd want to control remotely.
It will work from anywhere on the planet as long as you have cell phone service.
I can program up to 200 allowed callers although, in my application, I don't think that would be necessary.
Dave, you get the number as soon as I get a key to the vette.
Kert, Where did you get this unit, and how difficult is it hook up and program? I'm curious how difficult it would be to set it up and run the wheelchair lift equipment on both of my trucks.
I think I got it off of Amazon but don't remember for sure. Had it a while now.
So far, I haven't gotten the pulsed or time delay figured out. Supposed to be able to turn something on for a predetermined length of time. That part I'm not doing right.
Then there is one relay that you can hit with a phone call and it will recognize the caller number, not answer but activate one of the relays. Can't get my phone to actually make that call.
Here's a picture of the unit. Had an LED hooked up to it this evening and was playing with the iphone app and the timer situation.
Seems the weather tight fittings are designed for probably an 18ga. wire. I really hate wires that small and am using 16ga. wire for these pigtails. I can get the power wires in and 5 pigtails for the relays but can't get the last two in. I'll probably end up drilling a hole and using a rubber grommet to insulate that last two pigtails.
Two mounting holes for the box on the weather tight fitting end are directly under the weather tight fittings. I drilled two more holes in the plastic so I can bolt it in or remove it without messing with the weather tight fittings.
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