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'81 K5, "BlaZeus"- How to NOT build the ultimate budget K5; 3 & 4 link build

Warning this might piss you off..
Ok pay attention, do you see all these triangulated tubes? They are like this to provide rigidity and strength, right now you have many issues, when these guys are talking about cantilevered they mean it's hanging off the back with no support under it.mmeaning the first jump you take will fold the truck in half, steel tube is bad in compression it folds, steel is good in tension(pulling) that's why this pic is good for an example because the cage doesn't have a lot of upper tubes. The way the shocks are mounted in your build now won't work for long.


image.jpeg
You see how there is no structure to help fight this pulling? You need to tie in your frame where it was cut at least past where the shock mounts. And really reinforce this because the whole weight of the truck is on this point.
image.jpeg
Now you see where you mounted the shocks, notice how there isn't any tube to support them? There should be a minimum of two tubes that converge on this point and are no dead tubes, meaning they need to end at the corner of something not land in the middle of a straight run.
image.jpeg
Tie it in underneath and above and you'll be fine.
And slow down, use the damn Grinder. You are sloppy and it shows, quit buying crap and spend some time learning how this works before you kill someone trying to make this work. You have a lot of good parts, and the ideas are there. Apply yourself.
 
Warning this might piss you off..
Ok pay attention, do you see all these triangulated tubes? They are like this to provide rigidity and strength, right now you have many issues, when these guys are talking about cantilevered they mean it's hanging off the back with no support under it.mmeaning the first jump you take will fold the truck in half, steel tube is bad in compression it folds, steel is good in tension(pulling) that's why this pic is good for an example because the cage doesn't have a lot of upper tubes. The way the shocks are mounted in your build now won't work for long.


View attachment 199557
You see how there is no structure to help fight this pulling? You need to tie in your frame where it was cut at least past where the shock mounts. And really reinforce this because the whole weight of the truck is on this point.
View attachment 199558
Now you see where you mounted the shocks, notice how there isn't any tube to support them? There should be a minimum of two tubes that converge on this point and are no dead tubes, meaning they need to end at the corner of something not land in the middle of a straight run.
View attachment 199559
Tie it in underneath and above and you'll be fine.
And slow down, use the damn Grinder. You are sloppy and it shows, quit buying crap and spend some time learning how this works before you kill someone trying to make this work. You have a lot of good parts, and the ideas are there. Apply yourself.
Thanks for the specifics. Really appreciate it. In my post, I did state that i still needed to tie the link frame mount area into the cage. I was wondering if i should run tubing to the top of that shock mount. I was only going to run one tube to the top of that mount but I will definitely make sure to run at least 2 above it. Thanks @sreidmx!!!!
 
I agree with everything Steve said! What was the point of hacking off the frame?
To get a clean slate to work with. Max up-travel. Make it easier to work under. Less weight. It's my truck. I'll do whatever I want to. Explain to me why you did every little thing on your truck? Wait...no don't. Because I don't really care that much and you shouldn't need to explain everything you do and why you do it. There's no defensive tone there btw. It just seems like a rhetorical question. Like as if you could've imagined one reason why I did it but instead you ask me, and then no reason would be good enough for you so it just gives you more reason to criticize. I mean C'mon folks. This isn't Pirate4x4...But maybe only the Pirate guys on this forum are the ones looking at this post. Again, no hurt feelings. It's all water under the bridge. I know i am a novice truck builder and am biting off more than I can chew, but I tend to go big or go home. Gotta make it work and I really appreciate the help and tips.
 
The people that are piping up and saying something are the ones that care enough to tell you when you are messing up. It was a valid question about the frame hack. It would never cross my mind to do it because it is a big can of worms you open up. He legitimately wanted to know why YOU did it
 
I'm watching this thread and wondered the same. I'm a big fan of these frames needing everybbit of help they can get. Why cut it short if you are not going to add?
 
It is rare I see bad advice given on ck5.

None of this is bad advice.

You are really gonna need to brace up the back substantially.
 
I'm watching this thread and wondered the same. I'm a big fan of these frames needing everybbit of help they can get. Why cut it short if you are not going to add?
The back frame was literally serving no purpose once I took the leaf springs off. The body was supported by the cage which is not tied to the frame. The fuel cell and battery are mounted to the cage. Now that I mounted the new suspension to the cage, no longer needed a frame. And I AM PLANNING ON RUNNING TUBE FROM THE BOXED END OF THE FRAME TO THE CAGE AND REINFORCING THAT. LOL
 
Like others have said, you can get to where you need to be with some more tube. Here is the error in your original logic. Before you cut the frame off you had the frame supporting the body and the body was in turn supporting the cage (not the other way around). Without the frame you are now counting on the cage to support the body but it was never designed to do this. The cage was designed to be supported, not do the supporting. See the difference?
 
Like others have said, you can get to where you need to be with some more tube. Here is the error in your original logic. Before you cut the frame off you had the frame supporting the body and the body was in turn supporting the cage (not the other way around). Without the frame you are now counting on the cage to support the body but it was never designed to do this. The cage was designed to be supported, not do the supporting. See the difference?
I see the difference. Still not sure how the cage can't support the body....or is it the push/pull compression characteristics of the cage tube? oh wait...why am i asking an apprentice electrician about engineering stuff?...silly me. After skimming your build thread, wow, talk about over engineering....how much does your truck weigh after adding about 2 tons of steel to it? :yikes::haha::waytogo: good luck going anywhere fast...lol I'm just messing with you man...good on you for taking time to build a toy with 3 kids to care of...#respect.:bow:
 
Don't be a jackass, him over engineering his truck is his way of building, if you don't like or want the advice then don't ask for feedback..
I clearly stated I was messing around...but sorry for being a jackass.
 
It's been said, but your cage wouldn't survive a desert roll at speed. Let alone hold the tub and protect in a roll.

If that's your end game, you need to engineer a bunch of tube to become your chassis both under and in the cab, they all need to tie together, and not just be bolted with a plate on both sides. Cap your frame rail, box it forward and build a back half out from there, tie your cage down through the floor, and start triangulating and spreading force through the chassis. Again, that's not bolting plates on both side.

This is coming from someone who built and engineered their own class 1 car. If you run your truck like that you will be hurt, it needs more than a couple tubes for your shocks.
 

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