I’ve been using the 12 points the bottoms wear off but I can still get ahold of it even when 75% of the bolts head is missing .
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
the NP205 rebuild kit is out for delivery finally. Meanwhile I’ve continued knocking out other projects.
new liquid filled fuel pressure gauge since the cheap FiTech gauge stopped working.
Front A-Pillar cage tie ins are welded in and painted.
new liquid filled fuel pressure gauge since the cheap FiTech gauge stopped working.
Front A-Pillar cage tie ins are welded in and painted.
The NP205 rebuild kit showed up Saturday afternoon. The new shift forks and shift collars showed up a couple days earlier.
Everything went together pretty well, or so I thought, until I installed the detent balls and springs. The problem came to light when I shifted the rear output into high gear and I felt a gear dragging on something. After a quick investigation with a mirror through the inspection cover I noticed the rear shift fork was rubbing against the idler gear. I spoke with @Bent77 since he knows how to incorrectly install parts in a 205 and remembered I didn't torque the idler nut. After a quick torque of the nut the idler froze up and I realized something wasn't right. After a quick review of the NP205 diagram I realized the shims should be between the damn bearings, not on the outside. For whatever reason the shims were on the outside when I disassembled the case.
The next day I tore the case apart, started with the rear output, input and rear shift rail and fork to gain access to the idler gear assembly. After removing the idler gear assembly I was able to confirm the end play was .001-.002 with the shims installed in the proper location and I reinstalled the idler gear in the case.
@Bent77 was asking about the new shift rails and collars and if they were any different. I only compared the shift collars and they visibility looked the same other than the wear on the used collars. The rear shift fork was pretty worn at the pad and I later noticed the wear mark below circled in red.
So that wear spot is the same place the new shift fork was rubbing the idler gear therefore at some point this t-case had self clearanced itself.
Below is a side by side comparison of the new (left) and the old (right) shift forks. Notice the red circled area and how much thicker it is? That's the the area (opposite side of fork) that was rubbing the gear.
At this point I didn't feel confident that the 4 shims would make up enough of the difference needed for the new fork to clear the idler gear so I installed the old (front) fork in the rear shift fork position. The front fork was in pretty good shape btw.
Reassembled the rest of the case and it tested fine on the bench.
Below are a couple pics of the case shortly before I found the problem and disassembled the case.
Everything went together pretty well, or so I thought, until I installed the detent balls and springs. The problem came to light when I shifted the rear output into high gear and I felt a gear dragging on something. After a quick investigation with a mirror through the inspection cover I noticed the rear shift fork was rubbing against the idler gear. I spoke with @Bent77 since he knows how to incorrectly install parts in a 205 and remembered I didn't torque the idler nut. After a quick torque of the nut the idler froze up and I realized something wasn't right. After a quick review of the NP205 diagram I realized the shims should be between the damn bearings, not on the outside. For whatever reason the shims were on the outside when I disassembled the case.
The next day I tore the case apart, started with the rear output, input and rear shift rail and fork to gain access to the idler gear assembly. After removing the idler gear assembly I was able to confirm the end play was .001-.002 with the shims installed in the proper location and I reinstalled the idler gear in the case.
@Bent77 was asking about the new shift rails and collars and if they were any different. I only compared the shift collars and they visibility looked the same other than the wear on the used collars. The rear shift fork was pretty worn at the pad and I later noticed the wear mark below circled in red.
So that wear spot is the same place the new shift fork was rubbing the idler gear therefore at some point this t-case had self clearanced itself.
Below is a side by side comparison of the new (left) and the old (right) shift forks. Notice the red circled area and how much thicker it is? That's the the area (opposite side of fork) that was rubbing the gear.
At this point I didn't feel confident that the 4 shims would make up enough of the difference needed for the new fork to clear the idler gear so I installed the old (front) fork in the rear shift fork position. The front fork was in pretty good shape btw.
Reassembled the rest of the case and it tested fine on the bench.
Below are a couple pics of the case shortly before I found the problem and disassembled the case.
I wish there was a way to both "like' and "laugh" at a post. lol
Don’t get butthurt and angry button me!
Those were my emotions going through the rebuild too. Oh well, maybe the front will stay in gear now......
Other updates:
1) Crawl box is going back together now so I can marry the two cases & reinstall.
2) Crossmembers have been cleaned and painted.
3) The fuel fittings, heat shield and a new fuel filter bracket was delivered today so I can finish that project.
4) I started the skid plate work when I had the plasma out, still need to weld the bracing and smooth out some areas before it goes back on.
5) Transmission pan was removed, cleaned and reinstalled a new lube locker gasket.
How do you like the NWF Crawl box? I was looking into one to install between the 4L80E & BW4401 transfer case in the 98 CC
love the gearing, simplicity & functionality of the unit however I’m having a problem with it going into neutral on deceleration from high gear. On the trail in low it’s never let me down for the last 4 years.
The cases and all the related parts were installed last night, just needed transmission fluid and the 40’s back on. Right before I left the shop I noticed a little fluid weeping between the cases so I put a 12x12 piece of steel under the truck so I could see if it leaked overnight.
sure as $hit it did
It leaking between the eco box and the plate for the mounting foot so the 205 is coming back out....fun.
sure as $hit it did
It leaking between the eco box and the plate for the mounting foot so the 205 is coming back out....fun.
Last edited:
That’s frustrating...
Ive done it. That bites.
All I can do is turn on some metal and get after it.
Done that a few times, last time it took 3 tries, each time was one of the leaks, 3rd time was the charmThe cases and all the related parts were installed last night, just needed transmission fluid and the 40’s back on. Right before I left the shop I noticed a little fluid weeping between the cases so I put a 12x12 piece of steel under the truck so I could see if it leaked overnight.
sure as $hit it did
View attachment 376051
View attachment 376052
View attachment 376053
It leaking between the eco box and the plate for the mounting foot so the 205 is coming back out....fun.
I can't seal a tcase to save my life.
2.0 held fluid overnight and I figured out why, more on that later. Right now the priority is getting this back together and road ready for the trip later this week.
If it wasn’t before it should be now
