BAM!!!
David
David
CK5
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Let's talk wiring for a moment.
FiTech and the ignition needs three sources of power as follows:
1) constant 12v at the battery
2) ignition 12v to FiTech
3) ignition 12v to coil
I know I'm dropping power (ignition 12v) during cranking using anything at the fuse box because it all runs through the starter. I'm
Not sure the coil cares much but the FiTech needs to see the 12 volts or it won't tell the ignition to fire.
what if I take the leads that run from the starter to the engine harness and connect them straight to the battery?
My other backup resolution is going back to what @6872xtc said and wire up a couple relays that power the coil and FiTech that are triggered from an ignition source.
FiTech and the ignition needs three sources of power as follows:
1) constant 12v at the battery
2) ignition 12v to FiTech
3) ignition 12v to coil
I know I'm dropping power (ignition 12v) during cranking using anything at the fuse box because it all runs through the starter. I'm
Not sure the coil cares much but the FiTech needs to see the 12 volts or it won't tell the ignition to fire.
what if I take the leads that run from the starter to the engine harness and connect them straight to the battery?
My other backup resolution is going back to what @6872xtc said and wire up a couple relays that power the coil and FiTech that are triggered from an ignition source.
going to give it a shot with a relay powering the FiTech. Also need to go buy another battery, apparently this battery box is for a different size battery.
With the battery right above the starter like that, I don't see a reason not to move the cab power feeds from the starter to the battery. Then you can keep them away from the heat of the exhaust and see the wires easily.
So if you wire in a relays, where do you get a signal that won't drop out while cranking? Are you going to fix the ignition switch first?
Maybe I missed that this is your intention..
So if you wire in a relays, where do you get a signal that won't drop out while cranking? Are you going to fix the ignition switch first?
Maybe I missed that this is your intention..
My thinking was I may not lose as much or very little voltage if the fuse panel is getting voltage from the battery rather than the starter post. However the fans I have wired received signal from the fuse panel and I don't remember them shutting off during cranking so I'm not sure the relays are as sensitive as FiTech. New ignition switch will be installed.
If you guys have any other suggestions I'm all ears.
If you guys have any other suggestions I'm all ears.
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Most people are surprised when they learn how great of a voltage drop is caused at the starter.
Direct battery power is the way to go.
Direct battery power is the way to go.
Installed a new optima battery and moved the two hot wires off the starter directly onto the battery (+). Ignition switch still isn't kicking the starter and I have a handful of accessory ports at the fuse box dead. So I dropped the column and found no power at the ignition switch. I'm starting to wonder if I have a fusible link somewhere or some other poor connection hiding under some tape.
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
Like I said... I once found a broken connection in the middle of cable/wire (literally took me DAYS to find it). The ends of the cable appeared in good condition too. Might want to do a continuity test.
That classifies as "found it" !!!
Good deal!
Good deal!
Yep, have my ignition back so the starter kicks again.
I'm still down to less that 1v while cranking at the fuse box where I'm trying to find a clean switched 12v source. Sounds like I may just need to add 2 relays (coil and FiTech) powered off the battery triggered by a single switch.
I'm still down to less that 1v while cranking at the fuse box where I'm trying to find a clean switched 12v source. Sounds like I may just need to add 2 relays (coil and FiTech) powered off the battery triggered by a single switch.
Did you say this was a diesel truck?
Yes it was. Those were 24v right?
The cucv blazers were.
It had two battery trays
Damn some shady ass wiring there someone did at some point!
Still got driver side battery tray?
Just for reference:
Only the military (CUCV) trucks had the batteries in series for 24V (and were actually bastardized 12/24V, tapped at the mid-point.)
Civvy trucks with the two batteries put them in parallel and/or isolated and so are 12V. This is true for either gas or dizzles.
-- A
