1986 K5 Master Cylinder in case it makes a difference.
1986 K5 Master Cylinder in case it makes a difference.
Pretty sure. I don't know what model of valve you have.
But I have plumbed a wilwood before and that's how I did it.
I would guess it's not your booster at all.
My opinion. (I didn't have time to read your booster thread. I just saw something about you having a problem.)
Mine was that way and I swapped them using adapters to see if it would help with my rear locking up first. It did not change how anything functioned. I'm pretty sure it's your booster causing issues. Maybe air in the system still for the squishy pedal.
Mine was that way and I swapped them using adapters to see if it would help with my rear locking up first. It did not change how anything functioned. I'm pretty sure it's your booster causing issues. Maybe air in the system still for the squishy pedal.
That's a free fix. And it's wrong anyways. Swap them and readjust your proportioning valve and then see. Booster could be bad anyways but won't know till the lines are right.
How much did you play with your adjustments?
On mine I have my rear prop valve turned out 8 turns in the winter to get it to stop decent on frozen snow and ice. I turn it back to 6 turns out in the better weather and just be careful in the rain. I am running a 1983 P30 disc/disc master though with a bigger bore and also hydroboost and a disc/disc combo valve in place of the stock one.How much did you play with your adjustments?
On mine I have my rear prop valve turned out 8 turns in the winter to get it to stop decent on frozen snow and ice. I turn it back to 6 turns out in the better weather and just be careful in the rain. I am running a 1983 P30 disc/disc master though with a bigger bore and also hydroboost and a disc/disc combo valve in place of the stock one.
Usually the port on the Master Cylinder that has the larger reservoir section runs the front brakes.