CK5
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Pretty sure. I don't know what model of valve you have.
But I have plumbed a wilwood before and that's how I did it.

I understand how the wilwood PV works, I'm just trying to figure out which port on the Master Cylinder is Front/Rear. Who's got a mid 80's square, go look under the hood for me.
 
Front is front, rear is rear.

Edit; I would change those lines and test before I swapped out the booster.
 
I'll double check on dumpy the k30 when I get home.
If I'm wrong I am have been wrong for 20 years.. lol
I'm sure someone has access to their truck closer then me to look.
 
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I would guess it's not your booster at all.

My opinion. (I didn't have time to read your booster thread. I just saw something about you having a problem.)
 
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Mine was that way and I swapped them using adapters to see if it would help with my rear locking up first. It did not change how anything functioned. I'm pretty sure it's your booster causing issues. Maybe air in the system still for the squishy pedal.
 
That's a free fix. And it's wrong anyways. Swap them and readjust your proportioning valve and then see. Booster could be bad anyways but won't know till the lines are right.
 
I would guess it's not your booster at all.

My opinion. (I didn't have time to read your booster thread. I just saw something about you having a problem.)

it was pretty simple issue, the pedal will not return once it's been depressed unless the engine is off or vacuum is disconnected.

Mine was that way and I swapped them using adapters to see if it would help with my rear locking up first. It did not change how anything functioned. I'm pretty sure it's your booster causing issues. Maybe air in the system still for the squishy pedal.

possible. I had my buddy pump the pedal last night while I bled the front calipers again and there isn't any air in those lines. The pedal doesn't move to the floor like a failing MS would do.....
 
Mine was that way and I swapped them using adapters to see if it would help with my rear locking up first. It did not change how anything functioned. I'm pretty sure it's your booster causing issues. Maybe air in the system still for the squishy pedal.

How much did you play with your adjustments?
 
That's a free fix. And it's wrong anyways. Swap them and readjust your proportioning valve and then see. Booster could be bad anyways but won't know till the lines are right.

I'll swap them after work, back out the PV adjustment and see what it does.
 
How much did you play with your adjustments?

I started with it all the way out as the directions suggested and ended up 4 turns back in after driving it around a little. It's not locking up but I can tell when I back up that it's the only brake I have right now.
 
How much did you play with your adjustments?
On mine I have my rear prop valve turned out 8 turns in the winter to get it to stop decent on frozen snow and ice. I turn it back to 6 turns out in the better weather and just be careful in the rain. I am running a 1983 P30 disc/disc master though with a bigger bore and also hydroboost and a disc/disc combo valve in place of the stock one.
 
On mine I have my rear prop valve turned out 8 turns in the winter to get it to stop decent on frozen snow and ice. I turn it back to 6 turns out in the better weather and just be careful in the rain. I am running a 1983 P30 disc/disc master though with a bigger bore and also hydroboost and a disc/disc combo valve in place of the stock one.

if a P30 is considered a one ton MS then it's output are backwards in comparison to 1/2 ton (per the interwebs). So that's why yours works in that configuration and not mine.....
 
Usually the port on the Master Cylinder that has the larger reservoir section runs the front brakes.
 
Are the two reservoir sections able to pass fluid between each other? If that is the case then the deeper one is for the front for sure. Better to suck air in the rear lines then to suck air into the front.
 

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