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88 K5 Diesel - Tranny/Trans Adapter Install

I believe the bilsteins come in a number of different valvings,
But it has been a while... :dunno:

In the Bilstein book there's only one, 255/70. Still not sure exactly what that means but I'm guessing compression damping vs extension damping.

What's a good set up on one of these rigs, middle ground between road and trail?

Kind of why I'm looking to the adjustable ones, so I don't eff it up lol
 
Not having a clutch pedal can be dangerous, it's your choice.

Martin

Shouldn't be a problem once it's set up properly. Time will tell, It's only going to take one time getting jammed up on an obstacle that I'll be looking for a switch potentially...
 
Shouldn't be a problem once it's set up properly. Time will tell, It's only going to take one time getting jammed up on an obstacle that I'll be looking for a switch potentially...

I've never run a hydro clutch in a K5 (or pick up for that matter). But from my experience in the mechanical parts are in good working order and correctly inline/adjusted it seems to work fine...in a K5. I had a mechanical setup in my 77 K20. When the frame flexed and the cab shifted it would throw everything out of adjustment and I'd have no pedal. I think the Blazers' tub being longer helps some in this aspect.
 
I've never run a hydro clutch in a K5 (or pick up for that matter). But from my experience in the mechanical parts are in good working order and correctly inline/adjusted it seems to work fine...in a K5. I had a mechanical setup in my 77 K20. When the frame flexed and the cab shifted it would throw everything out of adjustment and I'd have no pedal. I think the Blazers' tub being longer helps some in this aspect.

I'm thinking the same thing. I went under today and pulled the set nut back a bit and tightened it in as far as it goes. Pedal feels a little tighter but realistically it's only in around 1/4-3/8" more than it way before. Not sure it's going to make a difference under flex.

Was thinking about my plan to put in a longer pin... The problem is that if I put one in long enough it stays in play under flex, it's possible I'll have to tighten it to the point that it's going to partially disengage the clutch to achieve the goal. I think I'll just leave it for now.

The other thought is, most of the time when I'm on a trail and under full flex, it's not a situation I'd want to be pushing the clutch anyway. I'll run it for a season or so and see what I think at the end. Lots of time to worry about that anyway.

I don't relish the thought of finding a new set of pedals, new bellhousing, sourcing the hydraulic setup, etc...
 
So... Today I got to work fixing a few mechanical gremlins ten was on to installing the boots for the tranny and tcase shifters. I wanted to seal the pan a bit more so I picked up some 1/4" rubber flooring to lay under my vinyl floor to seal it before the boot. Turned out pretty well (still looks bad but boots will cover).





Of course, just when I was feeling good about it I went to put the tranny shifter back in, pushed the set pins in and as luck would have it one of them popped right through and of course fell straight down into the @$#! tranny.

The way I see it I've got 3 options:

1. Pull one from the backup 465 I have and cross my fingers that it's fallen through into the sump.

2. Drain the oil and see if it's actually fallen through into the sump.

3. Drop the tranny and pull the thing apart to retrieve the pin.

Thoughts?
 
Pull the pto covers off, drain fluid into a pan. If the pin isn't there use a flashlight to see if it's just sticking to something, or sitting on the bottom of the tranny case.

No joy yet? Remove the rear driveshaft, tranny in neutral and use the rear output yoke to manually rotate the tranny a little.

Don't forget to block the tires!
 
Pull the pto covers off, drain fluid into a pan. If the pin isn't there use a flashlight to see if it's just sticking to something, or sitting on the bottom of the tranny case.

No joy yet? Remove the rear driveshaft, tranny in neutral and use the rear output yoke to manually rotate the tranny a little.

Don't forget to block the tires!

See, this is why I love this forum! I totally forgot about the PTO covers, and that's an excellent idea. I've been stewing all night thinking about how much I'm going to LOVE dropping that tranny again tomorrow.

THANK YOU!
 
Well it's all about perspective. As much as I didn't want to have to start opening up my tranny today, my day is going to be a lot better than this woman. Thought I'd share how my day started.

I drive by the park next to my house and stopped to talk to a woman being a good samaritan, trying to get a stray dog into her car. Here's how the conversation went.

Me: Excuse me, you don’t want that in your car.
Her: Just want to get it off the street so I can call the city to call the owner
Me: That’s not a dog, it’s a coyote
Her: No it’s not you idiot!
Me: Ok whatever, put it in your car…


:haha::haha::haha:
Should have stayed around to see how it turned out
 
I've never run a hydro clutch in a K5 (or pick up for that matter). But from my experience in the mechanical parts are in good working order and correctly inline/adjusted it seems to work fine...in a K5. I had a mechanical setup in my 77 K20. When the frame flexed and the cab shifted it would throw everything out of adjustment and I'd have no pedal. I think the Blazers' tub being longer helps some in this aspect.

I've seen a K5 with a mechanical clutch lose the pedal.

Martin
 
Well, finally have 4x4. Instead of getting a new drive shaft made, for the time being anyway, I spent half of yesterday disassembling the CV on the front ds from the 91 Dodge donor that axles came out of. Luckily a 1310 flange on the NP205 and 7260 at the diff means it matches up. Shortened it a few inches to fit. The angle was not going to work originally. The max angle had the ds at the diff at ride height right at its limit.

Didn't take any pics of the areas I clearanced (probably should have) but here's the result anyway.





At ride height it'll give me around 5" of droop now so should be plenty. Of course being me, had to bolt it up and after a quick test that it didn't explode in my alley, headed straight to Mclean Creek to play on some trails.

Happy to report that everything went very well! I will say that I didn't torque the he77 out of it, but so far so good.

Always glad for a shakedown run... Did find one weak spot, and yet another result of frame flex / frame to body flex. Torqued the frame and the steering linkage actually pulled right off the bottom of the column! I was really confused why it I kept bumping up a wall when I distinctly remember turning away from it. :thumb:

Of course, after carefully packing all my recovery gear, and tools, and everything else, I left my tool case sitting in the driveway. I was able to borrow a crescent wrench from some hunters (luckily) to loosen the clamp on the linkage, then threw on a glove and held a lighter to the slip to warm up the plastic inserts enough I could collapse it a bit. Going to make a point of burning them out and greasing that linkage so it slides, then drilling out and bolting the linkage to the column this afternoon.

Fun stuff, won't make the no tools mistake again!

On a high note, tools were sitting in the driveway right where I left them when I got back... :whistle:
 
Well it all comes back to wiring doesn't it? Have a problem and it's more or less since I did my dash so I likely hacked a wire I shouldn't have...

My rear lights are dead. No running, backup, or ts. In fact my front signals work but they're solid also, no flash. No hazards at all. I've got a 67-87 Haynes (or course non-diesel) and I'm trying to decipher the tail light wiring to the column, so if anybody knows the pinout for an 88 that would help immensely!

From the book it looks like Brown-9 is the running light, Light Green-24 is the back up light, Yellow-18 is the left signal/brake, and Dark Green-19 is the right signal/brake. Is that correct? And does that match up to the column harness?

Also at the column I believe the flasher input to column is purple, but would love to confirm. And looking for the brake power wire, which I can hotwire at the brake switch if I need to but would be nice to get everything buttoned up.

Is there a harness plug going to the back that I might have kicked loose? I think the rear wiring runs along the passenger side under the carpet, but not 100% sure. I've got to pull the drivers seat out and pull up the flooring.

Help would be greatly appreciated! Somehow I haven't gotten a ticket yet, but I'd love to avoid that if possible. :haha:
 
I can maybe find my pinout pages in my garage, Il go have a look around. But I had a short like that in my burb that I couldnt find, I ended up just getting all the wiring out of another burb and just pulled the fusebox apart and replaced just the taillight section of it. Took about 15 minutes and saved the truck from the scrapper most likely.
 
Well good news and bad news. It was FREEZING yesterday but got the truck into my buddy's heated garage. Barely, by letting all the air out of the tires.

I checked the inputs and outputs at the 10pin connector at the column and everything is correct depending on the TS selector. That solves that anyway. Checked all the wiring at the back of the truck and started moving forward but ran out of time so i'll get out later today. I do realize now that the 4 wires for the rear lights are in a weird strip of 4 going down the DS frame rail, and it comes to mind that I thought it was part of the POs ridiculous wiring "fixes" and chopped it when I was fabbing a mount for the bellcrank when I swapped in the 465.

If it's not terrible outside later (again) I'll get out and check it out, but almost positive that's the issue.

I did however fix a busted relay that was preventing heat (seriously, SO essential at the moment) and rewired my manual glows with some better wire. All in all a win.
 
Well I've more or less given up on the rear lights for the time being (getting warmer later in the week, get to it then). In the meantime.

Removed the @#%! mech lift pump that died on me AGAIN. Replaced it with this overly fancy and soon not-to-be shiny block off plate.



Installed an electric lift pump meant for a 6.5. Didn't take a pic before it went into the frame rail but luckily the fittings shop had the right GM flare connectors and put on hose barbs on either side to get into the fuel line. Mounted into the frame rail right beside the tcase and ran new fuel line up to the filter then from the filter to the IP.

Found a fun surprise, emergency storage for oil and water, just in case, when I pulled up the intake manifold. Now been cleaned out, and pretty sick of all the oil and crap in the intake from the EGR system.



Speaking of the EGR system, pretty sick of it, so just today got my shiny new J code in the mail. It'll be going in tomorrow once the feeling comes back into my hands from trying to do it this afternoon in -18C.



So that'll be gone tomorrow... While I'm in there had some hard start problems previously after the lift pump changed so pulled some glow plugs. Only 2 worked. They were supposed to be Kennedy's but turned out to be these things I can't find anywhere but on ebay...



New DuraTherms in!



I think that's it for the last week. Been a busy week now that I think of it! Pretty pumped to try out this fancy new fuel/air system! Then it's back to the !%$%!$# wiring again...
 
Wow, haven't updated this in a while... As soon as everything was together I started wheeling and stopped touching EVERYTHING on the truck! Putting the intake manifold in, being the conscientious "mechanic" that I am, blocked the intake ports with shop towel while changing everything over. Then I bolted everything up and fired the truck only to remember I forgot to take the $#%#@$ shop towels out. Time for new head gaskets and some valve work...



That being done, wheeling wheeling wheeling!



Then of course, went up to Waiparous this last weekend. Spent 6 hours twisting the suspension out in the hills and rocks, then coming down the hill back to my campsite, nosed into a relatively small hole and CRUNCH! Both front tires were rubbing the fenders hard so I knew there was something really really really wrong...



Crossmemeber with the front spring hangers fully ripped off my frame. By some chance of wild luck it happened 300 feet from our campsite. Unfortunately bringing the dually and flat deck 8km or so down the trail to recover the truck the next day took some time. At least I know what I'm doing this weekend now!
 
Well glad to say I finally got some time to put the suspension and frame back together. Sorry to say that while doing so I found the steering box ripping itself off the frame in such a damn stereotypical style. Especially a kick in the nuts since I've had the ORD brace kit sitting on a shelf for oh... 4 years now? lol

Found this one first


Then got the steering box off and found the top forward one ripped also


At least got started today, got it bent back into place and welded up. Tomorrow get the patch plates and brace on and be back on the road.









I'm no welder, that's for damn sure. And before anyone makes the comment, I've already been instructed that I shouldn't have downhanded. Yes, I learned what that means just today! And I think my overhead could use some work... :D
 
Good thing you caught it now!

But why? The last ridiculous mess I found myself in was SO much fun trying to recover the truck. I want to do it again! :whistle:

Have steps/sliders to put on, lights, and a rear bumper/carrier to build. This isn't what I wanted to be doing this weekend! Such is life I guess...
 

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