What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'89 K5 The Bulldozer

1989 K5, linked, caged, backhalfed, LS3, Hero case, on 42's
Overview Gallery Discussion
Would like to stop smoking the dual rate stop nuts on the rear. Figured it was springs not being parallel. I've lost half the thickness on one side of the nuts on both rears. So we'll see if this helps. These main springs had only about .050 of height difference. Which was way less than I thought.

An interesting thing I found on the rear: I run AGM sliders, which have quieted down the coilover noise. They also allow me to run the long side up. But I found the rears were locked up on the long side (Exterior aluminum cap and interior slide portion not rotating). This may be contributing to the issue. There was some sort of dirt that got between the aluminum exterior and interior slide and hardened like a rock. Both driver and passenger rear slider were like that. My theory is its the talcum powder type dirt that got in there and mixed with the dust produced by the slide wearing. Turned it to concrete.

Wish I would have marked the slider and made note if that may be a contributing factor.



My potato phone did not focus on the right object. It's amazing, they can use it to spy on me and tailor advertising with seconds to what I'm talking about. But when taking a picture with a gigantic spring in the middle of the pic it says, "He wants that blue magic marker in focus".
20220305_070542.jpg
 
Getting the endcaps off can be a bitch sometimes. A little heat, mixed with running the preload adjuster into the dual rate stops and using that preload wrench makes it easy. A lathe chuck can work too, but I lost my interior plug. I found this method easier on this one.

Fox does this better for sure as you don't need to take the endcap off to change the rate stop nuts.

20220305_100358.jpg
 
Tnsejed said:
I'm not sure what dual rate stop nut adjusters kartek sent but they don't have the oring grooves. I kinda like the oring. Maybe I'm being pissy, but I buy the stuff so I don't have to make it.

View attachment 405383
Click to expand...
Yeah if I was buying a name brand replacement part, I would expect the same.
But on that subject, my o-rings dried out and fell apart in less than a year.
 
Fastereddie said:
Yeah if I was buying a name brand replacement part, I would expect the same.
But on that subject, my o-rings dried out and fell apart in less than a year.
Click to expand...

Mine have lasted the entire time. I'm on my second set of shocks. The first set still had good orings. I bet the heat in NV killed 'em. Not that they really do anything other than potentially keep the stop from loosening. I always hammer the nuts to get it nice and tight. :rotfl:

This set of shocks look good to go to inside. So I'm happy with that!
 
Tnsejed said:
Mine have lasted the entire time. I'm on my second set of shocks. The first set still had good orings. I bet the heat in NV killed 'em. Not that they really do anything other than potentially keep the stop from loosening. I always hammer the nuts to get it nice and tight. :rotfl:

This set of shocks look good to go to inside. So I'm happy with that!
Click to expand...
Yeah, everything out here is dryer than a popcorn fart. I’ve been thinking about pulling my fronts out and going through them. Do you use king oil or something else?
 
Fastereddie said:
Yeah, everything out here is dryer than a popcorn fart. I’ve been thinking about pulling my fronts out and going through them. Do you use king oil or something else?
Click to expand...
I've been using king oil and haven't really seen the need to switch. My last set of shocks I just went too long and the tubes were junk. Maybe a different oil would have helped? Not sure. The wear bands were just shot and the lower part of the tubes were junked, filling the oil with metal.
 
Yup, its all back together. I drove it on monday. I got lucky this year as replacement stuff was minimal.

I am however concerned with tire prices. I think I'll need a new set mid year.
 
I was a bit worried since it took you 4 weeks to do the shocks
 
Did some good work this winter. Pretty much just tear down maintenance. Shock valving feels pretty good. It was a bigger step than I envisioned. Got the front of the truck to finally start floating good.

checked all the joints. Front heims are on their last season, hopefully.

I did have something I wanted to try and find a fix for. I'm no saint to my driveshafts. I set the truck on them quite often. Been through a couple spline section wear-outs, probably due to that and the load. Keeping the seal intact is a must. When I've lost the seal it always followed with wearing out the spline section quickly. Most likely due to getting the dirt fines in there on the way out of the trail.

So I whipped this up. Press fit and RTV on the seal OD. We'll see if it helps protect the seal and see if it works out.

20220507_083337.jpg



Also I finally stretched the ujoint straps. Those were OEM GM straps and they kicked ass for all those years.
 
For reference, one strap took .016 off the bottom and the other was .008 off the bottom, to give a good clamp on the joint cap. New, but used pinion yoke and the parts measure differently, not the yoke. Can't remember where I bought these things from, they've been on the shelf for years.
 
Ujoint Girdles!! That's what they're called. Haha. I was trying to remember. Weird though as stud girdles and other girdles do something way different then machined ujoint caps. And then there's the best kind of girdle which keeps everything together and nice and tight. :waytogo:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom