CK5
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'89 K5 The Bulldozer

1989 K5, linked, caged, backhalfed, LS3, Hero case, on 42's
If I understand correctly from the pictures, the actual shaft is a separate piece from the flange. It's an interesting idea, but what's the advantage?

You've got it. Advantage is something in my wheelhouse. Standard axle shafts have two options of manufacture: Forging or machining down from drill stock a piece that is OD of the flange or greater. Forging is the only option between those two that makes any financial sense.

Forging has its own hardships for manufacture. Material choice must be able to handle the forging operation without grain growth, too much decarb, etc... Then there is the Heat Treat operation. Heat treating a part when there is a large OD change generally gives some sort of differential heat treat properties near the juncture as well as major differences between the two extremes due to soak time and quench time. Same as tempering differences. Salt bath processing can help with this, but it is an inalienable fact and can only be diminished and not brought to zero. Think HAZ zone stuff to start figuring it out.

Note that differential Heat Treating can be a desired quality sometimes, and should not be thought of as only bad.

The double splined setup eliminates almost all of those issues. You also have free reign of material choice from drill stock that is just above OD of your largest spline. You can now get a completely uniform heat treat of the entire shaft. You can do it starting with centerless ground drill stock that can go directly into your swiss machine or turning center. Straightening the shaft after HT is going to be much more uniform than one with an area that will not be as predictable as another.

The downside is machine time, extra parts, and generally better material. These axles I just put in are 300m with 300m drive plates, and the small caps are aluminum. You've got 2 extra sets of splines to broach, 4 threaded holes, oring grooves, snap ring turning etc...
 
I think what you're saying is your engine makes too much horsepower. You need to de-tune it then you can run factory shafts. :thumb:
 
I think what you're saying is your engine makes too much horsepower. You need to de-tune it then you can run factory shafts. :thumb:

:rotfl: Nah. Really its a toy motor. Nothing big at all. My factory shafts also did awesome, but I saw they weren't super happy so lets try these bad boys.
 
I didn't know Mark Williams did 14 bolt shafts. Learned something new today.

The look badass for sure.
 
Got everything back together. Went out for a last minute, last run of the season this past weekend and ran Patriot. It was crazy how busy it was down there.

Nate wants to do Spring Creek on the 12th.
 
Pulled the rear cover just to double check and things look good to go.

On another note I added a new pressure shut off switch to the compressor. Now its a 150psi-OFF 135psi-On switch. I have not measured the new one yet but the old one was 90psi off, and 75psi on. During measurement that switch would shutoff at around 85psi-ish and the solenoids would immediately drop it down 5psi. So my max operating pressure was about 80psi-ish based on a known good regulator.

The interesting thing here is that the locking of the collars sounds much stronger. It can now be heard in the cab. We'll see how it does. I can say the compressor right before shutdown is truly at its max that it could do.
 
Is there a max recommendation on that pressure?
 
Is there a max recommendation on that pressure?

The lines are good for 300psi. ARB recommends 100 to 150psi (Which doesn't make sense as its an ARB compressor and switch that was in it, operating below their own recommended pressure.). They however sell this compressor as a 100psi unit, but based on measurement it never got there.
The compressor is sold as a 100psi compressor. So here's the testing area. We'll see what it does. If it can't do it then I'm going with a different compressor.

Edited to add. I don't believe this is any sort of smoking gun for the locker giving up the ghost. I'm just trying to build reliability and possibly get more years out of it.
 
I may need a new pressure switch for my ARB Twin. On the last trail run, the one that @Tnsejed completely skipped out on for no reason, it was acting funny and the only explanation I can think of is the pressure switch acting up. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to 135/150.
 
I may need a new pressure switch for my ARB Twin. On the last trail run, the one that @Tnsejed completely skipped out on for no reason, it was acting funny and the only explanation I can think of is the pressure switch acting up. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to 135/150.

FAKE NEWS!!! I skipped out on it because it was cold and there was snow. There's a myriad of complex technical reasons why I'm all set with wheeling in snow, but the bottom line is those reasons are all BS and I just am all set with snow wheeling.
 
Pulled the rear cover just to double check and things look good to go.

On another note I added a new pressure shut off switch to the compressor. Now its a 150psi-OFF 135psi-On switch. I have not measured the new one yet but the old one was 90psi off, and 75psi on. During measurement that switch would shutoff at around 85psi-ish and the solenoids would immediately drop it down 5psi. So my max operating pressure was about 80psi-ish based on a known good regulator.

The interesting thing here is that the locking of the collars sounds much stronger. It can now be heard in the cab. We'll see how it does. I can say the compressor right before shutdown is truly at its max that it could do.

Sounds like you're just messing with shit to mess with shit.

FAKE NEWS!!! I skipped out on it because it was cold and there was snow. There's a myriad of complex technical reasons why I'm all set with wheeling in snow, but the bottom line is those reasons are all BS and I just am all set with snow wheeling.

Weak excuses.
 
Starting my winter maintenance a little late. Good news though is things look pretty good inside the shocks. Way batter than the other set which went too many years with just some revalves and no oil change. While I'm in there might as well do what I think the truck needs. I think this will be closer to the target on the front, we will see.


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