CK5
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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

Looking good, is that a harbor freight engine stand? I had the same trouble getting mine mounted on.
 
Block didnt have any brackets for a chain/hook. Did not want to poorboy it with a bolt through the chain and risk scratching something up. will rig something up today, plus i need longer bolts

...

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Yeah, it's a POS. I would not recommend the hoist or stand to an enemy.
 
Got the skid plate, and fuel tank dropped today. Quite the beating by yourself. Got the fuel pump out, going to replace it with a walbro 255.

From what I can tell the stock 3/8" line is large enough. I have read elsewhere that you 600 hp is at the upper end of what a -6 AN line can support which is 3/8" ID. The hard lines are 3/8" OD. A mechanic I have been consulting says he has made 700-1000 hp cars with -6, and thinks I am good. I am going with that for now, bc replacing the lines is very expensive (all of this is expensive, but braided lines seem unneccessarily so) and a PIA.

Going to start doing some rust repair and painting while I'm waiting on the pump. Ryoken has a thread on rust that I'll have to check out.

Questions
Are the stock fuel tanks worth saving or should you just replace with an aftermarket while you have it down? The reason I ask is because it seems like I cannot get all of the fuel out, which means I cannot get all of the junk out either. I have done dumb **** before, is there any trick to getting the gas out? Obviously I have tried flipping it over and at several angles.
 
If you can, punch a hole in the corner of the tank to drain all the crap out. If you know a decent radiator shop in the area, take it to them and they can solder up a patch for you with no problem. Make sure you neutralize the tank with exhaust fumes first though, you don't want it blowing up on them.
 
Also, what is the black "matte" like material on the straps and part of the tank?
 
I just buy a cheap bicycle tube and cut it up for the strap rubber material.

The good walbro HV pump will supply enough fuel for over 700 naturally aspirated hp with the 3/8" line. When you use EFI with high pressure they can flow more fuel than the same line at low pressures.

I would get a new tank if I were you, make sure to get the 87 and newer tank with the pump baffle in the bottom to keep the EFI pump submerged.
 
Fuel Pump

Well it doesnt look like much, but it is supposed to meet the fuel requirements.

I am assuming I should test it when I get it in the new tank before I put the tank back in.

Is there any trick to this?

I have the battery out of the car, so it would not be as simple as plugging it in and turn the key.

Walbro 255.JPG
 
Replacing Fuel Pump

Doing the busy work, cleaning up rust, painting the tank, skid plate etc. Cut my access panel, tried to weld some metal strap underneath but did not have any gas. It was going so poorly, I just quit until I could get some.

The rust removal, which I know is a part of these vehicles, is something I could definitely do without.

Going to try to use this rubberish shelf liner as anti-squeak material.

Painting Gas Tank.JPG

Photo of Liner.JPG
 
When I got my ballastic fab stuff, I decided to paint it black with red accents. I have just gone from there. Suggestions? f-it, its too late
 
Access Panel and Tank Anti-Squeak Pads

I have definitely been more proud of the job I did with the access panel. In my defense the floor was pretty dented up and bent which did not make things easier.

Access Panel.jpg

Tank with Pads.jpg

Strap with Pads.jpg
 
that MAY be a bit much for an "accent" piece. usually tanks are a form of silver/gray or black, but not always... see how the b*tch looks....
 
Well Ryoken, if you saw my painting skills, you especially would be appalled.

I also chose red because I knew it would be 85% concealed with just the top an and a little bit of the sides peaking out behind the frame.

I also should mention that I had to reuse my old tank. The one from dorman did not have the tray to keep the pump submerged even though they said it had the appropriate baffles. So I took as much rust off it as I could and went from there, another reason I painted it

I was being an idiot early asking how to get all of the gas out. It quickly evaporated and I saw that my tank was pretty debris free.
 
I like it from the stand point that all the gas cans and such are res. So to me its a pretty appropriate color.
 
Yes gas can are red, which is exactly why I did it. I bet you feel foolish now, questioning me.
 
Fuel Pump Install

So swapping the actual fuel pump is the easiest thing I have done on the blazer yet. Pretty much a direct swap in. I tested the old one and the new one, there is substantially more flow with the walbro, however I did not do a bucket test or anything to determine the actual flow rate.

Fuel Pump.jpg

Fuel Pump Compare.jpg

Fuel Pump Installed.jpg

Fuel Pump Installed2.jpg
 
Gas Tank Installed

So the red tank is not so noticeable, like I thought/intended.

I cut the access panel approximately where I thought the center of the tank/sending unit was. The hole is 1' x 1' and about 10" from the end of the bed. If I had to do it all over again I would have put it maybe 7-8" from the end of the bed, and offset to the passenger side 2-3" to have better access to the fuel sending unit.

Gas Tank Painted (1).jpg

Gas Tank Painted (3).jpg

Gas Tank & Access Panel.jpg

Gas Tank & Access Panel2.jpg
 
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