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'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)

I'm curious about the relocation also. I thought about doing it when I installed my fush kit. With the body, engine and trans in there now, they're staying put. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it though.
 
I'm curious about the relocation also. I thought about doing it when I installed my fush kit. With the body, engine and trans in there now, they're staying put. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it though.

Why do those things make you want to keep it where it is?
 
Because it's harder to work on now, I don't need it relocated that badly. Back when I did my FUSH kit it was a bare frame up front.
 
Awesome buld

I just finished reading through your thread. Awesome build and very nice photography. I'm really interested in how you did your roof rack, I think I'm going to try and copy that if you dont mind. :thumb:
 
I just finished reading through your thread. Awesome build and very nice photography. I'm really interested in how you did your roof rack, I think I'm going to try and copy that if you dont mind. :thumb:

Thanks! This is my second Blazer build, and I've really tried hard to be slow and methodical with it. I think it's really paying off in terms of my goals for the truck: maintain its multifunctional capability and comfort while also being very capable to handle trails equivalent to the Rubicon without sustaining any real damage.

On my first build I was on CK5 all the time drooling over everybody's built rigs. The problem with CK5 is that it condenses time - you can read a multi-year long thread in a few hours, and it makes you think that they did all those modifications so quickly. Following the quick-build idea for my first truck got me into a lot of trouble, and it turned into a pile of problems. I refuse to do that on this truck. I admire those guys who've taken it slow to really build the custom rig they have planned over a long period of time.
 
Thanks! This is my second Blazer build, and I've really tried hard to be slow and methodical with it. I think it's really paying off in terms of my goals for the truck: maintain its multifunctional capability and comfort while also being very capable to handle trails equivalent to the Rubicon without sustaining any real damage.

On my first build I was on CK5 all the time drooling over everybody's built rigs. The problem with CK5 is that it condenses time - you can read a multi-year long thread in a few hours, and it makes you think that they did all those modifications so quickly. Following the quick-build idea for my first truck got me into a lot of trouble, and it turned into a pile of problems. I refuse to do that on this truck. I admire those guys who've taken it slow to really build the custom rig they have planned over a long period of time.

You have done better than some by taking it slow but also keeping it drivable. That's how I did my first.
Never down more than a couple of days.
 
So I've finally made a decision on what to do about my engine: I'm going to replace it with a stock crate engine. I was given a '91 Toyota pick up, and it's pretty beat up and I want to sell it before I move to Oregon on February 14. Despite it's condition, and my brutal honesty in the advertisement, folks are practically busting down my door to buy it. So I'm going to take that money and use it to buy a crate long block engine.

What kinds of other expenses are involved in this that I may not be considering?

My list so far includes:
Spark plugs
Wires
Cap/Rotor (or should I just get a whole new dizzy?)
Fluids
Radiator hoses (figure now's a good time to start fresh)
Gasket kit for intake manifold
Air filter
Motor mounts
Water pump

What else should I consider? :ears: Some of this stuff is included in engine installation kits.

What crate engine company do you recommend? Been looking at Summit Racing, and their website is a bit difficult to navigate to see if I'm looking at a direct replacement or not.... I think this is the right one, but the mention of EFI throws me off. It says it's for '87-'95, so I think it's right.
 
I think jegs was overall cheaper. Their site was a little easier to search on too. Not sure about the way summit has the years listed.
 
That would be the right one then

That install kit seems way overpriced.

Go down to Oreilly's or Auto Zone or Napa with that list see what it would be.

No reason to get a new water pump if yours is good unless you just want one. Cap and rotor good idea, plugs too. Aftermarket intake is no better then the factory one.
 
Just FYI, Most crate engine warranties are only valid if you also have a receipt for a new radiator. Might just double check on that.
 
You may want to make sure you get the gasket that goes under the distributor. Oil can leak out there. I've had it happen. I don't know if they include that in those kits or not, but it's easy to overlook.

I would say just keep your current dizzy since you're going with a stock crate engine. No need to upgrade if it's working okay now IMO.

I would imagine the new engine would have the oil pan attached already, but if it doesn't, or you're going run a special pan, don't forget the gasket for it and the timing cover. (I don't know if you prefer the one-piece or two-piece gaskets.)

Good luck on the swap and the move. It will be good to be back home.
 
I would ask dhcomp about it. He did literally the same thing in an effort to be quick about his swap and I'm pretty sure he would've rather gone with the 5.3. I think you would also.
 
I had dinner with him last night and we both concluded that the stock swap is the right choice for me. I appreciate all the info, guys.

Mitch - why should I replace the flex plate? And I'll look into the warranty info on the radiator. Don't know why, but I wouldn't hate replacing the radiator even though this one is fine (i think). Also: Do you have an engine crane I could borrow for this?
 
For this type of motor, I would definitely go with the GM brand crate. From whatever supplier is cheapest at the time, probably jegs or summit.

Don't forget motor mounts.

And I forgot to talk about rebuilding the tbi unit. Definitely worth the time, it's not hard. I tried to replace my injectors with performance ones, but they were faulty, so I reused my stock ones.
 
If it was me I'd go to at least a vortec long block it's the same minus the heads, your intake and everything should bolt up. They are roller cam and 255/330 hp/tq and that's a major improvement. My wife's truck has a l05 but the vortec is much more worth it. There should be folks offering boxed tunes for this engine with the tbi injection system.
 
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