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'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)

colbystephens said:
I had dinner with him last night and we both concluded that the stock swap is the right choice for me. I appreciate all the info, guys.

Mitch - why should I replace the flex plate? And I'll look into the warranty info on the radiator. Don't know why, but I wouldn't hate replacing the radiator even though this one is fine (i think). Also: Do you have an engine crane I could borrow for this?
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I can lend you my engine hoist.
Let me know when you need it
 
I don't know about now but ten or so years ago GM had a bolt in crate motor that made a bit more power than the stock engine. 250hp or so. Wasn't terribly more than the stock crate motor.
 
If you go through summit you can avoid the cost of freight right?

Assuming you can drive over and pick it up anyway.....
 
I would replace the flex plate because they can Crack around the center for one, and for two, the teeth that the starter engages on can get worn. If after a close inspection yours is in like new condition, you might as well reuse it, but if it has any wear on it, I would replace it. Reason being is if you need to replace it later, you have to pull the engine or Trans to do it.
 
y5mgisi said:
I would replace the flex plate because they can Crack around the center for one, and for two, the teeth that the starter engages on can get worn. If after a close inspection yours is in like new condition, you might as well reuse it, but if it has any wear on it, I would replace it. Reason being is if you need to replace it later, you have to pull the engine or Trans to do it.
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There's a fine line for Might-As-Well-Itis, ask me how I know :doah:

Sure, it's a great time to swap in a new dizzy when you've got it out, but if yours works now, why bother? It's easy enough to do it down the line if you have problems. But for parts that are hard to get at, this is the time to inspect/replace.

And give me a second vote for the GM crates. Which, btw, you can get from your local Chevy dealer, and with a little shopping around, likely for about the same money as from Summit (unless you're right there in Sparks and it's convenient.)

-- A
 
The Vortec long block is a good solution. If you don't have to pass emissions.

Martin
 
colbystephens said:
So I've finally made a decision on what to do about my engine: I'm going to replace it with a stock crate engine. I was given a '91 Toyota pick up, and it's pretty beat up and I want to sell it before I move to Oregon on February 14. Despite it's condition, and my brutal honesty in the advertisement, folks are practically busting down my door to buy it. So I'm going to take that money and use it to buy a crate long block engine.

What kinds of other expenses are involved in this that I may not be considering?

My list so far includes:
Spark plugs
Wires
Cap/Rotor (or should I just get a whole new dizzy?)
Fluids
Radiator hoses (figure now's a good time to start fresh)
Gasket kit for intake manifold
Air filter
Motor mounts
Water pump

What else should I consider? :ears: Some of this stuff is included in engine installation kits.

What crate engine company do you recommend? Been looking at Summit Racing, and their website is a bit difficult to navigate to see if I'm looking at a direct replacement or not.... I think this is the right one, but the mention of EFI throws me off. It says it's for '87-'95, so I think it's right.
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I don't care how good "you think" your radiator is I would replace it. Like someone already said lots of places wont warranty an engine unless it is documented that it was replaced at the same time as the engine replacement. I would also replace the serp belt BUT keep your old one as a spare emergency back-up.

My personal preference for plugs are NGK V-power, wires 8MM MSD, cap and rotor with BRASS terminals.
 
dhcomp said:
And I forgot to talk about rebuilding the tbi unit. Definitely worth the time, it's not hard. I tried to replace my injectors with performance ones, but they were faulty, so I reused my stock ones.
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Thanks for the tip on rebuilding the TBI unit.

82355 said:
https://sdparts.com/details/gm-goodwrench-replacement-engines/12513151

That is what I would look for. A LO5 car replacement engine.

Martin
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I'm really leaning toward keeping this thing fully stock in the engine department for reliability and keeping track of what's what. I want to throw an engine in over a week(end) and be done with it. Are car engines set up to make torque in the same RPM range as truck engines? But I also have no idea what I'm talking about.

sreidmx said:
If it was me I'd go to at least a vortec long block it's the same minus the heads, your intake and everything should bolt up. They are roller cam and 255/330 hp/tq and that's a major improvement.
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Having more power would be cool. But frankly, my current tired 5.7 TBI has always had enough power to do everything I've wanted it to do. More power would be fun, but I really want a simple, reliable replacement where I'm not piecing things together.

imiceman44 said:
I can lend you my engine hoist.
Let me know when you need it
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Thanks for the offer. However, I'm moving to Oregon on 2/14/15, and I already dropped my truck off up there over Christmas. That's why I was asking Mitch. :)

AJMBLAZER said:
I don't know about now but ten or so years ago GM had a bolt in crate motor that made a bit more power than the stock engine. 250hp or so. Wasn't terribly more than the stock crate motor.
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I think I saw that motor for sale on Summit, but was reluctant to look into it because it says it's not for vehicles that have to undergo smog.

skunked said:
If you go through summit you can avoid the cost of freight right?

Assuming you can drive over and pick it up anyway.....
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Yes, and I am not sure if I want to grab the engine from Summit before I move and put it on the moving truck, or have them drop it off for me.

y5mgisi said:
I would replace the flex plate because they can Crack around the center for one, and for two, the teeth that the starter engages on can get worn. If after a close inspection yours is in like new condition, you might as well reuse it, but if it has any wear on it, I would replace it. Reason being is if you need to replace it later, you have to pull the engine or Trans to do it.
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I see. I'll make sure to inspect it really well. I have a stock replacement 700r4 in there (done before I bought the truck), so I don't know if the previous owner put a new flex plate in it or not.

82355 said:
The Vortec long block is a good solution. If you don't have to pass emissions.

Martin
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In the short term I will have to deal with emissions testing. Next fall we're going to buy some property a little ways out into the country, but it might still require emissions. So I'm operating on the assumption that I need to pass emissions testing from here until perpetuity. :doah:

4X4HIGH said:
I don't care how good "you think" your radiator is I would replace it. Like someone already said lots of places wont warranty an engine unless it is documented that it was replaced at the same time as the engine replacement. I would also replace the serp belt BUT keep your old one as a spare emergency back-up.

My personal preference for plugs are NGK V-power, wires 8MM MSD, cap and rotor with BRASS terminals.
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Good info. What should I take into account when considering a new radiator? Thanks!
 
Vortec long block will pass emissions fine even tuned as long as you keep the emissions intact edelbrock has a tbi vortec intake manifold that is smog legal. And the vortec is exactly the same besides the port and combustion chamber designs. Simplicity is retained because all the tbi brackets etc will interchange. The car engines for tbi has slightly different cams but all make tq low and rev low.
 
I need to correct something the vortec to tbi manifold has provisions for egr to be plumed in. Vortec heads don't have egr at all. Depending on your smog person this may or may not be an issue. There is plenty in the way online about the egr stuff. That may be the headache.
 
TBI bracketry will not plug and play on Vortec heads. The bolt spacing is different.
 
The front brackets is what I was referring to not the stuff on the intake, the king I posted has the conversion intake manifold and explains what modifications need to be made. I'd say it pretty minor considering the perfromance increases. The other option is you could get a stock style performance head like edelbrock sells that is smog legal. That might be less of a hassle because it's less modifications.
 
Colby, I dont have one, but a buddy does. Im guessing he would let you borrow it but would likely want a deposit on it.
 
The lack of exhaust crossovers on Vortec heads is why I said they would not do well with emissions.

Martin
 
4X4HIGH said:
TBI bracketry will not plug and play on Vortec heads. The bolt spacing is different.
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Only one bolt on the throttle bracket, and you can bend the bracket to line it up. The rest all bolt right up.

Martin
 
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