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90 R1500 Suburban Build

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Forgot this picture. Doesn't look bad in the sun. Lots of dust all over it but no big deal.

Should be able to drive it this week sometime in 2wd. I am not sure if I want to go through the work of pressing the new u joints and 35 spline outers on the factory necked down Ford shafts. I'm going to the JY tomorrow to get the new 14 bolt wheel bearing retainers, the carrier preload locks that I lost, dipstick for the 80e and fluids. Also going to cobble together 2 52in leaf packs for a 52in front swap real quick. I did some estimated guesses and came up with a stock 52 pack with 2-3 leaves added should work about perfectly combined with the 7100 series shocks.

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Installing this junk I dug tonight in the next day or two Found newer style wheel bearing retainers with the C-clip wheel bearing retainers instead of the washer and lock nut. Seems like they don't back off ever. Found a dip stick I hope is long enough to be modified to work and found the carrier preload locks

And that's a one PTO cover and of course I can't find the other one.

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454Sub said:
Picked up a 1350 CV out of a Superduty today. The splined end is torched off which is fine. Paid 13.99$ for it.
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Nice score.

What total lift did you end up with? Was just eyeballing the front driveline angle
 
10in or so. They are 8in front BDS springs with a single bottom leaf in every pack removed, and the curved overload in the back 4in 56s removed and replaced with a flat one. With a shackle flip and long shackle. Plus the 3in body lift.
 
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Got tie rod finished tonight

Hopefully between tonight and tomorrow night I can get it running, driving AND 4wd. All at the same time. Also figured out that my condenser has a crack in it (first world problems). Seems that replacing it when doing 134a is required or recommended. I did the o ring swap years ago and have a dryer laying around. Anyone have the part number handy? MAW ftw.
 
When you figure out a front traction bar let me know cuz I could use one. My lift is a lot lower but same axle.
 
I'm hoping I can get away with out a traction bar for the front. I may as well link it at that point. MAW again.

Side thought, where can one get relays for the window mods? RadioShack or something similar I assume? I need 10 for the windows and headlights.
 
I got my relays and bases from waytek wire last time I ordered. There may be cheaper though I didn't shop around terribly much.
 
Didn't take any pictures but got the 35 spline stuff installed in the front 60 along with the inners and wheel bearings set up. Got the rear end finished up as well. Going to paint covers, tierod and ect tonight, hopefully get the dipstick and converter bolts in and see how it does.
 
If your dryer isn't capped, consider getting a new one. They have a moisture absorbing desiccant that is probably saturated.
 
It's capped. Been sealed since the day I bought it. I wrapped it in tape as well so hoping for the best.

50/50
 
For the record a 1"3/4 tubing will work as a tie rod with the DIY cover when turning right, left it does interfere before the knuckle hits the stop. But it's not enough for me to waste time bending the DOM.
 
A little spice for the 205. For the honeys of course.

Remembered I didn't have a filter or gasket for the 80 and the pan has a hole in it. Nice.

So what's left is create a 203 PTO cover with fill port. Create a shifter arm for the 80e to connect to the B@M shifter. Find a dipstick. Fill with fluids.

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Full manual racetruck!

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It runs! Finally. Well moves technically. Been 4 years for this.

Now the bad

In low just the front brakes won't stop it. The NSS and the reverse light switch on the B@M are backwards. So it starts in gear. Combine that with a missing shifter bracket and shifting it underneath and it's a recipe for disaster.

Need to hook up 4 shifters, fix rear brakes and use more than 2 lugnuts per front tire.

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454Sub said:
It runs! Finally. Well moves technically. Been 4 years for this.

Now the bad

In low just the front brakes won't stop it. The NSS and the reverse light switch on the B@M are backwards. So it starts in gear. Combine that with a missing shifter bracket and shifting it underneath and it's a recipe for disaster.

Need to hook up 4 shifters, fix rear brakes and use more than 2 lugnuts per front tire.

View attachment 241927
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So did you run something over with that bass ackwards lockout and no brakes?
 
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