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97 King Cab DS-Ton build - Rock Jock 60 and shaved 14

Overview Gallery Discussion
'97 King Cab S-10 Build - AKA The Rock Limo

You sure the trans isn't pushing anything out into the magnum box? I guess the fluid color difference might make it easy to tell?
 
It's an NV4500 so there isn't any pressure to push anything across the seals. After talking with Chris at ORD, this is pretty normal and he thinks that it should only have about 24oz in it instead of 32oz. I'm just paranoid because of how hot it is here in AZ and because I plan on having a lot of highway miles, if I can keep an extra few ounces of fluid in there I will.
 
r3dd0g said:
It's an NV4500 so there isn't any pressure to push anything across the seals. After talking with Chris at ORD, this is pretty normal and he thinks that it should only have about 24oz in it instead of 32oz. I'm just paranoid because of how hot it is here in AZ and because I plan on having a lot of highway miles, if I can keep an extra few ounces of fluid in there I will.
Click to expand...

:waytogo:Better safe than sorry.
 
It doesn't make much heat. I think it just felt hotter because it's aluminum and transfers heat better. When I used my laser thermometer it was actually cooler than the rest of my drivertrain.

Here's what my temporary puke tank looked like. I ended up with 6 ounces or so in it after almost 200 miles with ATF in the Magnum Box. It never went up by more than a couple ounces at a time so hopefully my recirculating tank will keep a bit more fluid in the case. The 205 puke tank was still dry, so I just pointed the hose to a wheelwell and got rid if the puke tank.
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I couldn't find a tank that would fit where I wanted it to go, so I decided to make my own. I still need a lot more practice with my TIG, but the tank is sealed and came out pretty much how I wanted it to.
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I pumped the fluid from the puke tank back into the t-case so hopefully I can keep the level at closer to a quart now.
 
When I went to install the 205/Magnum combo I realized that the rear crossmember I had put in to replace the factory carrier bearing crossmember was in the way. I cut it out leaving about a 6" stub on either side so I could reattach the crossmember after I installed the tcases. I added extensions on 3 sides of the removed piece and on one side of the pieces still attached to the frame. Holes were drilled and nuts were welded inside the crossmember so that it slid on and clamped down on all 4 sides to hold it firmly in place.
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The old 241 skidplate I made mounted to the frame and to a bar that went between the tranny crossmember and the rear crossmember. I thought I could get away with modifying that skid, but ended up making an entire new one that incorporated a mount for the t-cases.
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I painted the parts last night and put everything together this morning. The skid warped a tiny bit when I finish welded it and I had to oval out a couple of the mounting holes, but other than that everything went together smoothly.
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The skid hangs down lower than my old one, but the whole thing is only about 1/2" lower than the lowest point of the 205 and it's a big flat surface. If I get hung up on it too frequently I'll ad some ramped sections to the front and rear.

I've only got a few more little things to finish up, but it's good enough to take wheeling for now. I'm taking it out to Saguaro Lake for an easy shakedown run today and to spend some time on the beach with my wife and dogs.

I'll try to get some action shots and post them up later.
 
We took the S-10 out to the lake yesterday to give it a bit of a shakedown run. The new springs flex nice, but I think I need to put a spacer under my bump stops to keep the tires out of the fenders.
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The t-case is contacting the skid when I flex out so I'll need to cut a hole under the low point of the 205.
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We spent the afternoon on the beach at cove 4 with the dogs, grilled some burgers and headed out by way of the 4 peaks road around 7. The weather was awesome. Not too hot, breezy, overcast and the water was nice and cool.
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The S-10 worked great, the transfer cases shifted nice and everything worked well. The body is contacting the t-case occasionally, so I need to figure out where it's hitting and see if I can do some clearancing.
 
My son got them for me for my birthday last year, they're pretty awesome since I already have onboard air.
 
When I was modifying the skid for a bit more clearance, I noticed that my passenger side rear leaf was already W shaped...:angry1:

I knew the Pro-Comp springs wouldn't last forever, but I was hoping for more than one trip out to the lake (probably bent it on the flex shots). Now I need to find a different solution before Blazer Bash as I don't think these springs will survive there. The problem is most likely that I removed the overload, however I was looking at it and if I put the overload back in, it would be sitting on it at normal ride height which would make for a terrible ride... They really flattened out a lot more than I was expecting which is why I had to put the zero rate back in and run the longer shackles. The springs had a negative arch when I took the flex shots.

So my options are:

-Build a custom spring pack using factory 64" springs and some of the springs from the pro-comp set (only the main leaf is deformed). Cost - Free to $200 depending on if I go get a new set of 64" springs

-Custom Alcan springs from ORD, although I would need to make sure they can survive inverting on a regular basis. Cost ~$1200.

-4 link with coil springs, this would require switching to an S-10 Blazer tank that mounts behind the axle. Cost ~$2000

-4 link with 2.5" King air shocks. Requires the Blazer tank and will require bringing the shocks up through the fender well a bit (and possibly notching the frame to keep the tire off the shock). Cost $3000

The coil spring or Alcan spring solution would require me getting accurate corner weights on the rear axle so I can get the proper spring rate/height etc.

I'd like to hear some opinions on this. My preference would be the 4 link with Kings since that would give me the ability to adjust the pressure for the load (I use the rig for camping and drag my overland trailer with it sometimes). But that's the most expensive option and requires the most work to make it fit.
 
I think the hassle of leaf spring engineering to get everything to work the way you want, on something that's not going to work as well as the linked version.... Is a waste of time "IF" you have the money and ability to link it...
 
I agree with adam. If you think you can link it in time go for it. I wouldn't do custom springs if you planned on linking it in the future.
 
For now, I would get a new set of Springs and run an overload in the bottom. Then link it after BB.
 
The ride would be miserable with the overloads in, that's not an option for me and I don't really want to spend more money on springs that I know aren't going to work.

I think I would be happy with the ORD springs, I am just worried about longevity. I am trying to make this rig a nice reliable wheeler.

I can definitely get the fab work done by Blazer Bash and I could swing the money for any of the options, but it would be easier if I waited until after the bash for sure. Obviously I'd rather fix it for $200 than $3000, but the $200 fix is a band-aid to get me through another 6 months to a year.
 
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