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All things Drag Racing.

It's extra hard to drive too because it's not like N/A or supercharged. Once the turbo is going, backing off to half throttle basically does nothing. The turbo will spin and it will still jam all the boost past a half open throttle blade (without an expensive fancy boost controller that I do not have). Once it's spun up, it's near on/off.

But for me it's all for fun and it definitely was and is that.
 
It's extra hard to drive too because it's not like N/A or supercharged. Once the turbo is going, backing off to half throttle basically does nothing. The turbo will spin and it will still jam all the boost past a half open throttle blade (without an expensive fancy boost controller that I do not have). Once it's spun up, it's near on/off.

But for me it's all for fun and it definitely was and is that.

Need a big blow off valve...
 
13" wide Nitto drag radials (on it) are all that fit without cutting up the bed, I'll have to think whether I need more projects this winter.
 
That's a waste gate. A blow off valve is for sudden closing of the throttle, the boost has somewhere to go other than back to the turbo which is bad for it. Without a good blow off valve you get turbo flutter if you suddenly get off the throttle.
 
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Does that make her a trophy wife?

You will need to bûld a trophy room to show off all of them that the woman's in your house are winning.
She’s definitely my trophy wife and we do need a trophy room. She’s won many trophies in that car. Both are kids won trophies the first time they raced her car.
 
That's a waste gate. A blow off valve is for sudden closing of the throttle, the boost has somewhere to go other than back to the turbo which is bad for it. Without a good blow off valve you get turbo flutter if you suddenly get off the throttle.
It has a big wastegate and blow off valve.

Sure the blow off valve probably opens when you drop from full throttle to half throttle, but there's still pressure making it's way through. I guess a better way to say it is that I think turbo cars are harder to throttle.

In the same way that with an N/A motor if you hold it at half throttle, you'll pretty much get half the power. With a turbo, hold it at half throttle and you'll get a little at first and then pretty much all it has (once it spools) without changing throttle position.

On the other side, once the turbo is going and you close the throttle half way, the blow off valve will bleed it off but the spring needs to be set a decent amount above desired boost (or it would leak at full power) so there's going to be a good bit of pressure in that intake tube even with a giant leak. And going down the drag strip the on/off the gas (with way more power than traction) happens pretty quickly.

Anyway, traction would be the improvement. It's probably not easy to get a long bed to transfer a lot of weight back.
 
Yeah Brian told me all about Jason Schubert and his wrecks. He was there too lol.

This was a scary one to watch. That things all original metal.

I was looking for something else and saw this last week, that was tough to watch from a video let alone in person..


I did finally find the right time/weather to get my '72 to the track, it needs so much more tire and driver talent. It doesn't look like it but I was pedaling the thing every single run pretty much all the way down the track and couldn't launch under much power (2.3-2.5 60 foots :surepal:, 500$K5 may have seen my attempt to launch it hard which was not good), even to let it catch at 80 mph, then spin at 100. It was harder to drive than I thought and it's been together and running 3 years so we're not strangers (but I don't drive it that fast on the street and the street isn't the track).

But it's my first trip to the drag strip in ~5 years and first with that truck, super fun. Good people.

Didn't get to run a lot because it was busy and some fan issues but mid 12's at ~120 was pretty much it, way slower than I expected. But no traction. '72 C20 with a cammed and turbo'd 6.0 (16#)

Anyway, here's a newer built V8 Mustang losing to a 50 year old Chevy farm truck (it did actually come from a farm in Broomfield and the mud flaps came with the truck).

That's awesome! And your MPH shows you got a lot more power than 12s, you just need to get it to the ground. And don't feel bad, I think everyone is slower than expected the first time they get their vehicle to the track. The ET slip is the truth speaker, if you had fun that's what matters.

13" wide Nitto drag radials (on it) are all that fit without cutting up the bed, I'll have to think whether I need more projects this winter.

How old are the tires, after 2 -3 years they will lose a lot of their grip. Nittos are not the best for drag radials, M/T pretty much owns it.

Get yourself some X315 pro radials (if you can fit a 13" wide nitto you should be able to fit them, but they are 30x12, and good shocks and you can hook it. Or you can just rian some bias tires for more forgiveness on the suspsenion tuning. That has the truck arm suspension right? I wonder what the math is on that puppy. How are the bushings and stuff in it? It should act like a radius arm. If you put all points of a 4 link at the same point on the frame in the 4 link calculator it will tell you the IC and AS so you know what you have to work with.
 
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I had a fun weekend at the track, went racing both days, one for $5k and one for $10K. I didn't win any more myself but I was driving my best I have in a while, it just doesn't compare to my cousins who race for a living.

This was my cousins time run out of the trailer in the right lane. We had good air saturday so he changed the converter and got his best 60 ft ever.... sub 1 second! And notice he was .003 on the tree to boot. This is the N/A dragster they built last winter. (They built 5 I think).

But it shook the tires later in the day so he literally changed the converter back the next morning for the following day (the air wasn't near as good either Sunday, everyone was slower). That's not uncommon, they will change the converter for the air changes, that's how much work they put into winning.

20221008_131523[1].jpg

Both of my cousins got the buy one of the rounds for having the best RT that round of trip zip perfect reaction times. My best was .008. I was getting dialed in though, had a .015, .008, and what would of been a .010 but I'll explain later as I feel like a total rookie on that one. I had set my car up so I couldn't win that particular round, 5 years ago!

The first round my car slowed up on me more than expected (the air got bad fast, went from 200 ft of DA to over 800 in an hour or two, and I was only .025 on the tree so I was out. Bought back in for $70 and then I was .015 on the tree and had him as he was .042, big window for me to win! But I was trying not to brake out since you don't know they had a bad light and I gave it back by .003" at the stripe and lost, I was so mad at myself! I thought I was still taking him but gave a tiny bit too much! That's racing.
 
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So not long after I lost Nick comes back in and his water pump went out during his run. But he was still in with the cobalt too!

Luckily Brian had the buy from his .000 RT, so Brian and I changed the water pump with Ron's help grabbing all the stuff we needed since it was such a hurry while Nick went up to race the Cobalt. Ron is my Uncle, the one that started it all with the drag racing in the Folk Family over 50 years ago and the Folk Race Cars. We thrashed and changed it in 10 or 15 minutes, but it was damn hot still so it wasn't as easy. Ron went up to scope out the lanes while Brian drove his dragster up and then I drove Nicks dragster up and got the tire pressure ready because he literally had to jump out of the cobalt and jump in the dragster to make another run immediately. I was happy to drive the brand new dragster for the first time, too bad it wasn't during a pass! ha ha. But just cruising through the pits in a dragster that long is a interesting experience since we are staged way down by the 1/4 mile finish. Its so low you have to be careful where you leave the grass for the asphalt.

Anyway, it was worth it because his next run he won again and he got down to 4 cars with it! Notice he picks the front tires a little on the dragster even...


View attachment 20221008_165304[1].mp4

I thought this was a cool picture since they built the entire car from scratch, chassis, 4 link, front suspension, everything. They do order the carbon fiber body, but still, they start with nothing to build some of the cars, and dragsters now. Check out the penske shocks and shock travel sensor on the fabricated 9" housing they built. The thing is all tire...


20221009_162742[1].jpg
 
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So this happened to a fellow racer Friday night. It's what's left of a turbo 400, in a twin turbo S10 Blazer. They think that a drum came apart, and locked the transmission up solid under boost. The transmission did multiple turns under the truck, destroying everything hooked to it! It bent the floor board up about 5 inches! The only thing left hooked to the transmission, was the converter, and the driveshaft. The driveshaft loop kept the transmission from falling onto the track. The trans fluid completely covered the right rear tire, and somehow he kept it out of the wall!20221007_231111.jpg20221007_231146.jpg20221007_232312.jpg
 
I was looking for something else and saw this last week, that was tough to watch from a video let alone in person..




That's awesome! And your MPH shows you got a lot more power than 12s, you just need to get to the ground. And don't feel bad, I think everyone is slower than expected the first them they get their vehicle to the track. The ET slip is the truth speaker, if you had fun that's what matters.



How old are the tires, after 2 -3 years they will lose a lot of their grip. Nittos are not the best for drag radials, M/T pretty much owns it.

Get yourself some X315 pro radials (if you can fit a 13" wide nitto you should be able to fit them, but they are 30x12, and good shocks and you can hook it. Or you can just rian some bias tires for more forgiveness on the suspsenion tuning. That has the truck arm suspension right? I wonder what the math is on that puppy. How are the bushings and stuff in it? It should act like a radius arm. If you put all points of a 4 link at the same point on the frame in the 4 link calculator it will tell you the IC and AS so you know what you have to work with.
I clicked the YT link on the video and watched it at .25 speed. Definitely a violent ride, and phat props to the dude driving for keeping it all together and not in the grass.:bow:

Happened so fast being there that it was hard to process what all went down.
 
So drove home 1.5 hours but I had so much fun I woke up at 6 AM and couldn't sleep. Didn't plan to go back but it was my cousins last race at the home track this year. So I drove back and raced again Sunday! I get there and asked Brian, did I miss the time runs? He said there are no time runs today unless you didn't race yesterday. I thought, I'm not that good of a driver! But I'm here now so whatever, roll with it, ha ha

So first round comes up off the trailer, I'm up against a dragster, going 145 MPH in the 1/8th, over 30 MPH faster than my street car. The guy has way more experience than me and his car is so fast I wasn't even going to try and judge the finish. So I decided to just race my race, dial a .01 slow and let off at the very end. I stuck to my plan and it worked, I was .008 on the tree and I let off at the end and he broke out! I was very excited because Byron is tough to even win a round it seems.

So next round is up and I line up against a Camaro. He was dialed 6.50 to my 6.26 that day. I was 6.15 the morning before, that's how much the air changed. Anyway, I was so excited to finally chase someone down, being the only street car in Pro against all race cars I am usually slower.

So I did my routine and let go of the button and think, I nailed it! I knew I nailed it! Then the car takes off and I am red! I thought, damn, I must be .001 or .002 red, can't be much.

I get my slip, -.220. I thought, WTF? Something is broke, did I change my delay in the car? Then as I'm walking toward Ron I realize there is only one explanation, that turns out to be wrong. I said Ron, I made the biggest rookie mistake ever, I must of let go on his bulb! He looks at me and says, you can't, the top bulb is the same time. I thought, what? Turns out I thought the crosstalk feature was some optional feature for people that wanted to use it, not something that is a always on unless you say otherwise.

I have my car wired through my ECU, I use my ECU as my delay box. That's why I run in box. I don't have crosstalk. Crosstalk is when you put in the other cars dial and your dial, and regardless of whos car is faster you still let off the same top bulb. Well, if I would of had crosstalk, instead of .220 red I would of been .010 on the tree and dead on with a 1. Meaning I would of had an .011 package and he had a .012 light which means it would been impossible for him to beat me after the launch unless I messed up the finish line. But instead without crosstalk I was .220 red and lost. Bummer! I was going to start winning at least a little money too. So as a driver I did exactly what I needed to do that round, but I had my car delay setup wrong with no cross talk. All I can do is laugh.

So this winter I either need to rewire the car for no box or put a real delay box in it instead of my makeshift delay box with no cross talk.

I had a lot of fun though! It's always fun to race with my cousins. My best ET on motor that weekend was 6.15 in the 1/8. The Pro Class only goes 1/8 mile, the other classes go 1/4 mile, which I think is more fun, but there is no box class for rookies, so in with the pros I go.
 
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