What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Back to life...

Overview Gallery Discussion
GWeakland620 said:
Nice sliders!
Click to expand...
Much appreciated! I'm going to get them mocked up on the truck and then decide if I'm going to put some plate or diamond tread in the middle to keep me from slipping my foot through when I use them as a step. Anything less than a perfectly dry shoe and bar and you are just asking for some pain trying to use them to get into the truck.
 
I came up with a general design for a bumper after looking at a lot of options that are out there, but I'm not in love with what we have come up with so far. I say "we" on this build thread since I profess to have no welding ability and instead I am relying on the guys at my shop to craft this stuff for me. Trying to show them my ideas through pictures and having it come to life are two different things. They are building it as best as my instructions allow, but it just isn't getting me real excited yet. I actually really like the factory bumpers, so it's possible I'll scrap this one and just bolt on the original bumpers.

Several years ago my buddy welded up the 3 receiver hitches that hang just below the front bumper. Since this truck had a body lift he moved the bumpers up to match the body lines by modifying the frame brackets. Then he welded on the hitches to serve as mounts for the tow bar, shackle points, portable winch, etc. I'm trying to keep the hitch configuration in place since 1) It is strong already, and 2) If I don't like the bumpers we come up with I can just bolt the factory bumpers back in place. Those previous modifications are somewhat limiting us on how we can configure the shape of the bumper

This bumper is mostly going to be cosmetic as the receiver hitches are strong and will be used for shackle mounts, and the winch mount. I'm going to mount round lights on top of it, and probably put some LED fog lights sunk into the bumper somewhere to help supplement the head lights. I just feel like the design is kind of boring so far.

I'm also mocking up where the sliders are going to go. Anyone have some suggestions on how much clearance I should put between the slider and the pinch weld? Visually, about 1/2" - 3/4" looks right, but wasn't sure if that gave enough clearance for the body to shift on the frame.

IMG_5325.JPG

IMG_5326.JPG

IMG_5328.JPG

IMG_5329.JPG

IMG_5330.JPG
 
I'm hoping to salvage the front and rear R&P and the Detroit that's in the 14B, but they are both going to need new seals and bearings. Picked those up from 4WP last week, and got the two piece 14B hub seals from Off Road Design. It's a pretty slick seal since the seating surface to the spindle stays stationary while the sealing portion in the hub rotates. Since my spindle had some surface rust I'm hoping this two piece seal will help keep it sealed better.

IMG_5332.JPG
 
Yeah those seals should work good. If not you will have to speedi sleeve the spindles. I would just run some cheap gear oil for a little bit at first and then dump that and go to your normal stuff since I'm sure there will be a lot of junk in it from the rusty parts and all that.
 
Got the guts out of the axles. The front R&P actually isn't that bad, so we are just going to try and clean them up as opposed to blasting them. The 14B R&P had a bunch more rust. And of course the Detroit was pretty crusty. I'm going to try and lightly blast the 14B parts and see what we end up with.

Since one of my guys had pulled the cover on the 14B I never really bothered to look at the cover. I think I see why there might have been some problems keeping diff fluid in it...

I thought I got a pic of the gutted 14B, but I guess I didn't. The amount of crusty crap in there was impressive. The D60 wasn't nearly as bad.

IMG_5392.JPG

IMG_5393.JPG

IMG_5394.JPG

IMG_5396.JPG

IMG_5397.JPG
 
Last edited:
And while I have both these axles apart, anyone have some suggestions for traction aids for the front? I'm hoping the Detroit for the 14B still works without issue. The likelihood this truck will get thrashed on is pretty low, but since the D60 is apart as well I thought about throwing a locker of some sort in it. Are lunchbox lockers worth a darn? Something like a Spartan locker is about $330 on Amazon. A Detroit starts creep up to $550-$600.
 
honestly, ive run worse gears. toss that 14b chunk in some evaporust or something and hit it with a wire brush to get all the scale of and toss it back in. good chance its ok as is. run some oil through it and change it, then youll probably be fine for a long time.

as for a 60 locker, toss a lunchbox style in that takes place of the spider gears. low cost alternative for low use like you describe.
 
Following! Also debating on what type locker for the front.
 
Great build! I like the bumper thus far, looks like the guys in the shop are pretty crafty and will get you fixed up.
 
I'm thinking I might try that evaporust idea and an wire brush. Thanks for the suggestion. As I was thinking on it more yesterday some of that rust on the 14B gears would likely come off "good enough" with just the wire brush and some sort of solvent. On Friday I told my foreman some of things I had planned (blast the axles and gears, what surfaces to protect, etc.), so I guess tomorrow I'll find out how ambitious they got over the weekend. Hopefully they were too busy with the other work we have on the yard to get started blasting the gears!

I'm going back and forth on the front locker idea. Grizzly has a $55 mail in rebate right now (through 9/16), and autoanything.com has an additional 10% off right now as well. Brings the D60 Grizzly locker down to about $550. Then, of course, I start thinking maybe just leave the front open and spend that $ on something like new tires since the BFG A/T's are just convenient since I had them laying around, but they aren't exactly what I wanted to run on this truck. Guess I better not ponder too long since the rebate on the Grizzly ends soon.
 
Anyone know what this piece of rubber is called (running from top to bottom between the radiator and condenser)? It's a sort of weather stripping/bumper material. I seem to be missing the one that goes on the passenger side and can't figure out a name for it to order some new ones. Or is there not supposed to be one on the passenger side?

IMG_5390.JPG

IMG_5389.JPG
 
Sweet build so far! Glad to see someone semi close to me. We need to get together and do some riding/wheeling when we get our rigs ready to go!
 
I've had good luck with my Lock Right in my Dana 60F in my 1990 Blazer.

Martin
 
82355 said:
I've had good luck with my Lock Right in my Dana 60F in my 1990 Blazer.

Martin
Click to expand...
Do you drive yours on the street much? After reading the description on the Powertrax website the Lock Right sounds great until I get to the end and it says if you drive on the street a lot then the Powertrax is probably a better option. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I keep the front hubs unlocked on my D60 the front locker shouldn't even be noticeable on the street since both wheels are free spinning, correct? Therefore, the Lock Right would be fine?
 
Yes, with your front hubs unlocked, you will not notice the locker.

I drove mine California to Nebraska.

Martin
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom