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guys like @skunked made my install a breez! now if i could just get the stupid thing to run like it should I'd be thrilled...
 
If I spent a couple hours on it I would probably find something. Just a couple weeks ago the 57 started running like shit once it was warm. After a few minutes I realized the engine temp was 165 on the FiTech, fans were kicking on which are controlled any spal fan switch at 185. Swapped out the coolant temp sensor and the ECU was now inline with the fan switch and no longer stuck in the cold loop. Lots of guys talk about the bad coolant sensors but that was my first experience with it.
 
@the_blaze I think those are the wires we clipped during the install
@72gmck5 I dont think i cut anything...
LOL now i totally remember these wires! i wrapped them up in copper tape then loom and hid them behind the brake booster.
so if i swap to a locked out distributer it gets the rpm signal from the purple and green wires?
I swapped my coolant temp sensor before i even installed the system because of the comments on FB.

I dont doubt you could come out and find an issue within 10 mins.... when are you coming @skunked ? ;)
 
@72gmck5 I dont think i cut anything...
LOL now i totally remember these wires! i wrapped them up in copper tape then loom and hid them behind the brake booster.
so if i swap to a locked out distributer it gets the rpm signal from the purple and green wires?
I swapped my coolant temp sensor before i even installed the system because of the comments on FB.

I dont doubt you could come out and find an issue within 10 mins.... when are you coming @skunked ? ;)
Probably depends on the flavor of beer offered
 
@72gmck5 I dont think i cut anything...
LOL now i totally remember these wires! i wrapped them up in copper tape then loom and hid them behind the brake booster.
so if i swap to a locked out distributer it gets the rpm signal from the purple and green wires?
I swapped my coolant temp sensor before i even installed the system because of the comments on FB.

I dont doubt you could come out and find an issue within 10 mins.... when are you coming @skunked ? ;)

Correct the tach signal comes from the distributor and the blue wire is no longer used to the (-) of the coil.
 
hurry up before the snow falls and you can do the Rubicon too.

Side thought- Your O2 is clocked on the pipe correctly right? I want to make sure you're not getting condensation build up....
 
hurry up before the snow falls and you can do the Rubicon too.

Side thought- Your O2 is clocked on the pipe correctly right? I want to make sure you're not getting condensation build up....
I can take a pic later
 
FiTech recommends the O2 placement be after the collector, 4" past IIRC. They also recommend that the sensor be at least 10 degrees above horizontal, yours is close to that number looking at the pic.

If that collector leaks a little you're not going to have a clean reading. Have you ran the truck and put your hand around that collector checking for leaks?
 
FiTech recommends the O2 placement be after the collector, 4" past IIRC. They also recommend that the sensor be at least 10 degrees above horizontal, yours is close to that number looking at the pic.


If that collector leaks a little you're not going to have a clean reading. Have you ran the truck and put your hand around that collector checking for leaks?

It leaks for sure. I can never get it to seal more than a week or so. That's why we stuck it in the collector. It's not a bad leak but it's a leak
 
have you tried doubling up gaskets? Any leaks upstream? These little problems will cause issues with your EFI.
 
I don't know if you have tried the soft aluminum collector gaskets, but they are holding good for me.
That's what I have. My exhaust is sorta rigid mounted so when it needs to flex or move it always takes out the collector gaskets :(

I will get it fixed.

I think I need to mess with the prime shot and warm up fuel.
 

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