Built White truck A.C, links and coilovers (35 PSI boost!)

[Alan2smiley]

When this is delivered I will retard the timing back to stock and install the M&H timing advance, then turn some screws on the pump.

 

[Alan2smiley]

Does anyone have any idea on how I could get alittle more up travel without a lift and keep the same springs, the way it sits now the bottom of the rod end on the pitam arm hits the top of the spring at 3 1/4" of up travel. I was thinking replaceing the rod end on the pitam arm with a 3/4" heim joint but not sure if that would take up less space or not. I would be happy if I could move the bump plate down to the top of the u bolt nut.

 

[obijuank5]

You got room for a flatter pitman arm?

 

[Alan2smiley]

Little, top of nut to bottom of frame is about 7/16''.

 

[Truckman4life]

Obviously you would have to build a new drag link but could you go with a pitman arm with more drop to it and swap the drag link to the top of the pitman arm? Or go to a rod end and swap that to the top side of the pitman arm?

 

[Alan2smiley]

Yeah I was thinking about cutting the pitnam arm and fabricate plates to sandwich the rod end onto the pitnam arm. All that stacked together might not gain much more room. I should probably get links and coilovers like the other cool kids.

 

[Alan2smiley]

I thought about notching the springs

 

[Truckman4life]

Something like this would work if you got all your angles right to get it up as close to the frame as you could.

 

[Alan2smiley]

I don't think I would gain more space between the the top of the leaf spring and the bottom of the pitnam arm with a heim joint. Everything stacked together it measures about the same.

 

[Alan2smiley]

I put the timing back to the factory specs, 1.25 MM.

 

[Alan2smiley]

I had it advanced to 2.35, after I test drive it I'm going to install the timing advance kit that is should advance the timing on the top end. With factory timing specs it should start better in cold weather and have better bottom end. I bumped into it with the forklift so it looks like I've been rock crawling.

 

[Alan2smiley]

I took it for a test drive, It will build 35 lbs of boost screaming sideways in the ditch covered in snow and seams to be smooth on the top end. . Winter wheelin is a freaking blast. Spooled the new winch line with load. Some of the tools to work on the VE pump. Brake line doesn't make the bottom of a bumpstop any softer. When ajusting the pump timing I thought I sheared the TDC pin off so I took it out to check it, all good but I can't get the stupid clip back in.

 

[Alan2smiley]

You got room for a flatter pitman arm?

Do you know what the part number is for the flatter pitnam arm?

 

[obijuank5]

Not sure on the pitman arm part number but I think it's from a full size jeep application.

 

[red EOD]

about what RPM is the new turbo waking up at? And how do you like those air ride bump stops?

 

[Alan2smiley]

It boost about 1500-1700 RPM, I don't drive it on the road in the winter so it's kinda hard to tell on the driveway but it's fun. Probably won't do anything more with the pump until I can take it on the road and get a better idea how it's doing. I like the bumpstops because they have a definite stopping point that is frequently located. I need to gain little more up travel before making contact and up the PSI from 180 to 220, hopefully they won't bottom out so much.

 

[campfire]

I put the timing back to the factory specs, 1.25 MM.

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"Not Miron," eh?

 

[Alan2smiley]

That's right, good eye. I was wondering were you getting that, I put that on all the tools that I bought that they should supply. Tomorrow at 7:00 AM I start with a different GC that have all Hilti so my Dewalt will stay home.

 

[Alan2smiley]

The tire track channels the smoke

 

[Alan2smiley]

I took the 3 degree shims out and lowered the front of the leaf spring 1 1/2" so the leaf would have more clearance at the pitnam arm and more up travel. 6.4 degrees on the face of dif cover before I removed the 3 degrees and lowered the front of the leaf and 3.1 after I removed the shims and lowered the leaf. Yeah I should check the degrees on top of the yoke