maybe I'm remembering the old way or something... or just plain wrong. 
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Chalet's 72 Jimmy Thread
- Thread starter chalet2506
- Start date
maybe I'm remembering the old way or something... or just plain wrong.
Shoot, I don't know. Why do you think I'm asking you guys?
lol! I hear ya. hopefully one of the smart guys will chime in soon. :P
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2004
- Posts
- 2,647
- Reaction score
- 1,043
Well I'm not one of the smart guys but I think it's just where those pieces come together. I just cleaned mine up real good and with the new rubber it does not leak.
It is just a factory seam. Mine was full of seam sealer but not 100% so there was some crud in there. I wire wheeled it out the best I could, sprayed some ospho down in there and the re-seam sealed a couple days later. Hope that helps...
It does. Thanks a bunch
No prob dude. Lookin good BTW! How'd hunting season finish up for you?
see, its exactly what I said it was. 
That's just how the factory built them.
I have some photos at the beginning of my MAW thread that show the factory putty....that area was built from multiple pieces and there was no good way to get a perfect fit. So they just gooped a bunch of seam sealer in there and called it good.
It may be smarter to just replace it with new seam sealer. If there's any movement or twisting in the chassis you want to allow it to happen safely without cracking all the surrounding paint or creating a tear in the adjacent sheet metal.
-G
I have some photos at the beginning of my MAW thread that show the factory putty....that area was built from multiple pieces and there was no good way to get a perfect fit. So they just gooped a bunch of seam sealer in there and called it good.
It may be smarter to just replace it with new seam sealer. If there's any movement or twisting in the chassis you want to allow it to happen safely without cracking all the surrounding paint or creating a tear in the adjacent sheet metal.
-G
Killed that eight and a doe, then helped my nephew bag his 1st deer - a fat little 3 point. Had a really good time. Not sure if the pic will show, but that's me and my dad.
I like old cars, but I will remember these windshield cracks from now on every time I hear the phrase "they don't make em like they use to"....
Put my tranny / t-case in today. This combo came out of the Chalet, and I sent it to our man Greg Ducato for some R&R. Was a good idea because there were some problems he fixed I hadn't known about that prob explain some of the bangs and whines that truck had. Its been sitting out here collecting dust for 6 months or so. Shifter always rattled in the Chalet, so I picked up a couple copper "seal" washers like you use on drain plugs and put on on each side. Believe that will cure the prob.
Something if you've never done this. I put new bushings in my t-case to frame brace before I put the tranny back in because its kind of a pain to get to. Now the holes are off about half an inch, probably should have left the nuts loose so I could move the brace around, then tightened after I got it bolted to the side of the t-case.
Slowly but surely. Engine went in yesterday. Don't have tranny bolted up yet, still need to finish aligning it and torque everything down. Then on to adding accessories, starter, drivelines and then front clip back on.
New 1 ton booster, ended up getting a new half ton master and new oe style distribution block after having some issues trying to get lines built for one ton master and wildwood adjustable valve. Made more sense to go the oe route in hindsight as there are no plans for rear discs on this rig.
Still trying to decide if I want to keep my old radiator or spend the money and upgrade now while it is out.
New 1 ton booster, ended up getting a new half ton master and new oe style distribution block after having some issues trying to get lines built for one ton master and wildwood adjustable valve. Made more sense to go the oe route in hindsight as there are no plans for rear discs on this rig.
Still trying to decide if I want to keep my old radiator or spend the money and upgrade now while it is out.
The firewall looks nice. 
Progress is progress. Keep up the good work...
Progress is progress. Keep up the good work...
Hell yeah! Looks great man! Keep at it.
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2004
- Posts
- 2,647
- Reaction score
- 1,043
Thanks guys. There will be a heater, just haven't made it that far.
texas4x4rebel
1/2 ton status
The firewall looks nice!
Yes it does.Eff the firewall that motor looks sexxxayy!
What's the best way to move the tranny crossmember?
I've got the engine tightened down on Kert's engine mounts, I've got the tranny bolted to the engine, and now the holes in the adapter about a 1/2" too far back on the crossmember. Tried prying on things down there, loosening the lower crossmember and skid plate bolts, and no dice. I put in new poly transmission mounts, so there really isn't much give in the whole setup.
Best idea I have is to take the crossmember out and lengthen the holes in it that the frame bolts go through. Looks like I can get a half inch or so that way. Seems like a PITA though.
Any other ideas or solutions?
I've got the engine tightened down on Kert's engine mounts, I've got the tranny bolted to the engine, and now the holes in the adapter about a 1/2" too far back on the crossmember. Tried prying on things down there, loosening the lower crossmember and skid plate bolts, and no dice. I put in new poly transmission mounts, so there really isn't much give in the whole setup.
Best idea I have is to take the crossmember out and lengthen the holes in it that the frame bolts go through. Looks like I can get a half inch or so that way. Seems like a PITA though.
Any other ideas or solutions?
texas4x4rebel
1/2 ton status
Does the location of the holes change if you turn the crossmember or the mount 180deg?
