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D44 Dana 44 & 14BFF 14 Bolt Full Floating Rebuild (Complete!)

Woah, wait a second... Justin actually has a truck, and goes into the garage?! I thought you only existed in the lounge!

Build looks good man, but I think it has taken you longer to put a diff together than it takes me to put a whole truck together :D Your diffs do look better than my trucks though!

What are you using for paint on your diffs etc?
 
Nothing special Russ... Self etching primer by marhyde and some cheap ass spray paint on top! When it starts peeling/chipping, I'll pressure wash that spot and paint it again... :D

Ring gear bolts made it in today ($64.99 with shipping, which he happened to forget to mention:rolleyes:) , going to get started right now! I'll get some pics up tonight.:waytogo:
 
Why can't things ever go as planned? My ****ing ring gear bolts are to long!:mad:

From Billavista write up:

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Also, be aware that most master install kits for the 14-bolt will not include ring gear bolts - they have to be ordered separately. There are also two different length bolts available - the correct one depends on the gear ratio being used. Bolts for the 4.11 and down carrier are 1.8" long and bolts for the 4.56 and up carrier are 2.1" long. Note that neither length is the same as any standard SAE bolt.[/FONT]

From Randy's R&P package list:

GM 331421 14T R/G BOLT 4.56 & UP

So what the **** gives? I measured the depth on the holes through the carrier and ring gear and they're only 1.86 inches deep... obviously I needed the shorter ones. I'm running 5.13 gears, but I know it's usually my fault so someone please let me know what I did wrong.

And to top it off, I couldn't get a pipe wrench or anything else to hold my ****ing pinion still so I could crush the ****ing sleeve!:mad::mad::mad:
 
Why can't things ever go as planned? My ****ing ring gear bolts are to long!:mad:

From Billavista write up:

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Also, be aware that most master install kits for the 14-bolt will not include ring gear bolts - they have to be ordered separately. There are also two different length bolts available - the correct one depends on the gear ratio being used. Bolts for the 4.11 and down carrier are 1.8" long and bolts for the 4.56 and up carrier are 2.1" long. Note that neither length is the same as any standard SAE bolt.[/FONT]

From Randy's R&P package list:

GM 331421 14T R/G BOLT 4.56 & UP

So what the **** gives? I measured the depth on the holes through the carrier and ring gear and they're only 1.86 inches deep... obviously I needed the shorter ones. I'm running 5.13 gears, but I know it's usually my fault so someone please let me know what I did wrong.

And to top it off, I couldn't get a pipe wrench or anything else to hold my ****ing pinion still so I could crush the ****ing sleeve!:mad::mad::mad:

Do you have a vice? If you do clamp the yoke in the vice and then go to town on the nut. That is how I did my 14FF.

Can't help on the bolts the kit I used came with bolts. I got it off ebay but the bearings are japanese not quality USA items:(.

Dik

EDIT: I just realized your problem with the bolts. You ordered for 4.56 and up, those are for the thicker carrier with the normal thickness of gear. The 4.56 and up carrier flange is thicker than the 4.10 and down => the longer bolts are needed. Since you are running 5.13 thick gears you actually need the bolts for a 4.10 and down gear set. I will see if I can find the link with the pics of the different carriers.
 
Thank you Ira, I knew I needed the other ones but wasn't sure why... My axle did come with 4.11 gears... but I told the guy at Randy's everything I had and what I was doing... I'm calling them tomorrow to send them back. Wasting so much time.:(

And the pinion is secured in a vise, just couldn't get the pipe wrench to stay on it... I'll keep at it though.:wink1:
 
Thank you Ira, I knew I needed the other ones but wasn't sure why... My axle did come with 4.11 gears... but I told the guy at Randy's everything I had and what I was doing... I'm calling them tomorrow to send them back. Wasting so much time.:(

And the pinion is secured in a vise, just couldn't get the pipe wrench to stay on it... I'll keep at it though.:wink1:

Not sure where the pipe wrench is being used in the vice.

I put the pinion carrier together with all bearings, crush sleeve and pinion (obviously) put the yoke on the pinion and used the old nut to do the initial crush. I then clamped the Yoke in the vice not the pinion and used a 3/4" drive ratchet with a 4 ft cheater to start the crush. Once it started it went fast.

To picture it the vice has the yoke in it and the pinion and pinion housing are hanging from the yoke. No need for a pipe wrench.

Dik
 
Alright, I'll make adjustments. I had the pinion retainer in the vice, and the yoke was hanging out... So I was using a pipe wrench to hold the yoke still... :crazy:
 
Such bad luck. get caught on fire, old man never shows up to do gears, you get the wrong bolts. Maybe I shouldnt be talking to that MS girl! HAHAHAH....Just giving you a hard time Justin. Dont be so impatient, yours will be done before mine will. I do have a quad for back up though!
 
Hey you can't beat MS wimmens.:bow: (Well you can but they usually hit back.:haha:)

I tried to find some bolts locally with no luck, so I'll just be swapping them out with Randy's, no telling how long it'll take. Called the guy earlier but he doesn't get in until 9:30am my time.:crazy:
 
Called and ordered the other bolts, another $64.99... I filled out the form for a return on their website and I'm supposed to be contacted within 24 hours. They have a restocking fee if the return isn't their fault so I made sure to include a little statement about the ring gear bolt length being determined by the original ratio/carrier and how it wasn't explained to me so maybe they won't stick it to me.:crazy:
 
I ordered 4 of them, kind of hard to tell in that pic, but I think they're on there, just not painted silver.:wink1:
 
Got the ring gear bolts in, got the carrier assembled, replaced bearings and crush sleeve in the pinion. The bearings felt rough, and I put to much Yeti on the crush sleeve and couldn't even turn the pinion with a pry bar.:doah::haha:


Got the axle assembled and now I need help reading the gear pattern.

Sorry for the blurry pics, I'm not a mechanic nor a photographer.:doah:

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100_0610.jpg



Maybe decrease pinion shim, and increase backlash just a tad?:confused: This is my first time... :1zhelp: As usual your opinions and thoughts are always appreciated!
 
I'm not an expert, but the pinion depth looks ok on the coast side... drive side looks like possibly less backlash.

You always want to make sure the backlash is right within spec before taking the pattern. If you change the shim, then make sure backlash goes back to spec.
 
Back lash was at .005 which is what was recommended... not sure why they look so different, that shouldn't happen should it?:doah:
 
Back lash was at .005 which is what was recommended... not sure why they look so different, that shouldn't happen should it?:doah:

Yes...sorta.

Side-to-Side...from the inner diameter to the outer diameter... Changing the pinion depth will move them both, but in opposite directions. Backlash should cause the pattern to go up and down in the tooth, although I'm pretty sure both will move together.
 

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