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detailed SYE tech writeup on the 208

Wasatch K5 said:
Blue,

Thanks for the link.

I read your original post thoroughly about three times, got a good feel for what I would be doing... and then realized your write up (nicely done by the way) was again for a NP 208 transfer case.

I have a 241 transfer case and would like to modify the 241.

.
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Is money the reason you dont want to just buy a kit for the 241? Its not much cash..........With a kit for $340, its a bolt in deal....No welding, no wondering if you have all the parts, and I did mine in about 2 hours. You dont need a flange for the rear output. You will be making the driveline longer with less angle. Just stick with a 1310 yoke, unless you have a 1350 on the axle.
 
Wasatch K5 said:
What would be wrong with taking the front flange from a NP 208 (or 241) transfer case and installing it in the rear of a modified NP 241?
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Nothing. This is what I run. When you buy a Dodge case you get one free, as well. You may find, however, that modifying driveshafts and having them balanced can cost as much as building a new one. IMO a flange is more durable than a yoke that uses ears to center the U-joint.

I'll direct you now to my driveshaft thread: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224707
 
Geez Blue,

It looks like you've been down the road I'm starting on.... I really appreciate your posts and advice: keep it coming!

Ironically I talked with Curtis at Tatton last week. He seemed like a good guy. Having the benefit of experience are you happy with his driveshafts? He's about a 45 minute drive for me, so if he does a good job at a reasonable price, he's got my business.

Also, again having the benefit of experience, what would you recommend. (I need to get my (stock) front driveshaft lengthened as well.

Chaddy,

To answer your question, cost is an issue, but there's more to it:

Several years ago I went to a Friday night "cruise-in" in Scottsdale, AZ. Now granted these were street rods and muscle cars, not 4X4's, but the vehicles I liked best were ones that were modified, but literally looked like they left the factory that way.

For example there were a couple of guys there who worked at GM's Desert Proving Ground. One fellow had an S-10 pickup with a Corvette TPI 350. Another had an Impala with a 502. Their vehicles were so well done the engines and installations looked stock.

In the case of my Blazer, that's what I'm trying to achieve. Taking what I think are the best options, etc. that Chevrolet offered for my body style and incorporating them in my vehicle and creating what I think is the Blazer that Chevrolet should have built, but never did.

Here's one example: The Blazer, Suburban and C/K pickups shared a lot of parts. If you bought an '86 Blazer and got bucket seats, you got a driver's seat whose seat back angle was fixed, and the only adjustment was fore and aft. On the passenger side there was no fore and aft adjustment, all it did was tilt forward and again it had a fixed seat back angle.

If you bought a Suburban of the same year, your "bucket seats" were what I'd call "captain's chairs". Each seat had armrests on both sides, and they reclined as well. Personally, I think that's a heck of a lot better deal than what the Blazer's got. So I bought some Suburban seats, and some later model Blazer seat brackets, modified both to fit and voila, I have captain's chairs in my Blazer that look like it left the factory that way.

Utilizing Dodge parts is kind of cheating, but the finished product (no slip yoke) will still look OEM and not aftermarket.

I realize that's kind of long winded, but I wanted you to understand my reasoning.
 
I've had the driveshafts less than a year, with only one major wheeling trip on them, but no problems or complaints.

Oh, and remember, they aren't "Dodge" parts, they are New Venture gear parts.;)
 
Just thought I would add a few pics of my Chevy/Dodge 208 SYE build I did for my fathers 54 Willys. I did go ahead and have some extra material (bungs) welded in the case just to be safe and give some extra material for cutting threads into. Total I have $80 in the SYE mod. $50 for the t-case from a pick and pull and $30 for the weld job.
104_0396.jpg



104_0394.jpg


104_0393.jpg
 
i just got mine up and going and had to take it all apart again seeing as how we installed the shift fork for the front outout back wards.note to self dont do that again :D
 
That sux, if it makes you feel any better, I had to take mine half apart right as I finished putting it together because I found that spring and washer laying on the work bench under a rag
 
That's a nice setup. This could become the mainstream 208 SYE approach. It's easier to line up than the fitting for the shift rail.
 
Believe it or not, it went right in , no problem, that is after I found it, and cleaned off all the semi hardened permatex and reapplied it, then put it together again.:doah:
 
Here is a shot of the finished case, it's hooked to a 700 trans, and if the frame looks strange that's because it's a 1962 Willys wagon.:D

104_0397.jpg
 
I did this mod for jay and did the write up. if you were really concerned with the rear cone you could tig in some bosses or you could grind out around the hole and thru bolt it. i personally do not see an issue with it. besides it wasnt mine!!! lol
 
I agree, it would more then likely have been fine, but for $30 the welder charged me it was cheap insurance to have a little extra material there.:D
 
Blue85 said:
Yes, the slip yoke will always be looser than a good fixed yoke, plus shortening your transfer case takes some angle out of the C/V joint.

You can also get a fixed yoke conversion for the 208 from Tom Woods: http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/208TransferCaseGMDesign-32Spline.html.

P6_SYE208Cleaned1.jpg


Everybody says it's expensive at $570, but when you're up and running, it's cheaper than the JB conversions 241 kit. When you figure $400 for that HAD shaft you would buy, $100 for a good 241 case (if you can find it) and $340 for the JB Conversions kit you're at $840. Then you may also need the speedometer output housing and maybe pay to upgrade to a flange.
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You can do what tom woods is doing by yourself, they take your output shaft as a core as you know, they cut it down, and then they cut the cone and shorten it, all things you can do yourself, I will be doing that as soon as I get some time to breath.
I already had the plans in place then I found out about Tom woods and talked to one of their techs, I had to laugh in side because the cost is astronomical for what they are doing.
But hey, it's offer and demand, if they can do it all the power to them.
 
I agree that they should sell the machining separately. Like I posted before, you are getting a $100 flange and a $400 driveshaft with the conversion, which makes the conversion itself only about $70. If they were smart, they would sell the conversion all by itself for like $125 because I think people would go for it.

To do it by yourself you need a small machine shop. You have to machine the tailhousing to hold the output seal. Reworking the output shaft probably isn't a big deal.

This also has the advantage of using the stock Chevy speedometer output.
 
Blue85 said:
I agree that they should sell the machining separately. Like I posted before, you are getting a $100 flange and a $400 driveshaft with the conversion, which makes the conversion itself only about $70. If they were smart, they would sell the conversion all by itself for like $125 because I think people would go for it.

To do it by yourself you need a small machine shop. You have to machine the tailhousing to hold the output seal. Reworking the output shaft probably isn't a big deal.

This also has the advantage of using the stock Chevy speedometer output.
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Are you sure?
when I was talking to them they wanted a few hundreds plus the core and there was no driveshaft.
 
No, I've asked them nothing about pricing. I'm just going off what the other parts sell for. All I can figure is that they do these conversions as a way to sell more driveshafts. I don't see why they can't sell it for 1/2 what the JB kit costs.

If you have cheap access to a suitable driveshaft and yoke/flange, than you could obviously do the conversion cheaper. I'm just saying that the costs tend to add up on projects like this before you're actually driving again.

You would think one of our vendors here could mod the case parts for a good price. It could become pretty popular.
 
hey twoslo, have you put your 208 to the test yet? i'm doing the output swap right now. i took a break just now when i realized that the oil passage didn't line up. came in the house did a search, and found your thread.

has the tcase held up nicely? any leaks, or anything you would've done differently now that you've got it all up and running?
 
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