CK5
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Deuling's 1985 K5. "Restart thread on post #8415"
- Thread starter Deuling
- Start date
If you go to the parts store in the help section I bet you can find the $5 kit locally. Try that, if it doesn't fit then order the MSD one.
They come with heavy springs, MSD manual for that dizzy says 22 degrees by 4000 RPM, not too bad, but I would want it all in by 3000 RPM.
I would use all light, 427 uses one light and one medium, either will work just fine. But whatever you use, make sure you set the timing after it stops rising, meaning, slowly rev it with the light on until it stops advancing, then set it at 36 or so. Don't just set it at 3000 and assume it stopped rising, or it may rise too high in the upper RPM. I also like to know at what RPM it stopped rising, use your tachometer or buy a timing light with a built in tach so you can do it all from the engine bay.
If you don't have an advance timing light, then make another paint mark on the balancer at 36 and set it on that with vacuum advance disconnected and revved up until it stops advancing.
They come with heavy springs, MSD manual for that dizzy says 22 degrees by 4000 RPM, not too bad, but I would want it all in by 3000 RPM.
I would use all light, 427 uses one light and one medium, either will work just fine. But whatever you use, make sure you set the timing after it stops rising, meaning, slowly rev it with the light on until it stops advancing, then set it at 36 or so. Don't just set it at 3000 and assume it stopped rising, or it may rise too high in the upper RPM. I also like to know at what RPM it stopped rising, use your tachometer or buy a timing light with a built in tach so you can do it all from the engine bay.
If you don't have an advance timing light, then make another paint mark on the balancer at 36 and set it on that with vacuum advance disconnected and revved up until it stops advancing.
^Agree 100%, I just know I am usually working on a guys car that wants it to run better and doesn't know a timing light from a tq wrench. I have had them come back 30k later bitching about the high idle. I actually like to weld up the slots on low compression engines and have about 10deg of mech advance.
So John your saying idle goes up as springs wear out correct? Hence the 30k later thing.
Awesome. I like this REAL constructive criticism. Some good points, links, and explanations. Not just complaining because im dumb
Thanks dudes.
Awesome. I like this REAL constructive criticism. Some good points, links, and explanations. Not just complaining because im dumb
Thanks dudes.
I'd check the total mechanical before you put it back together, there should be a limit bushing that reduces the total advance. In my engine I run lots of initial 22 drug and little advance 16 degrees. It runs really well this way. And I get my total all in 3000.
The weights tend to get "sticky" so it eventually is more than the springs can pull home. You are still ignorant but we are trying to change that. You were never dumb that is why we are complaining. Put the same level of attention to ever thing you do. You don't need to know it all just think about it more than skin deep. Just like how your suspension works better yet isn't too far from stock slightly tweeking every little thing makes big results.
I like your thinking, thats exactly what I did with the vacuum advance can on the truck. I used a can with a low vacuum needed but had way too much advance, then I put a tack weld on the limiter and filed it back. That way it was all in at idle with my cam's vacuum, and still didn't produce too much with more vacuum.
I hate those adjustable cans because they fluctuate when idle vacuum fluctuates which in turn fluctuates worse. And if you plug it into ported vacuum then idle quality suffers, so I like full vacuum for the can. I hate running with mech and no vacuum can because then you don't have the throttle response with the timing down so low at idle. So if I ditch one I ditch 'em both. If the engine is making less than about 10 inHg at idle then I say ditch the springs and the vac can and lock it out and use a start retard if it cranks slow. I just take a dizzy, remove the weights, and phase the rotor, then tack weld the bar so it can't rotate.
Adam, you probably have more vacuum so I would keep the can and the mechanical.
I had like 15hg last time I put the gauge on it.
Do I need to do this tack welding stuff?
Do I need to do this tack welding stuff?
That is exactly the timing I like too, usually that center weight in the kit has two sides, if you flip it over it will limit the travel of the mechanical weights and travel less.
Lows 20s initial, 36 - 38 all in by 3k with no vacuum, and around 52 with vacuum maximum allowed.
I would keep the weights and springs for your vacuum, and use the side of the center plate that allows less travel for the mechanical weights.
When you get it all done and set without the vacuum can plugged in, plug it in and see how high it gets, if it gets over 52~54 when the mechanical is all in above 3k then I would say then you need to limit the vac can, you can probably adjust that with your dizzy. But it also needs to be all in at idle.
Do you have a hand vacuum pump?
Go here, it shows you how to limit the vac advance with your dizzy, no tack welding necessary....
http://www.msdignition.com/instructions/Products/84281.pdf?terms=84281
It's so easy you can set it before you put it back in. I would just use the 14 degree setting so you can try 38 degrees and still not be above 52 with vacuum.
http://www.msdignition.com/instructions/Products/84281.pdf?terms=84281
It's so easy you can set it before you put it back in. I would just use the 14 degree setting so you can try 38 degrees and still not be above 52 with vacuum.
Heath is right having vacuum is nice cause you still keep the mpg and crisp response off idle, just check it with a vaccum pump so you know how much advance the canister adds. If you want I'll find you a chart that has opening hg and timing values so you can get a non adj. canister. That way with 15hg the can is open and cruising it will stay open and not surge. Timing is so important for performance it will make or break the way an engine feels.
Also fueling adjustments should be made one change at a time, you can make larger changes to verify the outcome until you get close.. Then trim it down.
Also fueling adjustments should be made one change at a time, you can make larger changes to verify the outcome until you get close.. Then trim it down.
If it's a wideband it will already be heated.
Can't the exhaust just warm it up?
Aww man how's it you got one without.. The problem is the sensor is not accurate at lower temps(headers) if it's not directly in the stream coming from the exhaust basically in stock position for a tbi engine it won't read correctly. A heated sensor is a must imho..
Why do these things get sold still if they are dumb?
The bung is welded probably 3 inches above the collector flange on the driver side header.
The bung is welded probably 3 inches above the collector flange on the driver side header.
