CK5
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Deuling's 1985 K5. "Restart thread on post #8415"
- Thread starter Deuling
- Start date
I havnt put any of it back on yet. The shop isn't by my house so if I drive out there, I need to be there for a bit to make it worth it.
Oh others may disagree but I would go an 1/8 of a turn to keep it out of valve float longer. People don't like this but in circle track you use both sides of the HP curve before and after peak. In off reading sometimes you need the wheel speed. So if you spin it to 5000 if it peaks at 4500 as long you stay out of float.
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The preload of the lifter has nothing to do with keeping the rocker arm tight.
Martin
Martin
I usually go 1/4 turn, never half a turn. 1/8 turn is probably fine too. Some people even go as far as to make it .002 lash or something stupid that just creates slop and noise and extra wear in the valvetrain that defeats the purpose of using a hydraulic lifter. On the other end of the spectrum people have gone 3/4 turn, but I don't see the point in that.
Like Martin says, its a metal locknut, as long as the locknut isn't wore out it doesnt matter where you put it, it should stay there. You are just changing how much you proeload the hydraulic lifter.
Like Martin says, its a metal locknut, as long as the locknut isn't wore out it doesnt matter where you put it, it should stay there. You are just changing how much you proeload the hydraulic lifter.
I have run a .002 lash on a lifter. It was in a crate engine with a low pressure valve spring used to control power. .002 lash allowed the lifter to pump up against the clip and act like a solid. It gained 500 rpms and helped add 5 HP, which on a crate race engine is a lot. A quarter is fine on this engine.
I'm not saying it doesn't work, I just feel if you are going to run lash with slop and noise and accelerated wear then just run a mechanical flat tappet and gain more hp than 5. I feel the added maintenance/wear is not worth the extra 1 or 5 hp gained with using >0 lash on a hyd lifter.
Man there is more tech in the last few pages than this thread normally gets in weeks.
You should blow parts up more often Adam!
You should blow parts up more often Adam!
For sure! I am learning all sorts of stuff... that I could have used when I still had a sbc.
Interesting I never thought about 1/8th turn preload... Good tip.
Ok I picked up Mr Gasket #929G advance curve kit. The instructions are horrid lol.
Now i need to look back and piece together instructions from you guys.
Now i need to look back and piece together instructions from you guys.
Google you "Recurving distributor."
Also, IIRC, this was a very handy read http://www.camaros.org/pdf/timing101.pdf
In this instance, be glad you're skinny, as a fat guy hopping up and down to get at the dizzy is a miserable man. Ask me how I know.
Also keep your magnetic fish tool handy. You WILL drop the spring, and then swear a lot. Ask me how I know.
-- A
Dizzy is laying on the concrete as we speak. Hoping to do any mods to it before i drop it back in....
TRUE THAT...I've actually started following this thread again since the fluff is gone away!
Adam, I wouldn't use STP on the cylinders, I dunk the rings in 5w30 oil, let em drain for a few minutes and then just a thin coat of auto trans fluid on the cylinder walls before dropping the slugs in. STP is too thick for that application IMO. The cam lobes need something really sticky, and cam lube is made just for that purpose, it will stick to the lobes and not drain off like oil will.
