CK5
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diesel issues and questions?-update: fuel tank leak

Cool thanks for the support and info. Im still going to go buy a new fuel filter and lift pump this morning just in case and ill just hold on to them for the future if i dont use them now. Then I will just have them. That is a good idea to replace the fuel lines. Is there any difference in what I should use? Or can I use the same fuel lines as a gasoline engine? Thanks again
 
I buy fuel lines from a local speed shop, it is simply "fuel line" rated for gas or diesel. I have seen some in the past that said "gas fuel line" so I would specify when asking for it that you need some for diesel fuel just to make sure. Honestly I think it is probably all the same, but better to specify what you want.
 
great info guys!:bow:

One thing to add, I had my 6.5 die on me shortly after buying it. Ended up the PO had installed a hidden toggle switch that terminated power to the fuel cutoff solinoid. the wiring had come loose to it and it wouldnt start without it.

just something to look for, you never know what sort of crazy wiring schemes the PO has going in these old trucks.
 
Well I had 12 volts at the pink wire to the IP, so I am assuming that the solenoid is still good. I dont know if I am going to have time tonight to work on it or not. If not tomorrow should be less busy, but I know I will not have any time this weekend. Snowdown, which is our winter festival here, starts tonight so it is a long weekend of drinking and fun stuff. :D

I think I may just replace the fuel lines, lift pump and fuel filter just so I know it is all new and good. We will see though. First I will try again to purge all of the air out.
 
I think i am confused about which solenoid you are talking about? Do you mean the fuel cut off solenoid? I guess that would be the one you're talking about :doah: I am not sure about it clicking when I unplug it. Where is the fuel cut off solenoid located?
 
Check the solenoid! All you gotta do is take the pink wire off and turn the ignition on. While the ignition is on, touch the pink wire to the solenoid's spade momentarily. You should be able to hear the solenoid click internally if it is working correctly.
 
Check the solenoid! All you gotta do is take the pink wire off and turn the ignition on. While the ignition is on, touch the pink wire to the solenoid's spade momentarily. You should be able to hear the solenoid click internally if it is working correctly.

Ill go check it right now. Be right back. (after a quick search i saw a post you made in another thread about the location)
 
Ok, so the solenoid is good, and you are confident that you have fuel coming to the IP? Could be a sheared pump drive shaft... Usually an ip wears out over time, doesn't just shut off like you turned the key off...
 
Well I had the top most fuel line off of the filter yesterday (biggest fuel line diameter as well coming from lift pump) and I was getting fuel coming out of that. But it wasnt a lot of fuel more like a dribble. After 15 seconds of cranking it was probably only around 1/4 cup of fuel.
 
Your lift pump is bad then. You should be getting a good stream out of that line...

Usually that isn't enough to make them stall as the IP is capable of drawing fuel from the tank by itself (it's just not good for it to do so).

I'd start with the lift pump and the new filter, then purge the air and see what happens.

Rene
 
Ah, that makes more sense then! That IP can suck on an air locked line all day and never get enough fuel to start. The lift pump should be able to fill your coke bottle in just a few seconds of cranking.

Get that IP some fuel, bleed it out as mentioned above and hopefully she fires up for you :)
 
Cool hopefully get to it here soon. Pretty much done working for the day, just need someone to help me push the truck into the shop.
 
Before you jump in and change the lift pump verify that it is the pump that is bad and not something in the line or sender blocking fuel flow. To do this use a bottle of diesel with a line to the lift pump (instead of the frame rail fuel line) then on the output side that should go to the filter, run a linie to an empty bottle. Crank it some and see what happens. If your fuel doesn't change bottles then it is deffinately a bad lift pump. If it does then you have a blockage in the line to the tank. Just hate to see you through parts at it without verifying the problem. Oh and make sure you use new or at least know good rubber lines.
 
Before you jump in and change the lift pump verify that it is the pump that is bad and not something in the line or sender blocking fuel flow. To do this use a bottle of diesel with a line to the lift pump (instead of the frame rail fuel line) then on the output side that should go to the filter, run a linie to an empty bottle. Crank it some and see what happens. If your fuel doesn't change bottles then it is deffinately a bad lift pump. If it does then you have a blockage in the line to the tank. Just hate to see you through parts at it without verifying the problem. Oh and make sure you use new or at least know good rubber lines.

Ill definitely do that first. But I already bought a new lift pump today so I might as well put it on, or if not ill just hold on to it for next time.
 
Don't get me wrong, I am not saying it cant be the pump or not to put the new one on. Just saying to test the old one first. I have seen several go bad, just the diesel mech in me says to test and verify every part when trouble shooting. Also to test the injector pump, find a VERY clean funnel and take the hose from the filter and stick it on the end of the funnel. Hold the funnel up and fill it with fuel then have someone else (or use a remote starter button) crank the engine. You can also hang/wire the funnel to the hood so it is hands free, that way you can bleed the lines at the same time.
 
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