Most blocks will need a little clearancing with a 400 crank, or almost any aftermarket crank. It is pretty simple and common. Just set in the crank with the rods and pistons on. rotate around and mark, then grind anywhere that the rods or crank hit. It needs about 50-60 thousanths clearance and that is all. Then take apart and clean really well before final assembly.
Cutting a wounded crank is cheap and once again, very common. Ask your machinist and it may clean up with just a polish. (Ususally about 25-30$.) Or if you want to go with a new crank, do yourself a favor and price everything out from start to finish. It can get more expesive real quick. I had a $1800 crank I had laying in the shop. It was a little odd, but I decided to put it in my new build for my 75 blazer and the cost is getting out of control to make this thing work. Yes, I will have the coolest engine on the planet, but it will be worth four times what the truck will ever be valued at. (So if someone wants to give you a Callies Pro Magnum XL crank in 3.800 stroke with 400 mains and 2" rods, just know it will cost a bunch more than standard stuff.

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And for brands of cranks and rods for a 383. I will give you a little hint. Almost every one of the budget deals is made in the same few places. They then bring them to america and some finish them differently. But for the most part, it is just a different box.
Doug Herbert has a deal right now that get you a new scat cast steel crank, 5140 I beam rods, Speed pro cast pistons, clevite bearings and perfect circle rings for $579.99. That is a 3.75 stroke crank and can come in 30over, 60over, 90over, etc. I think DynoFlo has one too for about the same, but I don't see it right off. You could call.
The added stroke will help you make more power down low.
*edit* That eBay deal above is a pretty decent deal. Mark makes a good piston. And getting the balance and a good flexplate and balancer is a nice addition.