CK5
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Engine builders, please check in - update block is NFG

Most GM engines were assembled from the factory with what's called "selective fit" bearings. These are bearings that range anywhere from .0001" - .0009" (1/10 of a thousandth of an inch to 9/10's of a thousandth of an inch). These bearings cannot be purchased anywhere. Most engines i've taken apart usually were fitted with .0005" - .0008" selective fit bearings. I HIGHLY suggest that you have the crank machined to the next undersize and buy the corresponding bearings so that you don't have any loose bearing clearances.
 
you need to measure that bore for taper max .004 and out of round .002....if these are more than the said figures, you should machine hone at minimum, if not bore and hone.
 
DAMNIT!!!!!!!!!! i just posted a really long post i dont have the energy to again... .so heres a quick redo............

check out these links for an idea of what a vortec headed 383 can do.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/57841_ht_383_crate_engine_test/index.html

and then with some mods....

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/76178_chevrolet_ht_383_engine/index.html


I say that R code 350 is a golden starting point. run with it. For a cheap build for serious power (400 should happen blindfolded) id do this.....

Heads - keep the vortecs. for your goal aftermarket heads are a complete waste of money. Obviously you want a cam with some lift, so instead of machining the heads, go with comp cams beehive valvesprings. which will negate the need for machine work. and will allow up to .525in of lift. while providing less valvetrain stress, better high rpm valve control, and its just plain cool :) this is the setup im using for the DZ302 clone im planning on building at some point (although ill probably use milodon street flo valves). Of course you also have the option to spend some more money on porting polishing and hogging the heads out for 2.02/1.60 valves. Vortecs actually out perform most aftermarket heads at low lift numbers, critical for torque production at low engine speeds where, lets face it, youre going to be most of the time.

Block - use what you got

Crank - seeing as yours seems to be FUBAR, go 383. done.

rods - for the power levels youre looking for, the stock powdered metal cracked cap rods will do just fine. and are cheaper than dirt.

Pistons - dished dished dished.... did i mention dished? avoid domes whenever possible. I would even mill the heads for smaller chambers in order to run larger dishes. the more surface area on the piston, and less surface area on the chamber, means more energy used to push the piston down, and less trying to lift the head off the block.

Cam - this is where you want to spend the largest part of your budget, i have been very impressed with comp cams xtreme energy cams. great hp, and very flat, high torque curves.

anyway, thats my humble opinion.
 
Heads - keep the vortecs.

He has vortecs?

Thought he had stockers. First post says 91 350 which means non vortec.

either way good heads are the key to making power. Roller rockers don't hurt either. Theres a million ways you could go on this project. I suggest you do some serious research before making any purchases. You can download desktop dyno for free from limewire or kazaa. I spend hours upon hours running different cam/head combo's for my "future" plans. Best tool you can have when it comes to deciding what to buy. You can plug head flow and cam specs(things like lobe center angle) and get really close to real world numbers.

Camquest from comp cams is a decent program but it won't give you any numbers other then peak. DD lets you see the curve from 2000 rpm.
 
Most blocks will need a little clearancing with a 400 crank, or almost any aftermarket crank. It is pretty simple and common. Just set in the crank with the rods and pistons on. rotate around and mark, then grind anywhere that the rods or crank hit. It needs about 50-60 thousanths clearance and that is all. Then take apart and clean really well before final assembly.
Cutting a wounded crank is cheap and once again, very common. Ask your machinist and it may clean up with just a polish. (Ususally about 25-30$.) Or if you want to go with a new crank, do yourself a favor and price everything out from start to finish. It can get more expesive real quick. I had a $1800 crank I had laying in the shop. It was a little odd, but I decided to put it in my new build for my 75 blazer and the cost is getting out of control to make this thing work. Yes, I will have the coolest engine on the planet, but it will be worth four times what the truck will ever be valued at. (So if someone wants to give you a Callies Pro Magnum XL crank in 3.800 stroke with 400 mains and 2" rods, just know it will cost a bunch more than standard stuff. :wink1:)
And for brands of cranks and rods for a 383. I will give you a little hint. Almost every one of the budget deals is made in the same few places. They then bring them to america and some finish them differently. But for the most part, it is just a different box.
Doug Herbert has a deal right now that get you a new scat cast steel crank, 5140 I beam rods, Speed pro cast pistons, clevite bearings and perfect circle rings for $579.99. That is a 3.75 stroke crank and can come in 30over, 60over, 90over, etc. I think DynoFlo has one too for about the same, but I don't see it right off. You could call.
The added stroke will help you make more power down low.

*edit* That eBay deal above is a pretty decent deal. Mark makes a good piston. And getting the balance and a good flexplate and balancer is a nice addition.

When u say grind to cleance it, you mean I can do it myself and take a dremel tool and remove a little metal?

Who is the Doug Herbert you keep talking about?
 
lol no you cant do it yourself with a dremel

they put them on a lathe and turn the crank while a sort of (belt sander) cleans up the journal

heres a video (last one I seen had a belt type, just to polish, this one has a stone wheel to actually grind)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPwCsPik7KU

He was talking about clearancing the block, not turning the cranck. Yes, you can clearance a block at home.

Martin
 
When u say grind to cleance it, you mean I can do it myself and take a dremel tool and remove a little metal?

Who is the Doug Herbert you keep talking about?

If you are speaking of clearancing the block, you bet your sweet bippy! Depending on the rods and crank, the couterweight and/or the rod bolt area will slightly hit the pan rail of the block. (Or sometimes the very bottom of the cylider wall.) Where it does, make a mark and take your dremmel, (Or larger tool with the same idea) and clearance that to make it fit. It is exactly the way the machine shop is going to clearance it. So take 1 hour and save the money.
If you are speaking of grinding on a crank like original is speaking of. NO! You need particular machines to do that perfectly. No room for error there. (Just don't tell people that we hit them with a shoestring and sand paper all the time at the track. But not for the faint of heart.)
Doug Herbert is the son of Chet Herbert (The guy who invented the roller cam/lifter.) He is a top fuel driver in the NHRA and IHRA. Owns his own speed shops. Log on and get a free catalog sent to you. Or call 1-800-444-7373 and they can get the catalog out. Prices on stuff like this will beat Summit and Jegs like a rented mule. Lots of great stuff and great information. And actual people on the phones that really know how to build - race - and have worked in the perfomance industry, not some ya-hoo in high school that reads a answer to your question out of a printed catalog.
http://www.dougherbert.com/
 
Doug is also a guy that knows what can happen when your MSD has serious ingition malfunction.
herbert1.jpg
 
ok so i still have lots of research to do here and price comparissons. Doug Hubert looks like he has everything I need. He has a build your own 383 short block kit that comes prebalanced and machined.
 
so in doing some searching, what length rods are best, for a 383 5.7" or 6.0"?
 
youve got 5.7's now, so thats the cheap way to go. 6.0 would let you run a lower compression height piston which weighs less and puts less stress on the rotating assembly. i like longer rods personally, but it depends entirely on what you want to spend.
 
I downloaded the Compcams Camquest software and its pretty cool. It says with the AFR 180 Eliminator Heads and an extreme energy 262 cam I get 413hp@5500rpm and 437lbft@4000rpm. Thats on the 350 which is more than enough power, but it only lists the 383 with the same add ons at 417hp@5500rpm but with 464lbf@4000rpm.

Can someone with a desktop dyno confirm these numbers?
here's the cyl head info: http://www.airflowresearch.com/sbc-180cc-c-72_90.html



I'm assuming a 9.5:1 ratio and roller motor right?

Also I need the cam part number... I found a bunch of 262's......
 
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I'm assuming a 9.5:1 ratio and roller motor right?

Also I need the cam part number... I found a bunch of 262's......

9.5 is right, but no its not a roller motor.

cam part number is: 12-238-2

does DD also have the Lunati cams? if so can you run it with this one: 60102LK
 
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