Grandpa’s Blazer gettin fixed up…

[sandersen1976]

Thanks for detailing my suggestion.
I tend to assume people can see what I think.
I have done it every way that on can think of along the years and short of having a lift, this was the best way.
The first one we did was my 74, we had 4 strong guys and we carried it off and the shop was big enough that it was easy.
The following 3 times I was by myself and had to find ways.

I’m using a pair of camper jacks that I have laying around and a 4x4 post spanning thru the cab with the doors off for a pickup cab. Then 4 chains down and under the cab to the cab mounts. (Maybe u can do something similar with 2 sets ??) just a random thought!

 

[Jon52]

Okay finally have separation. Pass side looks like a cross member was cut and they were using hanger to hold exhaust. Look’s jagged cut with torch. Kind of odd. Is this normal? The opposite side did not have an opposing side of cross member attached to the frame but holes were there to have hosted it. The pass side is held to frame with the same factory metal rivets holding frame to other cross members on frame.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I would trust it. The key is you have to push/pull on the tub to see that it doesn't move, then say "that's not going anywhere".

You forgot the part about slapping it before the statement.

 

[82355]

The 509 is a good engine if it's a virgin engine.
As for the French...
2 bolt main is the run of the mill setup for those years, 2 bolts per main cap on the crankshaft.
And siamese are not the pistons but the exhaust ports. Meaning they are touching which is not great because they get hotter in that area.
As for the steam channels, the 400 is physically the same size as a 350 but with a bigger bore which reduces the space left for cooling passages around the cylinders, some end up just steam running through.

The cylinders are siamesed in the block (they are all connected, not allowing coolant all the way around the outside of the cylinder), due to the large bores. Has nothing to do with the exhaust ports. Exhaust ports are in the same general location on a 262, 265, 267, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350 or 400.

The steam holes are on a 400 because of the siamesed cylinders.

Martin

 

[82355]

You really should put the torque converter back in the transmission, to keep it sealed up.

Martin

 

[82355]

Sorry, just came across this thread, so catching up.

As for lift kit companies. Stay away from Rough Country. Very heavy spring rates. No flex. Tough Country is good bargain brand.

What gears do you have? I assume your transmission/transfer case is a TH350/NP203. I would leave them alone if they were working/not leaking profusely.

A 1" body lift is a great modification. With a 1", you really only need to move the fan shroud. The automatic transmission shifter might need adjusted, but very minimally. It's a threaded rod. The bumpers line up better after a 1" body lift, in my opinion.

Martin

 

[76zimmer]

Also the extra holes in the 400 block/heads are to allow coolant to pass through the block to the heads of the Siamese’d cylinders, (compared to any other OEM SBC)
There are no “steam holes”.

 

[82355]

Also the extra holes in the 400 block/heads are to allow coolant to pass through the block to the heads of the Siamese’d cylinders, (compared to any other OEM SBC)
There are no “steam holes”.

Correct, but "steam holes" is a generally accepted colloquialism.

Martin

 

[K85 Octane]

I got 4 "steam whistles" in my 400sb. If everything else is quiet, put your ear to the head while running and you can distinctively hear your ear-skin melting.

 

[Jon52]

Well today I finished the tear down. I don’t feel comfortable with going any further. Next wire wheel the frame for POR15. Clean up and Undercoat the cab. Then begin rebuilding everything starting with leaf springs ball joints tie rod ends sway bar bushings and begin rebuilding everything starting assembly one part at a time. Brakes new lines fuel lines etc then remount cab to body with one inch lift aluminum pucks. Then… Clean freshen up and put it all back better than it was. :-)

 

[K85 Octane]

Absofreakinlutely

 

[Jon52]

I guess I have to call myself a liar. Pulled axles. Now I have completed tear down.

 

[Jon52]

Question to those of you more informed than I. What are these numbers stamped in the frame. My guess is partial vin and the right frame made 1-13-78 driverside made 2-21-77 KSC is a plant designator maybe but what does the 4603.1 mean?

 

[Jon52]

Moderator?!!! Should or could I start a new thread with the actual build efforts?

 

[82355]

Moderator?!!! Should or could I start a new thread with the actual build efforts?

It has already been moved to the build threads.

Do you know what gears you have?

Martin

 

[Jon52]

It has already been moved to the build threads.

Do you know what gears you have?

Martin

No. How do I find out? If I run 35’s and change my cam I should probably know…

 

[82355]

Is the SPID in the glovebox?

You should probably change the gear oil in the axles, so you can check it when you pull the inspection cover.

Martin

 

[sweetk30]

I guess I have to call myself a liar. Pulled axles. Now I have completed tear down.

View attachment 523491

Rabbit hole of CK5.COM here i come

 

[kennyw]

Question to those of you more informed than I. What are these numbers stamped in the frame. My guess is partial vin and the right frame made 1-13-78 driverside made 2-21-77 KSC is a plant designator maybe but what does the 4603.1 mean?

460371 and 460372 may be the part numbers for the frame rails, before they are assembled as a frame. Unfortunately, the parts book doesn't cover it. But the numbers for frame rails are in the general sequence.

 

[kennyw]

460373/460374 are spring hangers on the 1978 K5.


Which makes the frame rails 14014725 / 14014726 by this book.