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GsxrMike's build thread...Frostbite 2011 Pictures are in!

ryoken said:
looks great Mike!

nice to see one done properly instead of just wirewheeled and slathered in paint...

what locker is that?
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Thanks for the reply sir! The locker is a detroit. I almost flipped when I pulled it out of the package it came in because it said E-locker on the side of it. I thought I got a selectable but I didn't. I got the u-joints, master install kit, and the detoit locker from CCOR (classic city offroad). He is a vendor on here. The prices were the lowest I could find and the custumer service was ok. He said he was short handed but always returned my calls or emails same day and my parts arrived in about one week.
 
Well I got my detroit installed tonight thanks to the help from 38377K5. I was super stoked right up until the point that I laid a fat bead of RTV on my pumpkin and then set my brand new DIY4X only to discover the bolt holes don't line up. :mad: After some cursing and throwing chit and wondering how soon I can get a new cover I decided to investigate. After cleaning all of the rtv that I put on the axle I realized that one of my bearing caps was machined crooked and it was interfering with my new cover. :rolleyes: I think I will be able to shave a little off of the cap and a little off of the cover and make it work. :doah:

67496fea.jpg
 
I'd be much more inclined to grind on the diff cover.

Did you keep the bearing caps in the right orientation and on their correct sides?
 
Hmm, I would say the caps are on right. Dana usually mark their caps with a letter stamp. One side would have the stamp vertical and the other horizontal, the stamps are usually at the top of the caps.

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38377k5 said:
I'd be much more inclined to grind on the diff cover.

Did you keep the bearing caps in the right orientation and on their correct sides?
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Yeah the bearing caps were already marked with directional U's. You can kind of see them in the pics. If I were to take anything off of the bearing cap it wouldn't be much. Maybe just rounding off the edge like 1/16 of an inch. I will try the cover first though. Thanks again for all of your help!
 
GsxrMike said:
Yeah the bearing caps were already marked with directional U's. You can kind of see them in the pics. If I were to take anything off of the bearing cap it wouldn't be much. Maybe just rounding off the edge like 1/16 of an inch. I will try the cover first though. Thanks again for all of your help!
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No problem.

Me, myself, I'd feel much more comfortable taking a little off of my WAY overkill diff cover than risking cracking a bearing cap that's practically irreplaceable.

And its much more likely that the diff cover was just made a bit too close to the cap rather than Dana messing up their bearing cap ;)
 
38377k5 said:
No problem.

Me, myself, I'd feel much more comfortable taking a little off of my WAY overkill diff cover than risking cracking a bearing cap that's practically irreplaceable.

And its much more likely that the diff cover was just made a bit too close to the cap rather than Dana messing up their bearing cap ;)
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Well I trust your opinion so I'm not going to touch the bearing cap. As far as the cover vs cap mistake, it could be a combination of both but you can see in the pic that the bearing cap is crooked. Look at the bolt in the top of the pic, it is no where near the center of the cap. You can also see the gap down the side gets smaller as you get toward the top of the pic. The cover was very hard to get all the bolts in with an empty axle so I imagine it is possible the covers aren't made with super strict tolerances.
 
GsxrMike said:
As far as the cover vs cap mistake, it could be a combination of both but you can see in the pic that the bearing cap is crooked.
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My caps had the same problem, but my diff cover was from someone else. I was able to grind enough from the inside of the cover to make it work. Mine was just interfering with some extra weld material near the edge.
 
stan1688 said:
Shiney:D
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I threw down a layer of flat black this morning, it almost looks like a dynatrac now, almost. :haha:

You think I can get it going before frostbite?

I only need to install the 60, order draglink, install draglink, install axles, spindles, hubs, bearings, drive flanges, install transfer case, install rear cover on 14 bolt that I belive is going to blow up next because I have way to much back lash, fill fluids and test drive. Should be a sinch. Oh yeah, I also have to repair my front drive shaft and hope it doens't blow up again. :haha:I've been staying up till about 1:00am everyday to try and get it done in time but it is catching up with me. I am going to try to leave work early today and get the 60 installed so I can order my draglink. I wonder how much it would cost to overnight that thing? Prolly $100+.
 
bp71k5 said:
My caps had the same problem, but my diff cover was from someone else. I was able to grind enough from the inside of the cover to make it work. Mine was just interfering with some extra weld material near the edge.
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Yeah I just took about 1/8" off of the inside of the cover and it clears fine now. I think the cover would have fit fine if the cap was straight but it wasn't so who knows.
 
GsxrMike said:
I threw down a layer of flat black this morning, it almost looks like a dynatrac now, almost. :haha:

You think I can get it going before frostbite?

I only need to install the 60, order draglink, install draglink, install axles, spindles, hubs, bearings, drive flanges, install transfer case, install rear cover on 14 bolt that I belive is going to blow up next because I have way to much back lash, fill fluids and test drive. Should be a sinch. Oh yeah, I also have to repair my front drive shaft and hope it doens't blow up again. :haha:I've been staying up till about 1:00am everyday to try and get it done in time but it is catching up with me. I am going to try to leave work early today and get the 60 installed so I can order my draglink. I wonder how much it would cost to overnight that thing? Prolly $100+.
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I think you can get it done in time. You could have the 60 put back together and installed by tonight or tomorrow latest. Then install the tcase and fix the driveshaft while waiting on the draglink. Get the draglink next week, install and test drive the rest of the week. It's simple... :D

But... that's if everything goes fairly smooth, which we all know doesn't always happen. :o:doah:
 
Well I have great news! I don't have to get a new draglink, the one I have is just short enough with the TRE's run all the way in. It may be a hair to long but I can deal with it.

Now my problem is I don't remember how the brake caliper brackets go on. Does the screw hole go toward the top or the bottom, and do they go on the knuckle before or after the spindle? Thanks!
 
Ok my new hub seals don't fit snug on the spindle, is this normal? Do they just push up against the back of the spindle to seal? I have maybe a 1/16th of an inch gap if I move the seal to one side of the spindle. Figured I would ask because it defeats the purpose of the spring inside of the seal if it isn't touching the spindle.
 
You're talking about the seal by the inner wheel bearing, right? If so, it should fit snuggly around the last step on the spindle. Once assembled that seal will be about a half inch away from the back of the spindle (mounting flange).
 
nvrenuf said:
You're talking about the seal by the inner wheel bearing, right? If so, it should fit snuggly around the last step on the spindle. Once assembled that seal will be about a half inch away from the back of the spindle (mounting flange).
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Yeah thats the one I am talking about but it looks like they used to ride against the back of the spindle. I will run down and snap some pics. BRB
 
Here are a couple of pics.

This one you can see the back edge of the spindle where it is shinny. If the seal rides against this is should seal but it seems like it should ride where I am measuring.

63a702c0.jpg


This one I am putting almost no pressure outward on the seal and you can see the differance in size.

ab0add48.jpg


????????? :confused:
 
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