CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

"Hardcore" 89 (Black and Blue). IT RUNS, DRIVES, AND STOPS. BUILD ON HOLD

Sliding the 60 under the springs.

IMG_3925.jpg


IMG_3927.jpg


IMG_3928.jpg


Superlift U-bolt kit and Kerts spring plates.

IMG_3929.jpg


IMG_3930.jpg


IMG_3931.jpg


Ahh looks good now we are getting somewhere.

New Kingpins and lower bearing/race installed.

IMG_3942.jpg


Nice clean knuckles.

IMG_3943.jpg


IMG_3946.jpg


Both sides on and Beefy Sky steering arm installed on the pass side.

IMG_3981.jpg


I used this trick on my 10 b that helps with pushing crud into the diff when changing a shaft on the trail. I got some 1.75" ID PVC pipe and cut it in half length wise to keep in the tubes. The when you go to slide in the spare shaft assembly you just need to clean the PVC up to slide it in on. Works like a charm.

IMG_3984.jpg


IMG_3985.jpg


IMG_3986.jpg


Next are the rest of the shafts, spindles, brakes, hub/rotor, and the locking hubs.
 
but if theres a single tree in my path,for my bodys sake, its coming down if i have no other options. some people may get mad but, i like my body lines...

Your option is to turn around or back the hell outta there. Taking trees down to save your "body lines" is flat STUPID:screwy:.


Nice work on your build!
 
Shafts with spicer joints. I painted the shafts flat black and a cast coat aluminum color on the yokes for a nice contrast inside the knuckles.

IMG_3977.jpg


IMG_3978.jpg


Installed

IMG_3988.jpg


Spindle installed with caliper bracket.

IMG_3989.jpg


Hubs and rotors on and bearing preload set. New inner and outer bearings and new rotors and wheel studs.

IMG_3992.jpg


Finishing up with the Spicer hubs. These could use new dials, but work fine the way they are.

IMG_4015.jpg


IMG_4004.jpg



I just wanted to throw a plug out there for Highhonda on Pirate 4x4. I bought all of my rebuild stuff for this dana 60 rebuild from him. Spindle rebuild kit, Kingpin kit, wheel bearings, axle slingers and all the seals. Killer prices especially on the Timken wheel bearings were way cheaper than any auto parts store and free shipping on everything too!!


On to the brakes. I am not gonna get into detail since there is a tech article on the home page of CK5. I had to grind of course for my 15" wheels. I will tell you it wasn't fun, and will rpobably buy bigger wheels when I get new tires as I really don't want to do it all again when the calipers need to be replaced:wink1:

I just estimated by looking at the calipers on my V3500 and made a line grind from.

IMG_4048.jpg


Some time a few beers and a couple grinding wheels later....

IMG_4050.jpg


It took a few rounds of test fitting the tire and taking down high spots, but you get the point.

Primed

IMG_4051.jpg


Painted and installed :D

IMG_4078.jpg



Got the carrier installed and caps torqued. Threw on some ultra copper RTV and shiny blue cover. (soon to be replaced with a Razrback) and called it done! :D

2b717fec.jpg


044b4181.jpg



I did some measuring and I was able to use my Sky draglink and tie rod from my 10b. I did have to trim them a little and trim the TRE about an inch, but they are almost all the way threaded in so strength should be fine. Set the toe in to about 1/8 and called it good.

Painted up D/L and Rock Rod

IMG_4016.jpg


IMG_4017.jpg
 
Pulled it out of the garage and hosed all the dust and crap off of it from being in the garage for so long.

DSCN0519.jpg


DSCN0522.jpg


Next to my crew cab:wink1:

DSCN0527.jpg



Ended up sitting a little low in the front so I did throw some zero rates in to level it out. Didn't take any pics though. Prettt yaight forward. Did have to replace the studs on the pass side diff with some lger grade bolts though after the zero rates.


Now I had been planning all along to re-gear my 14B with a detroit to 4.56, but couldn't find a deal on thick gears. Ended up finding a whole 4.56 axle from a CUCV KennyW was parting out so I picked that up and avoided setting up new gears :D

Next phase will be the cleaning up of and adding my disc brakes to the new 14B along with Kerts perches and welding up the tubes in preparation for the anti wrap bar. Also the shackles from DIY with the 56's and Echobit flip.
 
Way cool Brian! You do some really good work. Just out of curiousity, how long did it take you and about how much did it all cost? Need to know so I can multiply by 15 to figure out how long something like that would take me lol

Again, very nice job. That's a sweet looking ride there.

Warren
 
MTBlazer89, that is a great looking rig. I saw it a few times back in July, I was out there in oak harbor visiting my best friend that just moved up there from Colorado. He lives just around the corner from you. He is working at Widbey Island naval air station and is a battalian chief for the fire dept. Well just thought I would say good work on the rig
 
Oh thats cool! Yeah for awhile after I moved up here it just sat in front of my house. I would turn it around once a week so the neighbors knew it was mobile:wink1:
 
Way cool Brian! You do some really good work. Just out of curiousity, how long did it take you and about how much did it all cost? Need to know so I can multiply by 15 to figure out how long something like that would take me lol

Again, very nice job. That's a sweet looking ride there.

Warren

Thanks man :wink1:

How long did all of the above take me? Its been years, but the 52" springs and Dana 60 rebuild I have been working on all summer, but mainly so long casue i run out of money and have to stop LOL. The 52's 56's rebuild both axles actual work time is probably a couple weeks. between work kids and the wife it gets drug out a bit.

I have no idea total what I have into my truck. Its not a ton cause I have a lot of stuff i got for pretty cheap.

My first 14B was 50 plus 100 for the locker and gears and normal rebuild parts were extra.

My 10b was $75 plus all the rebuild parts, spare shafts and a few hundred for crossover

My 60 was $400 plus 400 and something for all the rebuild stuff

My second 14b was 300 locked with gears plus normal rebuild stuff and new perches and shock mounts.

driveshafts a couple hundred

springs were all cheap just new bushings and some paint

I do all of the work myself and build what I need, but it all adds up fast.

Will try and update this tonight with the 14 bolt rebuild and 56" spring install.
 
Ok time for an update.

New 14B and 56's in the rear.

I got this 14B from kennyW to match my 4.56 front. Its from an 84ish CUCV so a Detroit is inside :D

Drums off. Axle is in good shape internally. Just been sitting in the elements for awhile. Nothing a little wire wheel and some elbow grease won't fix.

IMG_4082.jpg


Cleaned up a bit and perches and shock mounts removed.

IMG_4094.jpg


Shaved to match the DIY cover.

IMG_4105.jpg


IMG_4106.jpg


IMG_4107.jpg


IMG_4108.jpg


IMG_4109.jpg


I know i could have taken it down a little farther, but I just rounded the edge so it doesn't catch and called it good.


Got the pinion angle set and tacked on new perches. Then pulled the axle again and welded them up all the way along with fully welding the tubes to the diff.

IMG_4112.jpg


IMG_4113.jpg



Got it all rust free again then shot some primer and some new flat black paint.

IMG_4119.jpg


IMG_4126.jpg


Razrback cover all cleaned and painted :D

IMG_4123.jpg


Az-Kickin Off road disc brackets all cleaned up and painted.

IMG_4115.jpg


Shackles painted

IMG_4116.jpg


Got some U-bolts at Parts Plus in town here. $9.99 each so not too bad. Many different lengths available.

IMG_4131.jpg



Shackles hung with greasable bolts and poly bushings.

IMG_4127.jpg


IMG_4128.jpg


14B Install up next
 
Rollin the 14 bolt under the springs.

IMG_4130.jpg


Most of the vehicle weight sitting on the springs. Shackle angle isn't too bad.

IMG_4132.jpg


Brake brackets bolted on.

IMG_4137.jpg


My rear calipers have been on for awhile and I noticed the busings and small rubber seals were pretty sorry looking. I dug in the catalog at napa and found the rebuilt kits.

IMG_4138.jpg


IMG_4142.jpg


Got the brake lines on and calipers hooked up.

IMG_4146.jpg


I installed the longer Napa line from the parts numbers thread, but it still seemed short. I pulled the hard line off the frame and bent it out over the axle. Secured it with an clamp and bent it down some. Now I should have plenty of length.

IMG_4148.jpg


Cover on and sealed up.

IMG_4149.jpg


Now I know my shocks are too long in the rear, but ti will work for now. I have about 5" of uptravel before i run out of shock. I'll have to flex it too see what my springs look like in that area. Later on I plan on running the shocks up through the floor to a tower. I don't want to inboard them as this thing rolls enough as it is and that won't help any.

Got my shocks on

IMG_4156.jpg


Got the driveshafts cleaned up with new joints and paint.

IMG_4136.jpg


Installed

IMG_4158.jpg


Moved my T-case back up to the frame and my angles are perfect. Pinion is about 1.5* down from the shaft. Hopefully no more vibes :D
 
Later on I plan on running the shocks up through the floor to a tower. I don't want to inboard them as this thing rolls enough as it is and that won't help any.

I'm thinking about inboarding my rear shocks, but I really don't want a whole lot more body roll. I've never heard anybody complain of this. Is it pretty common?
 
What happened to the yellow?

Got rid of that awhile back. Too hard to touch up all the different colors, and Yellow is a PITA cause its so light.

I like the blue :wink1:


I'm thinking about inboarding my rear shocks, but I really don't want a whole lot more body roll. I've never heard anybody complain of this. Is it pretty common?

Well it doesn't make it worse its just harder for the shocks to control it as they are in line with that motion. I also bought pretty long shocks and inboarding them at a 45 uses much less travel than if they are vertical. I have always heard its best to mount them as vertical as possible.
 
Very cool build, great job so far! If you haven't done so already, I suggest drilling some drain holes in those DIY spring plates. How's your front shackle angle? Just wondering cause I moved my shackle hanger the exact same way as you and wanted to compare. Keep up the good work
 
It turned out pretty good. About 40 degrees or so. I'll see if I have a pic tomorrow.
 
Very cool build, great job so far! If you haven't done so already, I suggest drilling some drain holes in those DIY spring plates. How's your front shackle angle? Just wondering cause I moved my shackle hanger the exact same way as you and wanted to compare. Keep up the good work


Man took me awhile to get back. Sorry guys. :wink1:

Here is my front shackle angle.

IMG_4162.jpg



Ok with the rear pretty much all done I am back to finish the front.

Long slip front shaft installed.

IMG_4160.jpg


Moved the brake lines below the frame for a bit more length and bolted up the Ford towers. They are set right now with about 7" of up travel and 8" down. We'll see how that works.


IMG_4161.jpg


IMG_4162.jpg


And after that it moves :D:D:D

IMG_4164.jpg


Times to get those tires swapped over.

IMG_4165.jpg


IMG_4167.jpg


IMG_4168.jpg


IMG_4172.jpg


IMG_4174.jpg


IMG_4175.jpg


IMG_4177.jpg


IMG_4178.jpg
 
Looks good in the driveway parked next to the Corolla :D

IMG_4182.jpg


Now to get my winch back on. I knew the mount wouldn't fit after the 52's so I had to trim the sides of the winch box.

Old dirty rusty thing..

IMG_4184.jpg


Winch Removed

IMG_4185.jpg


Cleaned painted and sides trimmed. i lost a mount hole on each side, but that still leaves one bolt on each side and two on top for each side. so still plenty secure.

IMG_4186.jpg


Got it mounted up

IMG_4188.jpg


Got the winch back on and bolted down. :D

IMG_4189.jpg



The other day was nice out and I had my little helper keeping an eye on me.:wink1:

IMG_4088.jpg


Weather is gonna get crappy here soon so I figure I better go topless while I can.

IMG_4201.jpg


IMG_4202.jpg



That brings us to now. I have driven it back and forth to work a couple times. I havent had a chance to move the suspension much, but it feels soft. Could probably use some better shocks, but these will work for now. Traction bar is definetly coming soon. It hops really bad at least when i did a burn out on wet pavement:D

Gonna go out tomorrow and try some light stuff with a buddy that just lifted his Heep. Will post pics from the trip:D
 
Top Bottom