CK5
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Howdiymobile....

Oh yeah, now I see the threads on the end of it.

I don't think that .120 DOM costs much more than that; it's just harder to come by in most areas.

Like you said, though, it's just a bumper. Keep up the good work on your big bad 'burb!
 
I must say, your build has come along way since you first started talking about building this truck.

Looks to be very good, like the trucks stance.

Keep it up.:waytogo:
 
Oh yeah, now I see the threads on the end of it.

I don't think that .120 DOM costs much more than that; it's just harder to come by in most areas.

Like you said, though, it's just a bumper. Keep up the good work on your big bad 'burb!

There aren't really any reasonable suppliers around me, I think we payed around 8 dollars a foot when we did the cage in our race car

This is my last week of high school, it's pretty sad to see it all coming to end. But I should be able to finish my truck in a week or two after I get out

Thanks for the compliments guys
 
My bendix calipers fit

That saved about 150 bucks

I also won 75 bucks at an engineering competition today, I was close to winning 150 but my first design wasn't so good.

Tomorrow I may drive my truck, we'll see
 
My bendix calipers fit

That saved about 150 bucks

I also won 75 bucks at an engineering competition today, I was close to winning 150 but my first design wasn't so good.

Tomorrow I may drive my truck, we'll see

Very cool... what did you engineer for the competition?

(off-topic, I know... but I'm curious)
 
I haven't done anything in almost 3 weeks, it will be another week or two before I do more, schools almost over

It runs now at least, my dad did all the wiring while I was in school.

I did get two new bendix front calipers for 20 bucks plus shipping, after I get them and make sure they work I'll put up the source

I'm making a list of what I need to do to drive it:

-Drill out rear shackle mount holes,. then use 7/16" UNF with lock nuts to bolt it on.
-Cut hole for transfer case shifter
-Bolt torque convert to flywheel
-Run transmission cooling lines
-Fix brakes lines(Braided front and rear lines, plus new hard line running to rear
-Put on rear u bolts
-trim the rest of the fenders
-Install shackles
-Put in new drive shaft(I'll probably have to have it modified)
-get new TRE


It should drive after that stuff

Then I'm going to

-install seats
-Mount shocks
-make sliders
-new draglink
-maybe make an exhaust
-make rear bumper
-Paint roof
-make anti wrap bar
-weld axle tubes
-Trim 14 bolt lip
-install hydro assist
-poser shots

Got these two done today. I ended up using an fittings, because I had like 20 ft of 6 an line sitting around.

It started up and ran no leaks out of the tranny lines either, thats good.

I also mounted the gear select/shifter
 
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Today I'm going to get the front brake lines hooked up and then pull it into our shop and put it on the lift then drill all new holes for my home made shackle flip and bolt it on with 7/16 fine with all metal lock nuts.

Then I'll get the new shackles in the rear and if it sits level I'll leave it, if the front is still high I'm taking the override and one leaf out

I'll try to get some pics too
 
I think I need to get some drive flanges also, one of my hubs is broken. And I just spent the last of my money on new hockey skates

Pics will come tomorrow
 
Thanks



I drilled out my shackle hangers and put in the new bolts and lock nuts today.I also put the longer shackles in today and they are perfect and the rear is like 2" higher. The front needs to come down like 3" still though, I'll do that tomorrow.

Heres full droop, it's the only picture I have, my camera is being gay and I need to return it, the brake line almost isn't long enough

100_0304.jpg
 
did you put in new leaf springs in because I remember them being flat with the weight of the truck on them or do they squish that much :eek1:
 
Is it just me or do the rear tires look alot closer to the front side of the quarter panel then they do the rear?
 
did you put in new leaf springs in because I remember them being flat with the weight of the truck on them or do they squish that much :eek1:

Yeah they are dodge 1/2 ton springs with 52" chevy springs added. The dodges are 60" eye to eye and they have a perfect shackle angle with a 6" shackle in the stock suburban location, they are too soft in stock for though

Is it just me or do the rear tires look alot closer to the front side of the quarter panel then they do the rear?

In full droop they will be, they are centered at ride height

I'll get some pics tomorrow after I lower the front

Edit: and driving around with the really soft springs and the spool rear is really weird, I think I may be able to lift a front tire lol
 
The crap to get it driving is the worst part :(
 
looks like brakeline is being your limiting strap.haha.you may want a longer one.coming along well though.
 
Heres the rear height after the longer shackles

100_0311.jpg


100_0312.jpg


100_0313.jpg


100_0314.jpg
 
I think I want to narrow the front and still do the tube back

Just about 8 inches like this

s_04_03_06_029.jpg
 
I haven't done anything in almost 3 weeks, it will be another week or two before I do more, schools almost over

It runs now at least, my dad did all the wiring while I was in school.

I did get two new bendix front calipers for 20 bucks plus shipping, after I get them and make sure they work I'll put up the source

I'm making a list of what I need to do to drive it:

-Drill out rear shackle mount holes,. then use 7/16" UNF with lock nuts to bolt it on.
-Cut hole for transfer case shifter
-Bolt torque convert to flywheel
-Run transmission cooling lines
-Fix brakes lines(Braided front and rear lines, plus new hard line running to rear
-Put on rear u bolts
-trim the rest of the fenders
-Install shackles

-Put in new drive shaft(I'll probably have to have it modified)
-get new TRE


It should drive after that stuff

Then I'm going to

-install seats
-Mount shocks
-make sliders
-new tie rod
-maybe make an exhaust
-make rear bumper
-Paint roof
-make anti wrap bar
-weld axle tubes
-Trim 14 bolt lip
-install hydro assist
-poser shots

This done

So I need to draw some stuff up for shock mounts, hydro mounts, and maybe some other stuff and then get them cut.

The tie-rod is going to be about 100 bucks also :(

I think I'm gonna go get some bronze paint and return a drill bit that shattered in the first few seconds I used it
 
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