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Howdiymobile....

I'll get some when I go down to work on it

I was always wondering how to cut them before I did them, you can never really find any good pics of it on the inside. It's pretty easy though with a body saw
 
I finally made a rear drive shaft and drove it today, I don't think the carrier bearing will work with a slip yoke in the rear of my 205. I'll have to make another drive shaft

It has death wobble, and no shocks, the ride was bouncy to say the least.

Also why does my truck lean over so far when I turn? I have a spool

I need to paint the front wheels with a white base like the back before spraying the bronze to brighten them up a bit also

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I would think the shocks will take care of the lean....

I think the front of that truck has a better stance/proportions than the back...
 
Thanks, I'm hoping the shocks and hydro assist fix both problems, The ride should be amazing with the soft springs.

The rear is a little low I think a zero rate should fix it. The fenders need to be trimmed a bit also
 
I would think the soft springs and lack of shocks would be the reason for gangsta lean around corners.
 
I'm going to do inboarded rear shocks tomorrow

Hopefully the 4" lift edelbrocks that cost like 5 bucks are long enough, I think it's something like 8" travel

I'm bidding on some 2000 f250 shock mounts so hopefully I can win those and get some 15" cheapo shocks on
 
howdiy said:
I'm the proud new owner of a harbor freight pipe bender

I'll probably make some sliders this weekend. I'll start tomorrow.

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I have a quick question if you don't mind. The bender pictured is item 32888-1VGA (12 ton Hydraulic Pipe Bender), the other 12 ton is item 38024-2VGA (12 ton Horizontal/Vertical Hydraulic Pipe Bender). What is the difference between the two, or why did you choose the the one pictured over the other? They seem very similar, just curious. I've been thinking about getting one too for building a bumper similar to yours.
 
One has a thing that pulls the cylinder down easier, I don't think there is much difference.

They were on sale at the store and they had the one without the spring thing for 90 bucks so I bought it.

It works ok, it's supposed to be better with sch80 pipe, I'll have to get some to try out
 
The last springs I ran under my old K5 were Alcan's. 6" fronts and 2.5" rears with a shackle flip. They were very soft, and in a turn the whole truck would lean over like a linked up monster truck. It was terrible...and I was running Bilstein 5150's.

Shocks aren't gonna help the lean...only stiffening up the spring packs is gonna do that. The best place to add some spring rate is up front. It helps keep the truck stable, helps keep the driveshaft from pulling apart, and keeps the front tires out of the sheetmetal better. Soft springs are also not only soft up and down, but laterally weaker/softer too. I guarantee that's contributing to your death wobble right now.

If I had kept my K5 I was gonna ditch the 'slinky' springs for Tuff Country HD's up front and some 56's in the rear minus the overload. Would have killed the deathwobble too.

Just my 2 cents on super soft springs. Easily the worst thing I ever wasted time and money on in the 12 years I had my K5.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
The last springs I ran under my old K5 were Alcan's. 6" fronts and 2.5" rears with a shackle flip. They were very soft, and in a turn the whole truck would lean over like a linked up monster truck. It was terrible...and I was running Bilstein 5150's.

Shocks aren't gonna help the lean...only stiffening up the spring packs is gonna do that. The best place to add some spring rate is up front. It helps keep the truck stable, helps keep the driveshaft from pulling apart, and keeps the front tires out of the sheetmetal better. Soft springs are also not only soft up and down, but laterally weaker/softer too. I guarantee that's contributing to your death wobble right now.

If I had kept my K5 I was gonna ditch the 'slinky' springs for Tuff Country HD's up front and some 56's in the rear minus the overload. Would have killed the deathwobble too.

Just my 2 cents on super soft springs. Easily the worst thing I ever wasted time and money on in the 12 years I had my K5.

Rene
Click to expand...

Hmmm.... we had a 96 explorer a while back and after a while we put some kyb shocks on it... defenitly helped with roll... thing handle ALOT better after the kyb's. Might be different with our rigs though. Not sure what the suspension setup on the explorer was. I think it had coilovers.
 
Exploders are lighter, and if your sway bar links are broke you will notice a big difference in roll between crappy shocks and good ones like KYB's. They are also t-bars in the front and spring under leafs in the rear(really, really soft leafs at that). I think the difference in the suspension setup may also contribute.

Just changing to a set of Monroe's on the front of my dad's 97 Mountaineer made a huge difference. Still need to replace the sway bar links in the front, but at least the truck doesn't flop around like a slinky, or at least as bad.

I noticed a slight change when putting better shocks on my burb, but to me the roll didn't change so much as the flopping side to side.
 
tRustyK5 said:
The last springs I ran under my old K5 were Alcan's. 6" fronts and 2.5" rears with a shackle flip. They were very soft, and in a turn the whole truck would lean over like a linked up monster truck. It was terrible...and I was running Bilstein 5150's.

Shocks aren't gonna help the lean...only stiffening up the spring packs is gonna do that. The best place to add some spring rate is up front. It helps keep the truck stable, helps keep the driveshaft from pulling apart, and keeps the front tires out of the sheetmetal better. Soft springs are also not only soft up and down, but laterally weaker/softer too. I guarantee that's contributing to your death wobble right now.

If I had kept my K5 I was gonna ditch the 'slinky' springs for Tuff Country HD's up front and some 56's in the rear minus the overload. Would have killed the deathwobble too.

Just my 2 cents on super soft springs. Easily the worst thing I ever wasted time and money on in the 12 years I had my K5.

Rene
Click to expand...

I just remembered that I didn't even tighten the side in the front with the two bolts and one u bolt, I bet that is why it was doing it :doah:

Hopefully the soft springs aren't too bad, I don't really have much of an option on the front, because I welded the hangers on. I could always 4 link down the road

It's not really like a body roll lean though, the truck like binds up and squats down a ton even if I'm turning really slow.
 
Yeah I guess the soft springs make it more noticeable


Anyways, I have some of those 4" lift edelbrock shocks from summit and they are about 8" travel, will these be long enough for inboarded shocks

EDIT: I found some other shocks that will work fine
 
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tRustyK5 said:
The last springs I ran under my old K5 were Alcan's. 6" fronts and 2.5" rears with a shackle flip. They were very soft, and in a turn the whole truck would lean over like a linked up monster truck. It was terrible...and I was running Bilstein 5150's.

Shocks aren't gonna help the lean...only stiffening up the spring packs is gonna do that. The best place to add some spring rate is up front. It helps keep the truck stable, helps keep the driveshaft from pulling apart, and keeps the front tires out of the sheetmetal better. Soft springs are also not only soft up and down, but laterally weaker/softer too. I guarantee that's contributing to your death wobble right now.

If I had kept my K5 I was gonna ditch the 'slinky' springs for Tuff Country HD's up front and some 56's in the rear minus the overload. Would have killed the deathwobble too.

Just my 2 cents on super soft springs. Easily the worst thing I ever wasted time and money on in the 12 years I had my K5.

Rene
Click to expand...

I'm going to add add a leafs now so hopefully it stiffens it up some

They 20" overall length, kinda short but cheaper
 
Inboarded shocks, didn't help with lean. I tried my edelbrock 4" lift shocks but they aren't long enough, 6" would probably work great , but I don't have any

The front shocks aren't in yet though, my f250 towers should be here in the next few days

Inboarding the shocks was really easy, the hardest part was scrapping the undercoat of the frame rail

I also got the material for a square d-shaft. I'll probably do that tomorrow

And my pinion is pointed really far up lol

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Mounted one front shock, it's was like 95* out so I didn't feel like doing the other side

And I took pictures of the inner fender for fabrimcator21

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'

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