CK5
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IH scout 800
- Thread starter big dan
- Start date
Wow, whole lotta nothing useful in that ad.
Not much of an update but I had some pics of progress
One of my parts scouts was factory twin stick
And then I had a rollover in my yard, or I guess its actually a flop
Started pulling parts
This is why I rolled it over, easiest way to get the frame out. On a side note I wish chevy frames were built as strong as a scouts. Fully boxed and few bends
Cut this piece out to replace the one on the good scout. Only part of it that has any real damage is the passenger rear bedside and corner. And if you thought chevy body panels were expensive, a rear corner for a scout is $600 IF you can find one and the replacement bedsides are $1600.
All loaded up
Headed to the scraper. And for another side note, I LOVE the ls engine I installed in my truck. Towed this load (4K lbs) no problem and averaged 14mpg which I know sounds a little high but remember half the trip was unloaded.
And then a couple random shots of my scout just cause I thought it looked good
Truggy is finally completely gone other than the parts I kept for spares and one scout is gone. I still have some junk laying around but for now the wife is happy so I can get back to work on my scout
A guy I work with says he used to have an adapter for a chevy bellhousing to scout transmission and once he finds it I can have it
I also learned that IH v8s weigh 900lbs so swapping in a chevy will drop about 300lbs plus I can move it back a little to shift some of the weight to the rear, should help when I jump it
One of my parts scouts was factory twin stick
And then I had a rollover in my yard, or I guess its actually a flop
Started pulling parts
This is why I rolled it over, easiest way to get the frame out. On a side note I wish chevy frames were built as strong as a scouts. Fully boxed and few bends
Cut this piece out to replace the one on the good scout. Only part of it that has any real damage is the passenger rear bedside and corner. And if you thought chevy body panels were expensive, a rear corner for a scout is $600 IF you can find one and the replacement bedsides are $1600.
All loaded up
Headed to the scraper. And for another side note, I LOVE the ls engine I installed in my truck. Towed this load (4K lbs) no problem and averaged 14mpg which I know sounds a little high but remember half the trip was unloaded.
And then a couple random shots of my scout just cause I thought it looked good
Truggy is finally completely gone other than the parts I kept for spares and one scout is gone. I still have some junk laying around but for now the wife is happy so I can get back to work on my scout
A guy I work with says he used to have an adapter for a chevy bellhousing to scout transmission and once he finds it I can have it
I also learned that IH v8s weigh 900lbs so swapping in a chevy will drop about 300lbs plus I can move it back a little to shift some of the weight to the rear, should help when I jump itMy propane is giving me fits again and I have some questions for those of you familiar.
First of all the problem. Ran good the other day but died in the middle of my driveway. Ive had no reason to mess with it but decided to move it today and it would not start. When I open the valve on the propane tank the air valve diaphragm on the mixer lifts up and the propane sprays out of it.
Here is what I have found out- I took apart the vaporizer, planned on a rebuild anyway. The side that the water goes through is corroded but cleaned up ok and I couldn't find anything wrong. The side that the propane flows through however was full of oil. Don't understand how that could happen as its not connected to any oil source. Best I can figure is that it was in there when I got it?
I looks like engine oil and Im assuming that its caused some of the seals to go bad.
Next I moved to the mixer. Cant find anything noticeably wrong with it other than it too is full of oil. I assume that the vaporizer had oil in it that blew into the mixer, don't see how it could go the other way through the propane vapor line. But the diaphragm looks good so I plan to clean it and put it back together.
My problem seems like it would be an issue with them mixer, since that is where the propane is coming from, but I cant find any issues. Could this be caused by the vaporizer having bad seals or do I need to rebuild my mixer too?
First of all the problem. Ran good the other day but died in the middle of my driveway. Ive had no reason to mess with it but decided to move it today and it would not start. When I open the valve on the propane tank the air valve diaphragm on the mixer lifts up and the propane sprays out of it.
Here is what I have found out- I took apart the vaporizer, planned on a rebuild anyway. The side that the water goes through is corroded but cleaned up ok and I couldn't find anything wrong. The side that the propane flows through however was full of oil. Don't understand how that could happen as its not connected to any oil source. Best I can figure is that it was in there when I got it?
I looks like engine oil and Im assuming that its caused some of the seals to go bad.Next I moved to the mixer. Cant find anything noticeably wrong with it other than it too is full of oil. I assume that the vaporizer had oil in it that blew into the mixer, don't see how it could go the other way through the propane vapor line. But the diaphragm looks good so I plan to clean it and put it back together.
My problem seems like it would be an issue with them mixer, since that is where the propane is coming from, but I cant find any issues. Could this be caused by the vaporizer having bad seals or do I need to rebuild my mixer too?
Oil is from the lpg. clean it out and it will be fine for awhile. It happens for 2 reasons. one the vaporizor should be mounted at a 45 deg angle to help prevent it from settling in the vaporizor and you should limit your thermostat to 160ish to help prevent it dropping out by over heating the lpg. It happens over a LONG time and was more than likely there when you got it. Just clean it out.
In the back of my mind I wondered if the lpg could have been the cause of the oil but couldn't figure out how. I plan to rebuild the vaporizer (it is pretty nasty inside) and put my mixer on an actual 2 barrel holley throttle plate to do away with all the adapters and clean it out. Might see if I can tune the engine to run a little better on the pane.
One last question, if I mount the vaporizer at a 45* angle does the vent go to the bottom or top side? And what about mounting at 90*? Would be super easy to just mount it to the firewall. Thanks again 80' 427, your propane knowledge is very helpful
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One last question, if I mount the vaporizer at a 45* angle does the vent go to the bottom or top side? And what about mounting at 90*? Would be super easy to just mount it to the firewall. Thanks again 80' 427, your propane knowledge is very helpful
.Got my silicone vaporizer rebuild kit today and rebuilt my vaporizer. Also cleaned up my mixer, it already had silicone parts so I left it alone. Fired right up and ran good with no more leaking. Also seems to have cured all my starting issues. I also build up a quick mounting plate to mount it the vaporizer according to 80'427's directions. Now I just need to tune it up and see if I can get a little better fuel mileage. May pick up an adapter to put the mixer on holley 2 barrel throttle plate, a 4 barrel is really too much for this motor.
Also may have found anther scout 800 to buy. A friend of mine called me yesterday and found it at his sister's friend's house. When the guy told my friend he would take $200 for it he said if I didn't buy he was gonna find a way to buy it and trade it to me. I haven't seen it but my friend says it is in better shape then any of the ones I have, missing one fender, needs a new rear corner on driver side and is missing rear axle but otherwise good shape. I have all of those parts. It is a factory v8 and suppose to be 4spd (Im skeptical, weren't many 4spds this body style made) and it runs. The best part is that it is suppose to have a title unlike any of my others. Will be easier to fix up then the current ones I have according to my friend and I trust him.
Hopefully I can pick it up this week sometime and get it going soon. IF it is a 4spd the motor and tranny will probably be pulled soon for my scout. I want the one I fix for my wife to have a fuel injected v6 with auto. Will post some pics when I get it home.
May pick up an adapter to put the mixer on holley 2 barrel throttle plate, a 4 barrel is really too much for this motor.Also may have found anther scout 800 to buy. A friend of mine called me yesterday and found it at his sister's friend's house. When the guy told my friend he would take $200 for it he said if I didn't buy he was gonna find a way to buy it and trade it to me. I haven't seen it but my friend says it is in better shape then any of the ones I have, missing one fender, needs a new rear corner on driver side and is missing rear axle but otherwise good shape. I have all of those parts. It is a factory v8 and suppose to be 4spd (Im skeptical, weren't many 4spds this body style made) and it runs. The best part is that it is suppose to have a title unlike any of my others. Will be easier to fix up then the current ones I have according to my friend and I trust him.
Hopefully I can pick it up this week sometime and get it going soon. IF it is a 4spd the motor and tranny will probably be pulled soon for my scout. I want the one I fix for my wife to have a fuel injected v6 with auto. Will post some pics when I get it home.
The 4bbl vs 2bbl really doesn't count in your case but it would be cleaner with out the adapter and most likely work better. Lpg likes a smaller plug gap like .030 with points and .035 with hei.
The adapters are really my issue. Im running one adapter to mount the mixer on a q-jet throttle plate and then another adapter to choke it down to a 2 barrel pattern. Seems like it would be a lot smoother just going from the 425 to a 2 barrel.
Ive read that a 425 mixer is a bit large for a stock 304 but the next size down (think its a 200 or 225) is too small and the only thing in between is for dual fuel. Since I plan on upgrading engines I think Ill just stick with the 425 and get rid of some adapters.
I also plan on upgrading to electronic ignition, didn't know about the plug gap though. I wouldn't be surprised if the plugs that are in it are factory installed
Ive read that a 425 mixer is a bit large for a stock 304 but the next size down (think its a 200 or 225) is too small and the only thing in between is for dual fuel. Since I plan on upgrading engines I think Ill just stick with the 425 and get rid of some adapters.
I also plan on upgrading to electronic ignition, didn't know about the plug gap though. I wouldn't be surprised if the plugs that are in it are factory installed
Have some more updates finally,
Kicked out the old busted up windshield
Put in a new one cut from uv resistant polycarbonate and put on a new top. Thought this top was in better shape and was going to save it for the good scout but I discovered it actually has lots of rust.
And heres a shot of the rust
Now that I had another top on and a new bulkhead and cant seem to find any rear seats I decided to move my propane tanks up against the bulkhead to make more space and run the liquid line.
Here is the new mounting position and deciding how to run the line
I spent a lot of time trying to decide how to run the propane liquid line. Didn't want it underneath because it could get snagged, smashed or torn on something but I didn't want it in the cab incase it bursts or gets snagged. A friend of mine mentioned running it in pvc but I work with this stuff called liquid tight and while installing an a/c unit last weekend it hit. For those of you that don't know, it is a flexible waterproof and very tough pipe used to run power wire to outdoor equipment, like a/c condensers.
And here is a pic
Here it is poking through the hole in the bed floor
And in the engine compartment almost all the way to the vaporizer
And clamped up high on the tub floor, its hard to tell but it is about 8-10" from the bottom of the frame rail, should be fairly well protected
Bolted a couple ammo boxes on the rear inner fenders for spare part storage
Checked out the suspension and mud tires on a racing wagon
I then got ambitious and took some crappy sun glared pics of 6 lug front with 33s.
Ive been considering swapping to 6lug stuff and running 33s for a couple reasons. 1st I have 6 33" swampers with decent tread and 4 36s that are almost bald, so I would have better tread and some spares. and 2nd because the goal of this rig was smaller and less hardcore. Ive seen a stock jeep with posi rear and 31s (and a talented driver) make it down the majority of the trails I like to run so there is no reason for huge tires, plus parts last longer and tires are cheaper.
Now my dilemma is that it will look goofy with wide axles and small tires, I need them tucked in a little and the 3/4 tons are the only matching set of axles I have. 6 lug hubs will make my front 2 inches narrower and I can narrow an axle by 3" to match a half ton rear but then I have to re-gear a rear end. That's a lot of work just to get narrower and smaller tires, cant decide if its worth it
But in the end, 33s are what I really want to run and Im not sure Ill be happy till I do, and keep in mind the ultimate goal is cheap and very frequent wheeling.
Kicked out the old busted up windshield
Put in a new one cut from uv resistant polycarbonate and put on a new top. Thought this top was in better shape and was going to save it for the good scout but I discovered it actually has lots of rust.
And heres a shot of the rust
Now that I had another top on and a new bulkhead and cant seem to find any rear seats I decided to move my propane tanks up against the bulkhead to make more space and run the liquid line.
Here is the new mounting position and deciding how to run the line
I spent a lot of time trying to decide how to run the propane liquid line. Didn't want it underneath because it could get snagged, smashed or torn on something but I didn't want it in the cab incase it bursts or gets snagged. A friend of mine mentioned running it in pvc but I work with this stuff called liquid tight and while installing an a/c unit last weekend it hit. For those of you that don't know, it is a flexible waterproof and very tough pipe used to run power wire to outdoor equipment, like a/c condensers.
And here is a pic
Here it is poking through the hole in the bed floor
And in the engine compartment almost all the way to the vaporizer
And clamped up high on the tub floor, its hard to tell but it is about 8-10" from the bottom of the frame rail, should be fairly well protected
Bolted a couple ammo boxes on the rear inner fenders for spare part storage
Checked out the suspension and mud tires on a racing wagon
I then got ambitious and took some crappy sun glared pics of 6 lug front with 33s.
Ive been considering swapping to 6lug stuff and running 33s for a couple reasons. 1st I have 6 33" swampers with decent tread and 4 36s that are almost bald, so I would have better tread and some spares. and 2nd because the goal of this rig was smaller and less hardcore. Ive seen a stock jeep with posi rear and 31s (and a talented driver) make it down the majority of the trails I like to run so there is no reason for huge tires, plus parts last longer and tires are cheaper.
Now my dilemma is that it will look goofy with wide axles and small tires, I need them tucked in a little and the 3/4 tons are the only matching set of axles I have. 6 lug hubs will make my front 2 inches narrower and I can narrow an axle by 3" to match a half ton rear but then I have to re-gear a rear end. That's a lot of work just to get narrower and smaller tires, cant decide if its worth it
But in the end, 33s are what I really want to run and Im not sure Ill be happy till I do, and keep in mind the ultimate goal is cheap and very frequent wheeling.
Got quite a bit accomplished today. Robbed the power steering off of an old IH pickup a friend was scrapping so now all I need is a scout II steering gear and I can have power steering
Went by the propane place today to fill a bbq tank and randomly asked the guy if he knew where I could get some forklift tanks, turns out they had a pile of them out back. $80 each with a free fill up Got 2 today and plan on a few more in a couple weeks
Fixed some small odds and ends, broken temp gauge, bad ignition switch, air in brakes. And the biggest accomplishment of all, Franklin County Pd finally got tired of me calling every day for the last 4 weeks to get someone to come verify my vin and they called today and told me to bring a copy of the vin down to the pd and they would sign off on the papers. Now I can send in the state dmv office and finally get a title.
Now it looks like we are going to go on a wheelin trip after dinner. Will be short, mild and cant get on pavement but it will be the scouts first time out. Cant wait to see how it does.
Went by the propane place today to fill a bbq tank and randomly asked the guy if he knew where I could get some forklift tanks, turns out they had a pile of them out back. $80 each with a free fill up
Got 2 today and plan on a few more in a couple weeksFixed some small odds and ends, broken temp gauge, bad ignition switch, air in brakes. And the biggest accomplishment of all, Franklin County Pd finally got tired of me calling every day for the last 4 weeks to get someone to come verify my vin and they called today and told me to bring a copy of the vin down to the pd and they would sign off on the papers. Now I can send in the state dmv office and finally get a title.
Now it looks like we are going to go on a wheelin trip after dinner. Will be short, mild and cant get on pavement but it will be the scouts first time out. Cant wait to see how it does.
Looks like the distributor broke so the scout is spending the night at the local rural fire dept. Gonna go back and drag it home tomorrow I guess. The little piece that the points bolts to is plastic and brittle, broke off and the points wont stay put.
I must say though that the old engine is a tough one. Ran for almost 2 hours and the oil pressure never got above 5 psi, most of the time it was on 0
Probably going to drag it home and swap in a 350/th350 I have in my shed. A new distributor costs more than the parts I need to swap engines and I don't think the old IH engine is going to last much longer.
I must say though that the old engine is a tough one. Ran for almost 2 hours and the oil pressure never got above 5 psi, most of the time it was on 0
Probably going to drag it home and swap in a 350/th350 I have in my shed. A new distributor costs more than the parts I need to swap engines and I don't think the old IH engine is going to last much longer.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Fun!
454Sub
5/8 ton status
I had IIRC a 72 with the 345/stick with a fully removeable hardtop and while it had good power, I hated working on it and the ignition always gave me fits. We were going to go the 350/465 route but some kids thought it would be awesome to use an axe and modify the body panels and top, so we scrapped it instead. They are a unique vehicle and I enjoy seeing them as they arent all that common.
Well after my distributor broke I weighed the pros and cons of various different directions I could take and decided to swap a 350 I had in the scout. The old IH engine was strong and from everything Ive heard last forever but it had almost no oil pressure when warm, needed a $100 distributor, a $100 adapter for the propane mixer, exhaust and weighs roughly the same as a chevy big block with the power of an inline six
For $100 I got some advance adapter motor mounts and swapped an engine that I built and know has less than 40000 miles on it, 4 bolt main, 9.5 compression, aluminum q-jet intake (fits my propane mixer), and headers with a bolt on exhaust that will fit the scout, plus it weights a lot less and takes up a lot less room. Ill feel much more comfortable on backwoods excursions knowing my engine.
And another bonus was that by welding in my own engine mounts I was able move the engine back about 4 inches, could have gone farther with fire wall mods, and lower in the frame. Because of the size difference my new engine is roughly the same height on the bottom and about 10 inches lower on top. This will help balance and lower my cog while making the overall rig several hundred pounds lighter. Unfortunately it makes cutting my hood supports for clearance obsolete but I guess I can weld them back in.
And here's the pic for those that dislike reading my rambling
I have a th350/np208 Ive got to do some work to but Im hoping to get them in this week so I can work on the shifting linkage and have everything going in a couple weeks. If I could get a fixed yoke on the np208 I think my rear driveshaft would still work but I don't think its gonna happen
For $100 I got some advance adapter motor mounts and swapped an engine that I built and know has less than 40000 miles on it, 4 bolt main, 9.5 compression, aluminum q-jet intake (fits my propane mixer), and headers with a bolt on exhaust that will fit the scout, plus it weights a lot less and takes up a lot less room. Ill feel much more comfortable on backwoods excursions knowing my engine.
And another bonus was that by welding in my own engine mounts I was able move the engine back about 4 inches, could have gone farther with fire wall mods, and lower in the frame. Because of the size difference my new engine is roughly the same height on the bottom and about 10 inches lower on top
. This will help balance and lower my cog while making the overall rig several hundred pounds lighter. Unfortunately it makes cutting my hood supports for clearance obsolete but I guess I can weld them back in.And here's the pic for those that dislike reading my rambling
I have a th350/np208 Ive got to do some work to but Im hoping to get them in this week so I can work on the shifting linkage and have everything going in a couple weeks. If I could get a fixed yoke on the np208 I think my rear driveshaft would still work but I don't think its gonna happen
That picture makes it look like its sitting on the ground. Nice upgrade.
Thanks, it does sit low but not quite on the ground. I have about 2" clearance between the drag link and the harmonic balancer, probably going to have to run a bent drag link. Kind of wish I wasn't such a lazy a$$ and would have cut the firewall and moved it back a little farther. Kind of hoping that one day it might fly
Anyway, now its basically a chevy with a different body which is what Im used to, and have extra parts for, so maybe it fits in the forum a little better.
