CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Jimmy rebuild thread
- Thread starter ktmoutfront
- Start date
Subscribed 
Blew the front gears out getting the Jimmy off of Steel Bender in Moab. Ordered new gears and install kit from Summit Wednesday afternoon. They showed up at 1pm today.
New ring and pinion, gears, seals and ball joints are on the schedule for this weekend.
New ring and pinion, gears, seals and ball joints are on the schedule for this weekend.
Been working on the new front housing with a full width truss. All of the link and bypass shock mounts are done. I am rotating the bottom shock mounts 90 degrees because of the articulation. he original design was for go fast with the end links running front to back. I have turned them so there will not be any binding at full stuff and droop. The problem is, the front shock bolts will hit the tie rod and drop about 30 percent of my steering. That is no Bueno. So I looked into raising the bottom of the shock 1.5 inches. With that, the shocks will bottom out on up stroke. I loose that total in stroke.
Not sure where to go from here.
Not sure where to go from here.
Thought about it.......................................
Not really.
And with seeing all of the whining about clearances with leaf springs, I doubt it would help.
Rotate the shock mounts back to previous location and use spacers to allow for articulation?
Can you change the upper mount to match the 1.5" change at the other end?
Need more pics.
Can you change the upper mount to match the 1.5" change at the other end?
Need more pics.
Walked away and fixed my blasting cabinet with new nozzle and seals.
Went back and started over with measuring and full scale layout.
The tie rod has been hitting the shock bracket since I originally built the truck. Limited the right turn radius by a small amount. Taking each measurement and transferring it to graph paper old school helped. I was trying to go straight to cardboard for templates. I was measuring from the axle tube with a small square. Turns out, a small plumb-bob works better for getting it fine tuned. I know it should work and I should have more clearance. Yep. I was laying the shock diameter out from the axle tube, not the truss. I have another 1/4" of clearance to the tie rod now.
Some times, you have to walk away and start over to see the big picture to make the fine details work.
Went back and started over with measuring and full scale layout.
The tie rod has been hitting the shock bracket since I originally built the truck. Limited the right turn radius by a small amount. Taking each measurement and transferring it to graph paper old school helped. I was trying to go straight to cardboard for templates. I was measuring from the axle tube with a small square. Turns out, a small plumb-bob works better for getting it fine tuned. I know it should work and I should have more clearance. Yep. I was laying the shock diameter out from the axle tube, not the truss. I have another 1/4" of clearance to the tie rod now.
Some times, you have to walk away and start over to see the big picture to make the fine details work.
Last edited:
Sometimes I use my sign design program like that. Especially helps with figuring out angles and lengths.
Slide rule, what is that?
This is where I am.
This is where I am.
10 bolt truss, link and shock brackets about done.
Still have the limit strap mounts and the plates for the bump stops to strike.
Nah. Only 15 pounds heavier than before. If I take a good dump before wheeling, it will compensate.
Housing finally done. Not working for a couple of days has been nice.
I like it, would like to build a truss on my axle. Other then clearance any issue going below the axle tube? I believe going on top as you force down it would put pressure going up?
